Regulator Experts -- Question about changing CGA

4049 Views 16 Replies 6 Participants Last post by clang, Jul 23, 2012

SaltyNC

Discussion Starter · Jul 22, 2012

Does anyone know if a CGA 350 connection can be changed for a CGA 320 connection on a GO CYL-20 regulator (stainless)? I can't determine if the nipple is removable.

http://www.goreg.com/products/regulators/cylinder/cyl20/index.htm

Also, does Tefzel seat material play nicely with CO2?

Thanks!

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

Aquaticfan

· #2 · Jul 22, 2012

CGA 350 is for hydrogen or natural gas, The nipple of the inlet should be 1/4 NPT. CGA 320 is of course for Co2. It to also uses a 1/4 NPT thread on the nipple that screws into the regulator body. So it should be interchangeable. Just replace the old nut and nipple thats CGA 350 with a CGA 320 set up.

Tefzel is a Dupont made product. It is very much like Teflon (also a Dupont made product) but with increased strength. Its a plastic base with superior lasting and durability.

Co2 is on the list of stuff that Tefzel will be able to easily be used with.

http://www2.dupont.com/Teflon_Industrial/en_US/assets/downloads/h96532.pdf

The nipple should be removable. Be sure to get a unit that has the correct pressures. High side of 3000 to 4000 psi and a low side of about 50 to 100 working PSI. I personally would use a 100PSI working pressure unit.
Here is a PDF of some info on it.

SaltyNC

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 22, 2012

Thank you for the info, Aquaticfan.

SaltyNC

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jul 22, 2012

I know there were some members selling regulator components, but lately many are getting out of it or are MIA. Is there anyone currently selling things like the mouse solenoids, needle valves, and fittings in stainless?

kevmo911

· #5 · Jul 22, 2012

I have plenty of all of the above, but most metering valves will be a bit heavy to attach to a Mouse solenoid because of the tiny outlet. Also, the mount for a mouse is plated brass, rather than SS (which is fine if you're just going for the look). I believe you can purchase a Burkert in SS, and there are a few other models I've seen on Evilbay, but they often have BSPT (British Standard Pipe, Tapered) threads, which requires a fairly expensive adapter on either side.

clang

· #6 · Jul 22, 2012

You will want to use Teflon tape when you install your new nipple. Some manufacturers use red Loctite for assembly of their nipples, so removing the stock one might be a real bear to do, but it is doable with a long wrench and vice or an impact driver. Be sure to remove any trash when you remove the stock nipple.

That CYL-20 regulator sure is a nice one!

If you want a nice stainless steel needle valve to go with your stainless steel regulator, Ideal has a 54-1-12 needle valve. This is an angle flow needle valve with female 1/8" NPT threads. If you want an inline version, go with a 54-1-11. These valves have a knob handle. If you would like a model with a micrometer handle, use a "V" as the first character in the part number, like V54-1-12. If you want to use the cheaper brass valves, their part number is a 52 instead of a 54.

Here is one place that sells stainless steel Burkert 6011 solenoids. You will want to get a cable plug with either a varister or not. They also sell a brass 6011 solenoid. AquariumPlants.com also sells Burkert solenoids.

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SaltyNC

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jul 22, 2012

Kevm911, I may be contacting you after I get in the regulator. Thanks for the info.

Clang, thank you for the parts and links. A question about red Loctite. I know the Loctite-recommended way to remove fittings with red is to use heat. Do you think if a soldering iron or precision butane torch were applied to the nipple near where it connects to the regulator body, it would soften the Loctite enough to allow it to release without damaging the regulator? I hope this is only a hypothetical question and the inlet is not put on with red Loctite, but I bet I won't get that lucky.

Here is regulator I just bought.

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oldpunk78

· #8 · Jul 22, 2012

SaltyNC said:
Kevm911, I may be contacting you after I get in the regulator. Thanks for the info.

Clang, thank you for the parts and links. A question about red Loctite. I know the Loctite-recommended way to remove fittings with red is to use heat. Do you think if a soldering iron or precision butane torch were applied to the nipple near where it connects to the regulator body, it would soften the Loctite enough to allow it to release without damaging the regulator? I hope this is only a hypothetical question and the inlet is not put on with red Loctite, but I bet I won't get that lucky.

Here is regulator I just bought.

You will not have to deal with things being glued in on that reg. Aslo, just for what it's worth, never - ever apply heat a regulator. You will burn the seals inside and render the unit useless until it's rebuilt. If you ever do find your self in a situation where you can't remove a fitting because you believe it's glued in, an impact driver is your best bet.

SaltyNC

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jul 22, 2012

oldpunk78 said:
You will not have to deal with things being glued in on that reg. Aslo, just for what it's worth, never - ever apply heat a regulator. You will burn the seals inside and render the unit useless until it's rebuilt. If you ever do find your self in a situation where you can't remove a fitting because you believe it's glued in, an impact driver is your best bet.

Whew, thank goodness. That is music to my ears. Thank you for the warning on applying heat. I thought that might be the case. I'm looking forward to building this. It's great that so many of you are willing to help. Thanks so much!

clang

· #10 · Jul 22, 2012

Those stock CGA nipples sure can be very tight. I've hooked two wrenches together for added leverage.

Be careful with your stainless steel regulator. You do not want to booger up your threads. Stainless steel isn't as forgiving as brass is.

That sure is a really sweet looking regulator. Did you get it new?

SaltyNC

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jul 22, 2012

clang said:
Those stock CGA nipples sure can be very tight. I've hooked two wrenches together for added leverage.

Be careful with your stainless steel regulator. You do not want to booger up your threads. Stainless steel isn't as forgiving as brass is.

That sure is a really sweet looking regulator. Did you get it new?

I have some 4ft metal pipe.

Thanks, I bought it on E Bay for $99. It was listed as new. I hope it doesn't have any hidden issues. There are extensive repair kits available if needed. I don't want to go there, though.

clang

· #12 · Jul 22, 2012

That's an excellent deal for a new stainless steel two stage regulator!!

I'm using a SGT 500 regulator. It is somewhat similar to yours.

herns

· #13 · Jul 22, 2012

I use to buy regs with 580 nut and nipple and install them with 320. Later I realized I have to go with troubles removing 580 nipple and buying 320 nut and nipple. It just add the cost to the reg especially s/s which is about $20. So, I decided to get regs that already comes with 320.

SaltyNC

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jul 23, 2012

Clang: That is a good looking regulator, too. Its funny that these things will spend most of their lives under a cabinet, behind a closed door, but yet I still want all stainless. It's a character flaw in me, I'm sure.

Herns: Of course you are right. All I can say in my defense is that I was temporarily dazzled by all the bling on that regulator.

Anyone remember the movie Young Guns? "Mount up, Regulators!"

This will be a fun project.

clang

· #15 · Jul 23, 2012

My aquarium is in my kitchen, beside the table. My 20 lbs CO2 cylinder and regulator assembly is under the table and out of the way. But, it can be viewed if you would squat down a bit.

Here is a build guide for a SGT500. It might be helpful to you. Part numbers are also provided.

The "Young Guns" movie was on the tube last week, but I missed it this time. I've seen it before several times. I remember the regulator quote that you mentioned.

SaltyNC

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jul 23, 2012

Clang, thanks for the link to the build guide. That is very helpful.

clang

· #17 · Jul 23, 2012

You are very welcome, Salty.

That guy has built 2 different SGT500's. I sent you a link to the one with the most info. It is just one way of many to build them.

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