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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so today I took apart my 2026 for the first time to clean, been running about a month or so and the flow meter was down to about half. When I put it all back together and hooked it up I heard water run in for just a couple seconds then stop. I tried priming it with the plunger but nothing would happen, other than I could see air being drivin down the intake tube when I pushed down then going back up above the water line when I released. I fiddled with the dam thing for about a half hour, checking the user manual for possible instructions (which didnt seem to help my situation). Although I like just about everything about it better than my filstars, I have never lost prime on my filstar once since I set it up. But I am wondering maybe if this is due to the turbo twist I have inline? Could this somehow cause it to loose its prime when diconnecting and reconnecting?

I ended up filling the filter up with tap water with a squirt of conditioner, hopefully it worked fast enough and the temp wasnt too far off to kill my bacteria. Anyhow, with it full of water it seemed like the priming pump started working, sort of, and after a little while I was able to get the thing running. Anyone have any ideas here?
 

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I always fill my canister full of water before priming and I think the intention for the primer was to pull water into the hose not fill the canister.
 

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Yes...fill the filter with water...then place the motor (top) back on.

Do this in the kitchen sink :) I usually fill it all the way...pop the top back on and water spills out the side as the o-ring is making the seal after I clamp the top down. Then plug it in and its fine.
 

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Yes...fill the filter with water...then place the motor (top) back on.

Do this in the kitchen sink :) I usually fill it all the way...pop the top back on and water spills out the side as the o-ring is making the seal after I clamp the top down. Then plug it in and its fine.
I've been doing it this way on 2 different 2026s for over a year, without issues.
 

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ALWAYS FILL THE CANISTER WITH WATER BEFORE HOOKING UP AGAIN

:bounce: :bounce: :bounce:

Also, having a turbop twist myself in the loop, I found out that the TT would hold air that needed to be purged by holding it up vertifcally after the hoses where re-connected on the Eheim.

I find that the prime button doesn't help much...

Nick
 

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I fill them all the way to the top also. I use the Eheim Installation sets for both the intake and outlets and I make sure the intakes are filled as well, until full.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have never had to fill a canister before returning to the aquarium, personally this one thing I dont like about the Eheim. I have never had to do this on any of my XP's, plug the hoses into the empty canister, throw the lever, and swoosh it fills up with water. After letting it sit for a couple minutes I just plug it in and it goes.

Are you guys saying that the Pro 2's will never automatically fill themselves, or that this problem is because my turbo twist might not be letting the air come out. On my XP's the air burps out the spray bar as the canister refills itself, and it is on the return line that I have the trubo twist. The reason I really suspect it is because of its position... the hose comes up out of the 2026 and sorta loops back down to the TT, as there isnt enough space in my cabinet to mount the turbo twist completely above the canister with enough room for the hoses not to kink.

So if this filling of the canister in the sink is something I will have to do from now on, how sensative is the bacteria to water temp changes and chloromine? I dont usualy worry about this since I have a semi-auto water change system with a holding tank and heater that dissolves salt (it is brackish) properly and heats the water up before it pumps into the aquarium.
 

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depends i think

I know what you are saying about the siphon still in the hose with the ball valves closed along with gravity feed. most of the time that works for me to but i like to fill with water just to help it, with water in the canister the siphon pushes the air pocket out instead of trying to fill the canister.
 

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I don't fill the cannister before connecting it again. I just make sure to empty the output line before connecting the disconnects so it will siphon from the tank to fill it. Then just plug in and you are away.
 

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If the 2026 is running without any in line adapters it will fill the canister after priming. Course the air locks slow things down. Lately I've been filling it with RO water before hookup.

The fun part is filling the reactor to minimize any air locks in the loop. To make it easy I attached double ball end taps so sections of the plumbing can come out for cleaning. Plug in a hose and bleed out all the air over at the sink before closing the loop for the trip back to the tank.

I had not fully tried to use my solution in this manner till lately but it's cold out here lately. :) I'm less inclined to take everything outside and blow it apart for cleaning on the back porch.

Works like a charm, except for any residual trapped air from connecting the taps. My next solution will have a bleeder valve at the top of the CO2 reactor to remove the last bit of trapped air. I have to be careful not to lead to a disaster though with a two year old on the loose 24/7.
 

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I never have trouble with re-starting the siphon on my 2026. I simply fill the canister with water up to about 3-4" from the top (so it doesn't spill over when the motor assembly is attached). Afterwards, I just plug it in and push the self-priming button on the top of the filter....although I doubt this is even needed. I just like to help it out.
 
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