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Regulator Selection

4K views 43 replies 10 participants last post by  alaskajeff 
#1 ·
So my milwaukee regulator failed on me, I think the solenoid died. Anyone have any suggestions for a good regulator under 100$ other than a milwaukee one?
Thanks,
Tyler
 
#2 · (Edited)
I suppose it depends on your definition of good ....I have an Aquatek that I bought on Ebay for less than 100. I have been using it since October of last year and so far so good. The needle valve was a bit tricky at first but I believe its fine now.

I am in the process of looking for a good body and building my own. Not necessarily cheaper but I will come out with a better product. If you want something good that is already built look at some of the regulators they sell on GLA, particularly the ones with the Smith bodies. They are not cheap but from the research I have been doing they sell a nice product at a fair price. You would have a hard time building one of the better units for what they are selling them for. For me its not just about money; its learning something new and understanding my equipment better.
 
#14 ·
I admit it looks like heck.. But they all look to be old O2 regulators.. In the proper range... As to the gauges.. Cheapest replacement part I can think of..
Face it everyone wants SS or at least chrome.. ;););)





no, I don't get a cut............
 
#13 ·
Yeah building one is out of the picture as I dont think im "handy" enough to do that. is replacing the solenoid easy? cause its looks like im doing that or gonna try an aquatek.
Yeah, it's super easy, but as mentioned, you'll only be able to use the Milwaukee solenoid due to the different thread type used by Milwaukee.
 
#15 ·
^ No no, I agree with you, it's a nice source to pick up. These surplus bio-science, whatever sites, do occasionally have good stock.

I just never had the need to buy 10+ regulators, besides how would these guys even ship something like this. It's either

1. Ship the cardboard box and have the regulators cushion by brass metal.
2. Ship the regulators properly and charge the buyer.

Anyways, come to the darkside! You'll love pressurize Co2, Jeff!
 
#19 ·
I just recently purchased a Victor EDGE ESS3. It retails for over your $100.00 price but I jut went to my local welding supply and he ordered me one and it was only $102.00.

The ESS3 is slightly smaller than the ESS4, whitch is what he had in stock.

If you go this rought be carful because some of them are sold with a flow gauge instead of the working presure gauge. The picture is of an ESS4, but it looks just like it only smaller.



LionelC


 
#21 ·
I just recently purchased a Victor EDGE ESS3. It retails for over your $100.00 price but I jut went to my local welding supply and he ordered me one and it was only $102.00.

The ESS3 is slightly smaller than the ESS4, whitch is what he had in stock.

If you go this rought be carful because some of them are sold with a flow gauge instead of the working presure gauge. The picture is of an ESS4, but it looks just like it only smaller.



LionelC


http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewgallery.php?action=viewimg&id=376327

Those are nice regulators, but they're single stage.
http://victortechnologies.com/products/detailProduct.html?prodID=0781-5116
 
#23 ·
#26 ·
you guys are funny...

a victor welding regulator can't precisely holding the steady output pressure,
a victor large flow co2 regulator with the cold/frost/heat exchange (heat/cold sink) outer body, (this thing will clog for our application)
and a flow valve mainly dealing with the (large) flow rate instead of the steady output pressure...
 
#33 ·
I dont want to hijack this thread, but I think that this regulator is a good option at a lo cost while buying new. At least when you buy new you know what you are getting.

I also like th compact desighn of the regulator.

Attached are a few pictures of how I set up my CO2. Please be kind as not everyone has a perfect looking system and mine may not be a "sexy" as most you see on here, but it works and for the most part it is not seen.

The first picture is of the compresion fitting I used to connect CO2 hose. It is the hose that GLA sells. This was a good way to convert tubing to a NPT thread.








 
#34 ·
I dont want to hijack this thread, but I think that this regulator is a good option at a lo cost while buying new. At least when you buy new you know what you are getting.

I also like th compact desighn of the regulator.

Attached are a few pictures of how I set up my CO2. Please be kind as not everyone has a perfect looking system and mine may not be a "sexy" as most you see on here, but it works and for the most part it is not seen.

The first picture is of the compresion fitting I used to connect CO2 hose. It is the hose that GLA sells. This was a good way to convert tubing to a NPT thread.








What parts did you use inside the cabinet ? It looks like a Fabco needle valve and Solenoid. What parts did you get to hook it all together ? Did you have to order most of it or could you find it local.
 
#35 ·
It is the fabco needle valve. I purchased that from a form member. The soleniod and buble counter I found with and old Milwaukee CO2 set up that had a busted regulator. I got those items off ebay for a steal since the regulator was bad. The tubing as I said was from GLA along with the inline check valve and their difuser. The tubing to NPT and the other NPT connections I purchased at a local hardware store and the reulator came from a local welding supply.

Regulator was $102.00
Co2 Hose, atomic difuser, and inline check were $50.00
Milwaukee parts (Solenoid and bubble counter) $25.00
Fittings from hardware store $15.00
Fabco Needle Valve $35.00

So for $230.00 I was good to go.

I did not count the 10# CO2 because I converted one of my NO2 bottles over and that did not cost me anything. That is something many people may not know is that most NO2 bottles started their life as CO2 because they have similar preasures and are both liqiuds. You have to change the valve because NO2 uses a diferant valve with a tube that draws liquid from the bottom of the bottle, not gas from the top.

The only reason I mention this is that you can find NO2 bottles cheap sometimes.

LionelC
 
#36 ·
^ Holy cow, he actually did it. You have my respect for taking the initial plunge, I have never seen that model in any build. The gauges look great, I like the way it is mounted to the regulator.

Do you have another needle valve connected to the fabco? So two needle valves ?
 
#37 ·
^ Holy cow, he actually did it. You have my respect for taking the initial plunge, I have never seen that model in any build. The gauges look great, I like the way it is mounted to the regulator.

Do you have another needle valve connected to the fabco? So two needle valves ?

If this continues to work well it defiantly opens up more possibilities. I am holding of anymore regulator tinkering until next winter.
 
#39 ·
I do have two needle valves. The one needle valve is a cheapy that is connected to the bubble counter. It has a small opening that is connected to the bubble counter(about 1/8"). I decided to leave it because I did not have a 1/8" NPT connection with a hole that small. I was worried if I hade a lager hole in that location that it would mess up my bubble count.

I use the fabco for control and the cheaper one only as an on and off but not for adjustment.

LionelC
 
#40 ·
I do have two needle valves. The one needle valve is a cheapy that is connected to the bubble counter. It has a small opening that is connected to the bubble counter(about 1/8"). I decided to leave it because I did not have a 1/8" NPT connection with a hole that small. I was worried if I hade a lager hole in that location that it would mess up my bubble count.

I use the fabco for control and the cheaper one only as an on and off but not for adjustment.

LionelC
I always wondered if that could be done. You answered my question; I have thought about adding a Fabco needle valve down line form my other one and just opening the cheap one up and adjusting with the Fabco ! Now I now it will work !
 
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