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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a few questions before I proceed with putting my regulator together.

This is the basic connection setup for my post body as it actually fits together. The connections are all Swagelok, Clippard, or SMC. If you see anything wrong with my idea or have a suggestion, please comment.


Concoa 315
1/4 NPT - 10/32 female reducer
10/32 male stud
Clippard Manifold with Mouse Solenoid
Parker H3L
1/8 NPT male stud
1/8 NPT Female Elbow
1/8 NPT SMC piston check valve
Bubble Counter on top of check valve. (Still waiting for it in the mail) I'm not sure how it will connect to the smc check valve yet.

My questions are basic.

1.) Is there anything wrong with putting my post body together, hand tight, without tape/dope just to get an idea of how its going to work out? It feels like the connections get pretty tight about halfway on..

2.) Can I attach my H3L directly to the Clippard Mouse manifold or should I have a check valve, or basic extension between them? I tried it earlier today but it got pretty tight about halfway on and so I backed it out and put it down for now.

3.) Can one install too many check valves? Should I have check valves anywhere in the post body line before the final SMC valve and bubble counter?

4.) What works best? Pipe dope or tape? I understand sometimes you can get stuff inside the regulator on accident so I was thinking of using pipe dope only?

That's all my questions for now, I have a lot more but I won't wear you guys out with them. Thanks for reading, and any comments to help me with my first build!
 

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536 Posts
I have a few questions before I proceed with putting my regulator together.

This is the basic connection setup for my post body as it actually fits together. The connections are all Swagelok, Clippard, or SMC. If you see anything wrong with my idea or have a suggestion, please comment.


Concoa 315
1/4 NPT - 10/32 female reducer
10/32 male stud
Clippard Manifold with Mouse Solenoid
Parker H3L
1/8 NPT male stud
1/8 NPT Female Elbow
1/8 NPT SMC piston check valve
Bubble Counter on top of check valve. (Still waiting for it in the mail) I'm not sure how it will connect to the smc check valve yet.

My questions are basic.

1.) Is there anything wrong with putting my post body together, hand tight, without tape/dope just to get an idea of how its going to work out? It feels like the connections get pretty tight about halfway on..

2.) Can I attach my H3L directly to the Clippard Mouse manifold or should I have a check valve, or basic extension between them? I tried it earlier today but it got pretty tight about halfway on and so I backed it out and put it down for now.

3.) Can one install too many check valves? Should I have check valves anywhere in the post body line before the final SMC valve and bubble counter?

4.) What works best? Pipe dope or tape? I understand sometimes you can get stuff inside the regulator on accident so I was thinking of using pipe dope only?

That's all my questions for now, I have a lot more but I won't wear you guys out with them. Thanks for reading, and any comments to help me with my first build!
1. No problem

2. No problem as long as it fits. Some builds you have to move the LP gauge to get solenoid on without an extension nipple.

3. No. Many people use a high quality one on the post body or shortly after and then another in the bubble counter or shortly after.

4. You can get either inside the regulator. Just be careful whichever you use. Tape is easier for novices and for rework (there usually is lots of rework especially if you haven't built regulators many times before).
 

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1/4 NPT - 10/32 female reducer
10/32 male stud
Clippard Manifold with Mouse Solenoid
You should check out the SMC VDW series solenoids. Your setup will work but you'll have all the weight of your post-body setup hanging off a 10-32 nipple. It'll take nothing at all to snap that right off.

1.) Is there anything wrong with putting my post body together, hand tight, without tape/dope just to get an idea of how its going to work out? It feels like the connections get pretty tight about halfway on..
The teflon tape acts as a lubricant for the threads so that's why it probably feels rough to put it together "dry." It's also 100% normal for fittings to not go all the way together and show some threads when it's all assembled. Don't try forcing it.

2.) Can I attach my H3L directly to the Clippard Mouse manifold or should I have a check valve, or basic extension between them? I tried it earlier today but it got pretty tight about halfway on and so I backed it out and put it down for now.
No need to have a check valve between these two, but I would not attach anything other than a hose barb to a 10-32 fitting like that. With a regular 1/8" NPT port solenoid, it'll be fine with just a nipple between them.

3.) Can one install too many check valves? Should I have check valves anywhere in the post body line before the final SMC valve and bubble counter?
Don't waste your money on a ton of check valves. I like one right after the metering valve, since usually there is a bubble counter connected right after and you don't want the water/mineral oil getting into your system. Right before the reactor/diffuser, I usually have 1-2 more, though usually the crappier disposable plastic type. These are just for backflow/siphon prevention.

4.) What works best? Pipe dope or tape? I understand sometimes you can get stuff inside the regulator on accident so I was thinking of using pipe dope only?
Just use teflon tape. There are people that swear by the dope but I found it can make things a pain to take apart if anything goes wrong. As long as you're not a slob with excess tape and use an appropriate width for each fitting, you shouldn't have pieces in your piping. Make sure to wrap the tape so that tightening the fitting does not unravel the tape.

When you get the metering valve connected, leave it open and blast some CO2 at ~30psi through your system while opening/closing the solenoid. This should dislodge anything caught in there.

Good luck!
 
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