The Planted Tank Forum banner

1 - 20 of 39 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, so i am having difficulties, and i really want to resolve this.

So i just bought myself a 75 gallon tank that i plan on turning into a Discus tank. only problem is that the spot i have, (this is the ONLY workable spot in the house, im 24 and live in a 850 sq ft trailer...) isnt big enough for the tank, and i have no choice but to put 6-8 inches of the stand on my carpet, and the majority of the stand will be on linoleum..

as you may be able to see, i threw some 1/4" plywood down to see if that would level it off, and no dice.

i HAVE to make something work here, i have so much money and so much time invested in this, i REALLY hope you guys can help me here.

here is the location im talking about, and you will see the carpet with the metal rivet..






**Ignore the door by the way, this is a NON functioning door and has no way to access it from outside.**
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
794 Posts
Have you filled the tank temporarily to see what the difference is from end to end. The carpet may compress enough. I have used thin pieces of slate and metal shims to help leveling.

Have a gniess day. -Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i have filled the tank and the difference isnt that badly off, but i noticed the left hand front corner of the tank wasnt sitting on the stand it was hovering a little off the stand which would tell me there was some twisting of some sort? but that may be the stand that i built myself, the plywood isnt completely flush on the top so im going to fix that tonight and tomorrow when i get the new tank i will see if that fixed the twisting.

i would still like this tank to be perfectly level if possible so i can sleep at night not thinking my tank will explode.

this 75G tank ended up having a pinhole leak on the bottom right corner... so im actually buying a brand new 75G tank tomorrow...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,424 Posts
I'd cut that gold trim right where the tank is and remove it, that should level it out a lot more. The carpet will get pressed down by the weight of the tank. If you ever move the tank replacing that trim will be easy and cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
794 Posts
I would place your stand on a level surface to make sure it's not the problem. That pin hole leak was problem the result of the twisting of the tank.

Have a gniess day. -Scott
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
848 Posts
Yea if you remove that threshold,or at least trim it around the tank the weight will level it out. And pinhole leaks can be fixed easy by re sealing. Not as hard as most think,just look up videos.

-Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
If removing the rivet is not an option, you could make a small grove at the bottom of the stand that can go over the rivet. that should level out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,411 Posts
The metal strip is just the part that shows. Under the carpeting there is probably a tack strip that is something like a 1/4 " high. When they stretch the carpet, the tack strip holds it. Cutting that out is not a good idea as it might let the carpeting wrinkle. I would go for shims at the bottom corners of the stand to get both the stand level as well as the corners even height.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
I'd have a piece of MDF cut to size to go under the tank to make sure that the stand itself doesn't twist, and then shim that to level.

Have you been up in the crawlspace underneath this spot to make sure that one of those walls is load-bearing?
+1

Do not rest until the tank is dead on level both before filling and after. Lauraleellbp's answer is the correct one. If the stand is stout enough you might be able to shim it alone, but shims under a fresh flat surface for the stand to rest on is a bulletproof answer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,317 Posts
I live in a studio apartment, so I can understand being pretty space-limited.

Anyways, I think that's just a problematic spot for the tank, as the transition from linoleum-carpet is going to be difficult to work around, as several people pointed out up above.

Probably the best option I could think of for that stand/location/orientation is to use some adjustable feet, but the stand has to be built properly to accommodate them, and it would would concentrate the weight on a really small area, instead of spreading it out.

Since you stated you are going to get a new tank, I'd consider getting one that fits the available space better. It might cost a bit more, but the tank itself is a fairly minor cost considering everything else that goes into a fully setup aquarium.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Can u not pull the tank and stand over towards the wall more? Where the little soccer ball is? The space there looks pretty close to the amount that is on the carpet. Or is the photo misleading?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
so i think my tank is level enough to not worry, its not perfect but not badly off. i dont know if ill get it anymore perfect.


question though, i shaved down all the plywood on the top of the stand, and i put my new tank on there, and still the front left corner hovers off the stand, not nearly as bad as my last tank, but it still hovers, only about the width of a credit card, everywhere else lays flat on the stand....

for peace of mind, could i just jam 2 wood shims tight under the corner so that corner has full support?

will wood shims work for this? im assuming my stand must have a twist or something... its a DIY stand, and it is built like a tank, could probably support the weight of 200 gallons, taking it apart is really not an option as i have so much time and money invested into it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,533 Posts
You mentioned you are in a trailer. Typically the flooring of those units aren't designed to hold that kind of weight. What's your floor like? As others have mentioned, I'd set the stand up somewhere level just to see how it fits, that will let you know if the tank corner should be resting flat on the stand or not. It seems a little sketchy, but what can you do? I've kept 20gal tanks only supported by the two side pieces. Don't know how that correlates to encouragement for your situation though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i looked under my trailer and there is a huge metal beam running directly below the tank, i think im fine.

i will move the stand out to the linoleum tomorrow to see if it sits flush.

if not, will the shims work just fine? like i said the corner isnt hovering very much, only the width of a credit card or so
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts
I would use a full plywood/OSB layer under the tank, say 3/4" at the Vinyl Flooring, and 1/2" or whatever it takes at the carpet. Cut it to the exact depth as the tank, paint the edges black and no one will ever notice. Box stores sell 2x4 sheets, as well as 2x2. You could also try dumpster diving. I've found scraps like that are common on residential jobs. Good luck and let us know how you make it work!

Another idea-
Looks like the only reason it cant sit all the way on the vinyl is because of that vent? You could build a small riser (2" or so), and leave a gap for the air to escape. Just paint it black and no one is the wiser.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have 1/4" plywood under the stand to level it out to that metal strip on the carpet, and the top of the stand has 3/4" ply that I screwed on the top for the tank to sit on.

if I added another sheet of ply on top wouldnt it just take the shape of the one already there?

so if I added 2 shims on that corner of the tank to sit on it wouldnt work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts
I was meaning more to straddle the hump. if the strip is 1/4" high, you could do 1/2", then 1/4" where the carpet is. Carpet still has some density even when compacted. So for example you might have a 1/2"x18"x40" piece on the vinyl section, then a 1/4"x18"x7" piece on the carpeted section, with an inch missing where the transition strip is.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
509 Posts
I own a window company but like most contractors I've worked my way through most stages of construction. Your biggest concern should be whether or not a trailer house floor can carry that amount of water weight without sagging. Once you brace underneath you can worry about final leveling.

I own a large extremely well built home and I still added support beams to carry my 150. Didn't want to, but water is HEAVY and the weight is all in one spot.

MeCasa
 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Top