Purewaterclub RO/DI systems question
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Well, the prices look great!
But I'm curious as to the difference between:
50gpd system ($60): http://www.purewaterclub.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=95&products_id=246
100gpd system ($65): http://www.purewaterclub.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=95&products_id=270
I'm probably missing something in the specs, but everything seems to be the same. Can anybody help?
Question two - any idea of shipping cost? I can't seem to get a definite shipping cost without putting in my cc info ...which I don't like doing.
And question three - are replacement filters easy to come by? They claim that their filters are standard size, just doublechecking.
I'm looking into these because I'd like to set up a couple shrimp tanks - one tiny 2.5g in my preschool classroom, and another low-tech 10g at home. My tap water is apparently not invert-friendly, so I figured I'd get an RO/DI unit and remineralizer. For these purposes, is there a reason to get the 50gpd versus the 100gpd model?
But I'm curious as to the difference between:
50gpd system ($60): http://www.purewaterclub.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=95&products_id=246
100gpd system ($65): http://www.purewaterclub.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=95&products_id=270
I'm probably missing something in the specs, but everything seems to be the same. Can anybody help?
Question two - any idea of shipping cost? I can't seem to get a definite shipping cost without putting in my cc info ...which I don't like doing.
And question three - are replacement filters easy to come by? They claim that their filters are standard size, just doublechecking.
I'm looking into these because I'd like to set up a couple shrimp tanks - one tiny 2.5g in my preschool classroom, and another low-tech 10g at home. My tap water is apparently not invert-friendly, so I figured I'd get an RO/DI unit and remineralizer. For these purposes, is there a reason to get the 50gpd versus the 100gpd model?
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2,709 Posts
Basic difference, since they don't list it? Probably the flow restriction piece.
If you need 50 to 100 gallons of RO water a day, or week even, you need a unit that uses standard -full size- cartridges. The small ones on the links you provided will quickly end up costing more than a complete off the shelf home unit.
With an off the shelf RO system cartridges for standard size units can be purchased anywhere filter components are sold as the manufactures all use the same size filter modules.
For anyone looking at RO, I suggest watching several of the videos at http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/video-category/Instructions
After that you will know a lot more than the filter sales people - most anywhere.
If you need 50 to 100 gallons of RO water a day, or week even, you need a unit that uses standard -full size- cartridges. The small ones on the links you provided will quickly end up costing more than a complete off the shelf home unit.
With an off the shelf RO system cartridges for standard size units can be purchased anywhere filter components are sold as the manufactures all use the same size filter modules.
For anyone looking at RO, I suggest watching several of the videos at http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/video-category/Instructions
After that you will know a lot more than the filter sales people - most anywhere.
Joined
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4,737 Posts
Okay, but why? Just quality? I was thinking I'd start with something small and cheap. Results should be easy enough to measure with a TDS meter and a clock, correct? And it appears that there's actually free shipping. So my thinking is that I'd get a cheap Chinese (Taiwanese, actually) product at a small initial cost, just to check it out. And $65 seems a small price to pay.
I'm leaning towards the Purewaterclub portable unit at the moment, but I'd really like to hear why I shouldn't.
I'm leaning towards the Purewaterclub portable unit at the moment, but I'd really like to hear why I shouldn't.
Joined
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4,737 Posts
I've actually seen a couple of those videos, thanks for the reminder!
I'm thinking I'll need less than 10 gallons a week, including topoffs. Does that change anything?
Of course, If I were to use RO/DI water in my main tanks, I could actually keep some Amanos for extra algae defense ...NO! STOP!
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220 Posts
Ok, I'm fairly new on here, but coming from a saltwater background, I have a spectrapure RO/DI unit. I was looking at the PWC units at first also, and did a lot of asking around on the salt forums...
Basically what it's going to boil down to is efficiency. That will get you to 0 TDS, but it's HOW it does it that matters. Your RO section is going to be the kicker really. A nice spectrapure system will usually get you a solid 98-99% efficiency (rejection) rating out of RO. That means that if your water starts at 375 TDS (like mine) the RO will get you down to about 4 TDS or less, then the DI is what gets you down to 0.
This means everything will last longer, the DI filter won't be working as hard basically... If your RO efficiency is down to... lets say 94% with a lesser quality unit, that puts the TDS at about 22 by the time it hits your DI resin. Doesn't seem like that much of a difference at first, but that's actually making the DI resin work 550% harder! That means replacing it more often.
Also, the cheaper units come with lower quality, more brittle fittings, so you'll find yourself replacing bits more often.
Hope that helps to understand the differences... You'll just be spending more in the long run replacing lower quality resins and membranes, along with low quality parts. That and customer service may not be what you hope for if you have a problem, but spectrapure has been doing it for a LONG time, and their service is great!
-Scott
Basically what it's going to boil down to is efficiency. That will get you to 0 TDS, but it's HOW it does it that matters. Your RO section is going to be the kicker really. A nice spectrapure system will usually get you a solid 98-99% efficiency (rejection) rating out of RO. That means that if your water starts at 375 TDS (like mine) the RO will get you down to about 4 TDS or less, then the DI is what gets you down to 0.
This means everything will last longer, the DI filter won't be working as hard basically... If your RO efficiency is down to... lets say 94% with a lesser quality unit, that puts the TDS at about 22 by the time it hits your DI resin. Doesn't seem like that much of a difference at first, but that's actually making the DI resin work 550% harder! That means replacing it more often.
Also, the cheaper units come with lower quality, more brittle fittings, so you'll find yourself replacing bits more often.
Hope that helps to understand the differences... You'll just be spending more in the long run replacing lower quality resins and membranes, along with low quality parts. That and customer service may not be what you hope for if you have a problem, but spectrapure has been doing it for a LONG time, and their service is great!
-Scott
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