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The longer the CO2 tubing is, and the larger it is in diameter, the more air is in it when you start up, so the longer it takes for the 2-4 bbs of CO2 to finally get all of that air out. That's the only disadvantage I can see. Actually, the incoming CO2 just mixes in with the air, so for some time you are bubbling an air/CO2 mix into the tank. I haven't tried to figure out how long it should take for that mix to be 90% CO2, but it could be quite awhile with a long, large diameter plumbing run.
 

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Sound great to me. Make sure you get a quality brass or stainless steel check valve mounted down on your regulator post body assembly in the basement as there could be several feet of water pressure from your aquarium if it ever starts to siphon down.

Up by your tank, use an inline needle valve and bubble counter (with another good quality check valve above them) to fine tune the flow rates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am sure it isnt a problem, I guess my only question would be WHY?
To allow more room in the cabinet for fertilizer dosing containers with a 3 position dosing pump setup.Plus the regulator hangs off the co2 tank and I want to avoid bumping into it while removing the canister filter for cleaning.
 

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Sound great to me. Make sure you get a quality brass or stainless steel check valve mounted down on your regulator post body assembly in the basement as there could be several feet of water pressure from your aquarium if it ever starts to siphon down.
This is something I skipped but second this. I don't have rig under my stand but it's close to the tank, in some shelving that makes it not stand out. I still have 2 check valves, as well as a bubble counter made out of a check valve. The more the better, especially in this situation. Have a backup in your line, and another back up at home.
 

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