[Seattle_Aquarist]

Hi @Jtiffin@gmail.com,

First of all welcome to TPT!

I have grown Nymphoides hygrophylla (aka sp 'Taiwan') for eight years and have seen that occur many times in my tanks. Why? Because here in Seattle I have very, very soft water with practically no mineral content to speak of (dKH<1.0; dGH<2.0). What you are seeing it the effect of a lack of available calcium. Nymphoides hygrophylla is great for me because it is usually one of the first plants to show that 'gelatinous' look to the new leaves and let's me know that I need to add more GH Booster. Pick up some Seachem Equilibrium which contains calcium, magnesium, potassium, and a little iron and manganese. Initially add 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons. Thereafter, when you do a water change add 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons of new water added. Those leaves that are already effected will not change but as soon as you start dosing the Seachem Equilibrium you should start seeing any new leaves that emerge looking their normal green.

I. Symptoms appearing first or most severely on new growth (root and shoot tips, new leaves)

A. Terminal bud usually dies. Symptoms on new growth.

2. Necrosis occurs at tip and margin of leaves causing a definite hook at leaf tip.

Calcium is essential for the growth of shoot and root tips (meristems). Growing point dies. Margins of young leaves are scalloped and abnormally green and, due to inhibition of cell wall formation, the leaf tips may be "gelatinous" and stuck together inhibiting leaf unfolding. Stem structure is weak and peduncle collapse or stem topple may occur. Roots are stunted. Downward curl of leaf tips (hooking) occurs near terminal bud. ammonium or magnesium excess may induce a calcium deficiency in plants... calcium deficiency

Differentiating between calcium and boron deficiency symptoms: When calcium is deficient, there is a characteristic hooking of the youngest leaf tips. However, when boron is deficient, the breakdown occurs at the bases of the youngest leaves. Death of the terminal growing points is the final result in both cases.

 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Hi @Triport,

I don't disagree that older leaves dissolve in Nymphaea species and Nymphoides species, that usually happens in my tanks when lower leaves become 'shaded out' by new leaves above them. I actually think that the plants are re-absorbing the nutrients in those older leaves and using them for new growth.

However, in @Jtiffin@gmail.com case it appears that the newer leaves are becoming clear and misshapen (from the leaf unfolding improperly), that is typically a calcium deficiency when it occurs on the newer leaves.

 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Hi @gwarrior1,

I believe I owe you an apology. If it is the new leaves (as they emerge) that show the clear areas then it is a calcium issue as I said. If it is older, existing leaves that sort of dissolve, turn clear, and the stem separates from the plant that is usually do to shading from above; not a calcium issue.

 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Is this amount of light enough or should I run both lights on it?

Hi gwarrior,

It looks like the plants are getting sufficient light, I would likely just stick with one light unless problems occur.

 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Hi @ gwarrior1

I have grown this species continuously since 2010. During this eight year period there were times I was dosing Excel / glut at the standard initial dose + 2X daily dose for the rest of the week with no ill effect to the species. I will say that other species did not respond well to that dosing level but the Nymphoides hydrophylla (aka sp. 'Taiwan') was not one of them. If you are having trouble with the species I suspect it is something other than Excel.

 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

I don't know if this post is too old for a reply but here goes. I have 2 stunning taiwan lily's in my cacatuoides tank and it occasionally drops a leaf or two but otherwise it's awesome. Can I remove 1 whole plant and after rinsing move it to another tank without harming it. My tanks are all high tech but I know taiwan lily's are sensitive. View attachment 1071216 View attachment 1071216

Hi @Shazmo2013

Yes you can more Nymphoides hydrophylla from one tank to another. When I do that I usually remove about 2/3 of the leaves, trim the roots to about 3" long, and plant. Similar water parameters are a plus. Hope this helps! -Roy

 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Thanks Roy. I'll give it a go. I move plants regularly, using my most overgrown tank as a plant supply but have never moved something so delicate. Will

@Shazmo2013 , you are correct that Nymphoides hydrophylla is 'delicate' - especially the leaves. That is why historically you seldom saw the species offered in LFS because it didn't ship well and the leaves 'melted' a lot. However, the crown and root stock is fairly hardy. I have removed all the leaves from overgrown plants, trimmed the roots, planted the crown, and the plant came back and flourished. Lately I have seen tissue cultures of the species so hopefully more folks will have the opportunity to acquire and enjoy the species. Hope this helps! -Roy