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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my new CO2 setup in anticapation for my new tank. I currently put it on my "old" tank to give it a try. I've only usd DIY CO2 in the past, so I'm rather new to this. Ex paintball junkie though.

I've noticed that over the course of the day that I have to change the valving due to a drop in bubble rate. Is that normal, because I didn't think that little amout of flow would affect the bottle that much. The high side pressure remains constant (The gauge doesn't drop, so no leaks there). The low side gauge doesn't even register (but the gauge does work) at 1 bps. I just have it running into a "ladder".

Reg. setup that Dr. Foster sells w/ 5lb bottle (Only filled to 3lbs though. Might that be an issue?)

Any thoughts?


I can't WAIT until I'm done with my new tank :)
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/28182-start-my-130ish-gallon-corner-setup.html
I've have to start a new thread because so much has happened since my last post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm at job #2 right now and can't recal the model number (It's a Milwaukee of somesort..... same one that Dr. Foster Smith sells. PCs are too locked down here to go look for it). In the instructions it says to open the needle valve completely and use the main valve for regulation. Using the needle valve to fine tune if need be. it sounded odd from what I have read/come to understand.

Just to restate what you said; Get the working side up to around 25-30psi and use the needle valve from there to get the correct bps/bpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Could someone please explain to me the finer points of "bottle dump".

So, I get home after leaving my CO2 go at 1 bps and find all of my fish dead and an empty bottle.

Today has sucked some serrious balls.


Its a Milwaukee MA957 regulator
 

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Part of the problem is the Milwaukee instructions. IMHO they are totally wrong. The needle valve is there to set the flow rate.

The cylinder valve should be set full open. The working pressure should be set around 10-20 psi and the needle valve is used to control the flow.

The end of tank dump occurs when the liquid CO2 is gone from the cylinder and the regulator can't handle the pressure change and dumps excess CO2 pressure into the system.

You may have actually had two problems. A poorly adjusted system that led to the dump.

And it really sounds to me like you might be in the market for a new regulator.
 

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If the low side pressure gauge is not showing pressure that's one sign that the regulator may have problems.

Emptying a bottle in one day is another. Of course it could merely be that the directions they give you are totally wrong.
 

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A controller does shut off the flow.

But when the pH in the tank drops the controller will open the flow again. And you will again get a whole bunch of CO2 really quickly into the tank. In a small tank this can still overload the system with CO2 as the controller can't react fast enough. You could have a situation where your reactor gets filled with CO2 before it gets a chance to dissolve the trip the controller.

As long as you have no leaks in the system the CO2 sits there waiting for a place to escape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, so far so good. Following Rex's adjustments and not the instructions, I'm reading what I should be on both gauges and things are working fine. Too bad I just have plants now.

Thanks for asking about tank dump prevention. That was going to be my next question.
 
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