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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to figure out what adapter this is on a Victor HPT270. It's not a 320, and obviously not a 580, just trying to figure out if I should swap it out for a 320 stem entirely, or if there is an M -> 320 F adapter that would work with this one.



Anyone have a clue what this is?
 

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Plant Clown
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Not sure what it is. An adapter, if you found one that worked, would make the inlet pretty long. I'd just remove it entirely (pipe wrench works best in my experience, ideally in conjunction with a bench vise) and replace. If you don't mind the color, a brass nipple and nut from Western Enterprises (AirGas is a WE retailer) should cost $10 or less.

That nut likely will slide down the nipple so you can get at the nipple. You may have to smack it on a hard surface or twist it down. Can't see inside, but is there a washer crammed in there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not sure what it is. An adapter, if you found one that worked, would make the inlet pretty long. I'd just remove it entirely (pipe wrench works best in my experience, ideally in conjunction with a bench vise) and replace. If you don't mind the color, a brass nipple and nut from Western Enterprises (AirGas is a WE retailer) should cost $10 or less.

That nut likely will slide down the nipple so you can get at the nipple. You may have to smack it on a hard surface or twist it down. Can't see inside, but is there a washer crammed in there?
No, it's a filter screen and a tapered surface, looks similar to a 580 with a slightly larger hole and screen in the middle.

Anyway, I'll just swap it out, I didn't even think of how long this would end up with an adapter if even one exists. Hopefully this one comes off relatively easy. Last one of these I did was ridiculously difficult to remove.
 

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Trying to figure out what adapter this is on a Victor HPT270. It's not a 320, and obviously not a 580, just trying to figure out if I should swap it out for a 320 stem entirely, or if there is an M -> 320 F adapter that would work with this one.


Anyone have a clue what this is?
CONCOA CGA Connection Reference Chart

Pretty sure it is not a 320.. Just replace it..

err side says Oxygen.. Let me guess..CGA 540...;)

also the reg may not go much past 30 psi.. Victor usually put "double range" gauges on..So 60psi gauge means reg. tops out at 30...ish..maybe
 

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If you have any trouble or lack tools to change it out, I might be able to help as I'm somewhat close. I pick the nipples and nuts up from a local shop to avoid waiting and paying shipping. Give me a PM is it gives you problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
CONCOA CGA Connection Reference Chart

err side says Oxygen.. Let me guess..CGA 540...;)

also the reg may not go much past 30 psi.. Victor usually put "double range" gauges on..So 60psi gauge means reg. tops out at 30...ish..maybe
Facepalm... Pretty obvious now.

I typically only run 10 - 20 on the output so 30 should be fine. Makes the gauge usable as well.

Bump:
If you have any trouble or lack tools to change it out, I might be able to help as I'm somewhat close. I pick the nipples and nuts up from a local shop to avoid waiting and paying shipping. Give me a PM is it gives you problems.
Thanks. I'll let you know. The last one I did was in pretty used shape, so hopefully this goes smoother.

What shop do you go to locally? I couldn't find the right part at granger so I was going to order online but would be easier to get local.
 

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Good enough. Sometimes it feels wrong to ask for this type of help so thought I might offer first?
I was downtown so went with going to a shop on Chicon but if you are in different part of town, I would do a few calls to ask if the closer guys might have them.
CGA320 nut and nipple?
Alamo Welding Supply Co
Welding Supply Store

Welder gear store offering equipment, tools, protective clothing, accessories & repair parts.

613 Chicon St
(512) 476-9400

Open until 5:00 PM
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Do you have any advice for removing the stem? Haven't gone crazy but appears this one is going to be like the last one I did. I have it in a bench vice and a 16" pipe wrench on the stem. It's not slipping at all, but not turning either. Just want to avoid shearing the stem off if I really get on it.

This one has teflon on the threads so I was a bit apprehensive of heating the stem up.
 

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That part seems to be in there pretty good at times. I totally unwrapped one getting it off. But then when about to quit, I had torn it up so bad there was nothing to lose and used a Dremel tool to cut close to all the inside of the nipple out so I could crush the remains.
Normally we would want to heat the outer fitting to make it expand but that isn't always a good idea on regs since we can get too hot for the internals. But in this case, if you have a torch handy, it may break loose if you heat the nipple and then wet it to cool it quick.
Nothing like finding a 15 minute job working over into a few days?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Finally got it. I think it's the tapered threads on the stem that makes these so nasty when they've been on there for a long time. Amazingly I had better luck with a strap wrench on the body and the pipe wrench on the stem.
 

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Finally got it. I think it's the tapered threads on the stem that makes these so nasty when they've been on there for a long time. Amazingly I had better luck with a strap wrench on the body and the pipe wrench on the stem.
The tapered threads are what is the "primary" seal.. Metal to metal...
;)
w/ the right cut NPT threads, sealants are unnecessary (albeit more for the good old days, not cheap Chinese cut threads).
Teflon was initally used as a lubricate and something to allow easier removal of said parts, not to seal. Just so happens it helps..

Glad you got it..
 
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