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Well, I have everything assembled, connected, and ready to go. Getting the 10# cylinder filled tomorrow, and the drop checker should arrive on Monday. I just have one question: I read the "startup" post, so I know how to safely turn on the gas. What I am unsure of is how to determine the appropriate working pressure setting, and the bubble per second rate. I realize each may take some experimenting, but what's a good baseline / starting point? I'm working with a 60 gal. tank, BTW.



Feel free to redirect me to another thread if more appropriate...



Thanks again for all of the help here!


For 60 gallon which I have typically it will be between 2.5 to 4.5 bps. I am at 4. Start at the lower end and go from there watching the ph drop and your co2 glass checker. The amount you end up with is dependent upon a lot of factors like flow in tank, how you are diffusing your co2, surface aeration, etc.

Many including me will tend to turn on co2 an hour before the lights come on and turn off co2 an hour before the lights go off. What you do is check your ph right before the co2 comes on and then an hour later right when lights come on or so and see if you get the 1 point ph drop. That is what you want to shoot for. So start off at like 2.5bps and go from there. May take a few days tweeking but you will get it


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Discussion Starter · #362 ·
30 PSI is a good starting delivery pressure. The bubble rate will really vary; it depends on how efficient your diffusion method is.

Set some time aside over the weekend to slowly increase your CO2 injection rate. Be sure to monitor your fish/shrimp for any signs of distress.

A drop checker will aid in the tuning, but should not be too heavily relied on, since changes in colour will take a few hours to become apparent
 

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Dear Darkblade48 and all

Amazing write up! wish that I came across here before. I used CO2 sytem with a pantball CO2 tank and regulator before. It last for 1,5 month but adjusting bubbles was very difficult. I have a 10 G tank with some plants and wanted to introduce myself to CO2 injection.



I have a 24oz tank and an adaptor that I got from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-CO2-...=1491189730&sr=8-8&keywords=paintball+adapter).



I connected the adapter to a Western Medical M1-320-PG dual gauge regulator .



I used a magnetic selenoid (Baco Eng, model 2w-8) connected to a ball valve (I think this is the most problematic part) and connected to a 1/4 M NPT to a silicone tubing adapter. This was followed by the fluval bubble counter and ceramic diffuser.



I don't want to spent to much, just want to upgrade a little more. Do you guys think this set up is somehow OK? I definitely will need a needle valve but the OK ones start with $40 (are the more affordable ones which can provide accurate counting)

Any suggestions on how to improve this a little more?

Thanks
 

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Tanks again for the great write up. I am new to the forum and did go through the 25 pages. Also posted my set up still waiting foe it to be posted.

Bump: Tanks again for the great write up. I am new to the forum and did go through the 25 pages. Also posted my set up still waiting foe it to be posted.
 

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Hi all

I introduced myself into the CO2 world and want to get some suggestions. I have a 10 gallon with some plant as you can see in the picture. I used my system before and the 24oz lasted 1 month



I used my system before and the 24oz panintball tank lasted 1 month. I used a ball valve at that time and think that it was the cause.



I use an adaptor that I got from amazon (blue) and connected it to the M1-320-PG (western Medical)



This is connected to a selenoid that I also get from amazon



Then I have the bad ball-valve, the 1/4 NPT tubing adapter, fluval bubble counter and diffuser

When I installed this system, controlling the flow was difficult but I managed it to a 2-3 BPS until I started the timer for the solenoid. Turn off/on the rates are completely different.
I know I have to change the valve to needle valve any affordable suggestions? Do you think valves at home depot will do the work ?

Other question is about the solenoid (BACOeng, model 2w-8). its doing the job very well, does not heat, up to max 10kg/cm2 which is =160 psi. BUT its not grounded!

I know that a standart 10G tank may not need CO2 set up like this. Maybe Fluval mini or the 88g is OK, but I want to get used to this system for the future. I use flourish excel and mainly dont have problems with plant growth. Just started some hair grass and baby tears and want them to grow.

What do you guys think about this?

Thanks in advance

Bump: Why are the pictures like this? I have to open in another page.

How can I have the pictures directly on the page?

Thanks
 

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The regulator is from Western Medica (M1-320-PG) I found a PDF brochure (page 10)(http://westernenterprises.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Western-Medica-2012.pdf)

Single Stage adjustable regulator with CGA-320 Nut and Nipple

FEATURES:
• Chrome-plated brass with all brass high-pressure chamber
• Maximum inlet pressure 3000 psi
• Durable neoprene diaphragm
• Internal reseating relief valve protects against over-pressurization
• Sintered filter for additional safety and to extend regulator life
• 2" diameter gauges
• Dual scale: psi and kPa
• Outlets are DISS gas specific
 

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I was wanting to know what kevmo911 found on Ebay.

Bump:

Are these pics for pressurized Co2? I am having trouble finding the pic. Link?


Please go to the first post in thread.


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I set up my pressured CO2 system about a month ago, and the biggest issue I have now [and there are many] is that the high pressure gauge has never worked. I ran out of gas Saturday because the gauge did not work, and monday when I put the new tank on I paid close attention to the gauge. When I slowly opened the tank valve [yes with the low pressure screw correctly placed] the needle was pegged at the max pressure, the stop pin was left of the needle, when the gas increased the needle rotated clockwise and tried to spin past the stop peg.

Normally I assume the needle would be at the right of the pin and as the pressure rises it moves clockwise till the correct tank pressure is reached.

I mentioned this to whom I bought it from which rhymes with Green Leaf Tea and they do not answer my question. I am assuming it is defective, a new one is under 20 can and should I replace it my self?

tanks
d
 

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Discussion Starter · #373 ·
Normally I assume the needle would be at the right of the pin and as the pressure rises it moves clockwise till the correct tank pressure is reached.

I mentioned this to whom I bought it from which rhymes with Green Leaf Tea and they do not answer my question. I am assuming it is defective, a new one is under 20 can and should I replace it my self?

tanks
d
Do you have a photo of your regulator? Are you sure you are looking at the high pressure gauge and not the low pressure gauge?

Yes, the needle in the valve should be to the right of the stop pin.

If you have a replacement gauge, then yes, you can replace it yourself, though it may void your warranty.
 

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Hello. I am looking for a budget pressurized co2 system with a dual stage regulator. When I look on Ebay, I see all these fairly cheap regulators, plus some expensive ones too. I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction for the cheapest regulator, solenoid, needle valve, etc. hopefully all under $200. Next question is lights. I know this doesn't exactly fit with this thread but it's very similar and I'm unsure where would be better. I have 2 50w led flood lights which produce 8000 lumens together. This is on a 46 gallon bowfront tank, which has a depth of 20 inches I believe. Assuming the lights are only a few inches above the water, would you think I need co2 for this? If not would another 50w light do it? I want to be able to grow any plants in my planted tank. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #377 ·
Thanks @Darkblade48, just stumbled across this detailed thread. Great idea to share. Do you mine if I post this in my tank log?

Thanks Ash.


Aqua oak tanks 4'x2'x2' & 5'x2'x2' both freshwater set up on apex Neptune systems.
Mortgage & Protection Adviser Full Time,
Peace
Dear Ash,

Yes, you can post it in your tank log, provided you link back to this thread and give credit to me.
 

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Dear Ash,

Yes, you can post it in your tank log, provided you link back to this thread and give credit to me.


Most certainly, it deserves the credit.

For the record as a newb I purchased a kit to make my experience a little more welcomming to CO2 pressurised. I got my kit from CO2Art, pro SE elite. Await delivery and let the fun begin in my 5' tank.


Aqua oak tanks 4'x2'x2' & 5'x2'x2' both freshwater set up on apex Neptune systems.
Mortgage & Protection Adviser Full Time,
Peace
 

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hello new here just bought a ista professional co2 set up and put it together and the check valve they sent with it leaks and the air tubing blows off so i am going to get a brass valve and hope this works also the system does not come with a instruction manual so saw some videos any help onthis would be great and how much do i open the needle valve?
 

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Discussion Starter · #380 ·
hello new here just bought a ista professional co2 set up and put it together and the check valve they sent with it leaks and the air tubing blows off so i am going to get a brass valve and hope this works also the system does not come with a instruction manual so saw some videos any help onthis would be great and how much do i open the needle valve?
A brass valve is fine, but so is a plastic one. You can always use something to secure the airline tubing to the check valve, but it should not be blowing off in the first place. What is your working pressure?

As for the instruction manual, I'm sure there should be one floating around somewhere.

For the needle valve, you can slowly open it (while monitoring your fish over a period of a few hours) bit by bit. If you have a drop checker or a pH monitor, you're aiming for around 30 ppm of CO2, or a 1 degree drop, respectively.
 
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