pvc cement

Nevermind, some Google searching has led me to the gorilla glue brand. I will try it out.

Thanks.

It's food safe.

It's necessary and when cured, it's safe. Use it outside.

Gorilla glue won't bond the pvc parts together like pvc glue.

mistergreen said:

It's necessary and when cured, it's safe. Use it outside.

Gorilla glue won't bond the pvc parts together like pvc glue.

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+1 in a big way.

Gorilla glue needs moisture to bond, and won't adhere to PVC.

I can think of one or two cases where you can get away without it, but the first time the joint works itself loose, you'll be sorry you didn't use PVC cement.

mistergreen said:

It's necessary and when cured, it's safe. Use it outside.

Gorilla glue won't bond the pvc parts together like pvc glue.

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+2 on that.

PVC is a solvent anyway. Not a glue. It literally melts the pvc.

It is non toxic when cured.

1/4" turn whenever possible to distribute the solvent better.

The gorilla glue is just the brand. It is a food safe, no smell alternative to Pvc cement, but is specifically made for Pvc. I am trying to use it now, but am having a hard time taking my mochup apart. I was hoping I would log in to a bunch of folks to tell me not to worry about it to save my hands!

pandacory said:

The gorilla glue is just the brand. It is a food safe, no smell alternative to Pvc cement, but is specifically made for Pvc. I am trying to use it now, but am having a hard time taking my mochup apart. I was hoping I would log in to a bunch of folks to tell me not to worry about it to save my hands!

Click to expand...

ah, there's 'gorilla pvc'. Not gorilla glue.

I had not seen Gorilla PVC so went over to look at it a bit. Pricey little thing! At 8 oz for $9+ and can't be used for anything but PVC so I will be waiting a bit on this one.

My hands and I would love some ideas on how to pull the pvc mock up apart so I can even use the glue.

What difference does it make if it only works on Pvc? Aren't all the parts Pvc anyway?

To take apart PVC that has been test fitted but not glued:
Twist.

You can use any sort of pliers, plumbers wrench or even a stout rubber band wrapped around the pipe to gain a better hold. Do not insert the pliers into a fitting, you could scar it to the point that it will no longer be water tight.

Lets say you have a 90 degree fitting stuck on one piece of pipe. The other part of the 90 has nothing. Here are 3 ways:
1) Insert a foot long or so piece of pipe into the open socket (not too far- don't get this one stuck!) and this will give you a lot more leverage to twist off the stuck side.
2) Hold the pipe with a pipe wrench and grip the 90 with any other sort of pliers, or another plumbers wrench.
3) Wrap the pipe with a stout rubber band (like Broccoli is held together with) so you can hold the pipe better.

To use PVC cement indoors: Work as close to a window as you can and set up a fan so the fumes are blown out the window.

PVC cement is easy to use and cheap, so I would go ahead and cement them even if they feel like they are connected pretty well. In my experience even the tightest PVC fittings can drip.

If you have connections that you need to waterproof but also need to be able to take apart (for cleaning, moving etc) I've used a bit of Teflon tape wrapped around the pipe and then pushed my fittings onto that. Works great.

red hot blue glue ftw!
it stinks but it works

Red Hot Blue Glue falls apart. I have seen it.

I personally use clear medium bodied PVC cement for most projects, but professionally (Landscape installation) we use Grey.

Why grey? Just for the heavier body? Or because it sets slower? All the plumbers and landscape installers I do work for use the clear.

I just use the clear cause it's good for the flex too. You shouldn't use the grey with flex pvc apparently. I've never heard of it failing, but I guess it isn't the right way to do it. I don't do things any way but the right way if I am aware of it.