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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
can anyone recommend a pump for my sump? im looking for quietness reliability and it is for a tank around 115 gal. im looking for around 5-7x turnover rate(so around 1000 gal/hr). im a dummy when it comes to head loss and pressure and stuff like that so i need some help with all of this.
i have been reading till i am blue in the face

im going to be plumbing the return line/lines that splits from 1 line into 2 from the pump to the tank at the back of the tank on the bottom on both ends of the tank if possible and use ball socket joints to direct flow around the tank. each input to the tank will get split into two ball socket arms to push the water into the tank in 4 areas to get good flow.

someone help me will this work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
this is what im thinking...
external overflow and heres a pic of the sump


green is draining flow from the tank gray is the return to the tank

from the two gray lines on the inside of the tank there will be the loc-line ball sockets with the y adapter to split each of the inputs one more time to make four spouts for water to come out of inside the tank
 

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this is what im thinking...
external overflow and heres a pic of the sump


green is draining flow from the tank gray is the return to the tank

from the two gray lines on the inside of the tank there will be the loc-line ball sockets with the y adapter to split each of the inputs one more time to make four spouts for water to come out of inside the tank
In that configuration a pump failure (which will happen some day) will flood your house. It would be better to come from the top with your return lines, and have a small hole (1/8 or so) drilled near the top of the tank. Then bring the returns back down to the bottom.

If you are dead set on that type of setup, you should use canisters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
and i am also trying to avoid a canister because the only canister i was thinking about is an eheim 2180 and the price just seems high when i can do this instead
 

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are check valves not very reliable? even if it is from something like swagelok?
more reliable than no check valve at all, youll thank us when your floor doesn't flood, I would personally go with an iwaki pump, they are quiet, extremely reliable and does not leech heat into the water like mag drives do. blue line is also another good brand
 

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Don't short your hardware setting up the system. With external overflows I would include a float switch for safety on the pump power also in case the sump runs dry starving the pump. Either way glad to see another sumper on the forum. :proud: I used a little giant that was stated to be quiet (not) but am happy with the flow results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok a little more modding here is what the plan is starting to look like so i can break syphon if the pump does go out.

at the top of the gray tubes that are above the water line im going to put a john guest fitting with a ro tube that goes just below the water line that way when the water level drops it can let air in and break the syphon then gravity does its job and stops the flow since its above the water line
this is going to be along with a couple check valves on the downslope tubes to the holes at the bottom of the tank to allow the middle tube to buy a couple seconds to empty out vertical tube

anyone that can help me let me know if this is going to work....
going ahead with plans tomorrow


 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
got it all hooked up. I bought a poseidon ps4 pump for this and it seems like i do not have a very strong current running through my 4 returns. Is this because i split the single return into 4 separate loc line returns or from something else?
 

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got it all hooked up. I bought a poseidon ps4 pump for this and it seems like i do not have a very strong current running through my 4 returns. Is this because i split the single return into 4 separate loc line returns or from something else?
Nah, I think you got less pump than you said you wanted in your first post. The mag drive 12 I recommended would do 1080 at 6', the PS4 would do the same at 3'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well im confused now cause i used a head loss calculator and this is what came out
Total losses are 10.2 feet of head pressure, or 4.41 PSI. with a flow rate of 1092 GPH. Process took 133 iterations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well im confused now cause i used a head loss calculator and this is what came out
Total losses are 10.2 feet of head pressure, or 4.41 PSI. with a flow rate of 1092 GPH. Process took 133 iterations.

am i missing something here or does this mean 1092 gph is going to be flowing to the tank?
 

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well im confused now cause i used a head loss calculator and this is what came out
Total losses are 10.2 feet of head pressure, or 4.41 PSI. with a flow rate of 1092 GPH. Process took 133 iterations.

am i missing something here or does this mean 1092 gph is going to be flowing to the tank?
What calculator did you use? If you send me a link I'll check it out on this pc and see if I get the same thing. I was just going off of a product description.
 

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I used this pump head calculator:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/5/aafeature2

I got a pump chart here:
http://akamai.f3images.com/IMD/UserManuals/CP7117.pdf

I plugged in these numbers:
.75" pipe
6 vertical feet
2 90° elbows
1 union
4 pipe exits
1 entrance

My results are:
Head Pressure (ft loss) 12.72
Head Pressure (psi) 5.5
Total Flow Rate (gph) 743.92
Exit velocity per exit (ft/sec) 1.86

My coefficients from the pump chart are
a=-.0071
b=.1217
c=-1.0021
d=20.063

When I put in 1.5 inch pipe, I get 1000 gph.
 
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