[nbr1rodeoclown]

I have 2 regular Planted Plus 48" lights purchased in late 2014. I've spilled water on, ruined and replaced one power supply thus far. I was super happy with how quickly and easily it was to replace.

Now one of the lights has all its red and white diodes out. It's moon lights still come on and filip flopping the power supplies changes nothing. anyone had this? are my diodes burnt? or is it likely the daylight switch?

thanks,
go blackhawks.

 

[theatermusic87]

I had the solder pad on the moonlight side of my light go bad from corrosion. I simply took the ends off, swapped the power cord to the other end, and bypassed the moonlight switch and was good to go. It's possible you have something similar going on

 

[jeffkrol]

Most of thes lights are series/parallel arrangements so you can't lose all. Switch seems likely.

 

[Leeatl]

If a light fixture is made to be used around water . then it should be sealed against water damage . These kind of stories are what make me vary wary of led lights that I don't need to spend hundreds of dollars on .

 

[jeffkrol]

If a light fixture is made to be used around water . then it should be sealed against water damage . These kind of stories are what make me vary wary of led lights that I don't need to spend hundreds of dollars on .

Most of our LED lighting products are water-resistant (IP67 rated); however, it is often confused with being waterproof (IP68 rated.) Which can beg the question…what’s the difference between the two?
Water resistant, IP67 rated is all most of us need. In most of our LED lighting, a special coating is applied to the LED chips and electronics and an aluminum housing is used for heat dissipation.

Water Resistant Vs. Waterproof | Current-USA

Low voltage, super safe LEDs
Low, 12V DC, IP65 rated LEDs making them super safe for aquarium use.

Now keep in mind this is mostly a conformal coating on the motherboard.. Switches are a bit of a different story.

and like any "paint" failure points can develop...and currently no proof it isn't just a switch mechanical failure.. or even corrosion.. not easy to seal a switch. some do it w/ magnetic switches like I believe Fluval does..Or their apparently annoying touch buttons..
http://www.fluvalaquatics.com/ca/freshwater/aquarium-lighting/series/fresh-and-plant-2/

ALL of these annoyances are why I just build my own...I can only blame myself..

Some companies are better w/ engineering than others.. and usually cost more..

 

[nbr1rodeoclown]

The water damage was on the power supply, not on the light.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9-equipment/580569-replace-power-supply-finnex-planted.html

The light fixture itself has no water damage, just use.

 

[Hoppy]

All LED lights, and all LEDs for that matter, are touted to last 50,000 hours or so, about 17 years. But, they have only been in use as aquarium lights for perhaps 10 years, and that is generous. So, we really don't know how long they last with the typical use of an aquarium light. It is possible that time will tell us that 10,000 hours is more typical, or maybe less. Wouldn't it be the pits if we learn that they typically last 3 year?

 

[jeffkrol]

There solid state devices.. It is like asking how long a transistor lasts.. Well there is the phosphor thing..
IF designed correctly w/ good parts they will last as long as specs..
That said CFL's were said to last like 5 years.. How many went that long?

 

[nbr1rodeoclown]

Solved: it was the switch.