The Planted Tank Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I like the idea of getting a vortech since I already have a reeflink for my radeon lights, heard that some of them have problems burning up but don't know if that's a problem with the later models. I have a hydor kordalia 240 in my nano tank in the kitchen and it moves a decent amount of water. Not really sure how much I need to move but the flow from the jebao 8000 isn't cutting it right now. Any ideas for flow rate per hour I should be looking at for a nice breezy current in the tank?

Cheers
Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,846 Posts
Well, the Vortech would certainly do the job, and there are only a few other pumps that can generate such a random flow. That's why the SW reef people love them, but they are about $285 each, and you'd likely want two on a 125 gal tank.

I have a 90 gal planted tank and use a JBJ Oceanstream Circulation Pump/Powerhead + Duo Wavemaker Kit 500 gph, which at $87 for the 500 gph or $135 for 1600 gph is a comparative bargain. This can't do all the nice tricks the Vortech can do, but I do get some good alternating circulation from them.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
6,196 Posts
In my 120G I use two types of circulation pumps.

Two Koralia 600's, which produce a nice gentle broad flow. I run them constantly and they are very little if any maintenance.

I recently added two Jebao RW-4's. These are small, but they can move a lot of water. The nice thing is the flow is adjustable (100 to 1000 gph). At full power, these will give you more than a "nice breezy current". They will flat out blow the plants all around. That is where the adjustable feature is nice, as there is a fine line between nice breezy current and total mayhem.

I run the Jebao's only during the co2/lighting period. Let the fish and tank rest a bit in the evening and throughout the night.

Before I bought the Jebao's, I tried two Koralia 1150's, but their flow was just way too much for my planted tank. The plants were all plastered up against the glass everywhere. Again, it's a fine line and tricky to get right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
I'm a big fan of vortechs, they're by far the best looking powerhead. On a 125g, I'd say you should go with 2 MP10w, one on each end of the tank, sync'd wireless to create a nice random flow pattern.

A slightly cheaper option would be 1 MP40, on the opposite end of the tank from your jebao's outflow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
I have a vortech going on 5 years old. Replaced the wet side a last year because was getting a little loud.

Also the jebeo power heads are very similar to the vortech and 1/4 the price. But I'd say vortech is the best if you got the wallet for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Any qc issues with vortechs have been ironed out years ago and they're generally some of the highest quality propeller pumps on the market. Once you start getting up in the Rolls Royce category of powerheads I personally prefer tunze over vortech, but if you've already got reef link and radions you may as well complete the package. And I agree you would want two MP40 units for a 125. That way you can alternate left and right and help reduce dead spots


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, the Vortech would certainly do the job, and there are only a few other pumps that can generate such a random flow. That's why the SW reef people love them, but they are about $285 each, and you'd likely want two on a 125 gal tank.

I have a 90 gal planted tank and use a JBJ Oceanstream Circulation Pump/Powerhead + Duo Wavemaker Kit 500 gph, which at $87 for the 500 gph or $135 for 1600 gph is a comparative bargain. This can't do all the nice tricks the Vortech can do, but I do get some good alternating circulation from them.
Thanks for the info. I am a bit limited by what I can use since my tank stand is secured to the wall, it looks like the vortech outer head stays attached to the controller which means I would have to run it around the front of my tank. Do you know if the jbj brand pumps have that issue?
In my 120G I use two types of circulation pumps.

Two Koralia 600's, which produce a nice gentle broad flow. I run them constantly and they are very little if any maintenance.

I recently added two Jebao RW-4's. These are small, but they can move a lot of water. The nice thing is the flow is adjustable (100 to 1000 gph). At full power, these will give you more than a "nice breezy current". They will flat out blow the plants all around. That is where the adjustable feature is nice, as there is a fine line between nice breezy current and total mayhem.

I run the Jebao's only during the co2/lighting period. Let the fish and tank rest a bit in the evening and throughout the night.

Before I bought the Jebao's, I tried two Koralia 1150's, but their flow was just way too much for my planted tank. The plants were all plastered up against the glass everywhere. Again, it's a fine line and tricky to get right.
Appreciate the info. My LFS stocks a lot of pumps, think I'm going to see if he has the Jebao in stock. From what I hear the DC pumps tend to be quieter anyway.

Cheers
Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm a big fan of vortechs, they're by far the best looking powerhead. On a 125g, I'd say you should go with 2 MP10w, one on each end of the tank, sync'd wireless to create a nice random flow pattern.

A slightly cheaper option would be 1 MP40, on the opposite end of the tank from your jebao's outflow.
I have a vortech going on 5 years old. Replaced the wet side a last year because was getting a little loud.

Also the jebeo power heads are very similar to the vortech and 1/4 the price. But I'd say vortech is the best if you got the wallet for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I really want to get the vortech since I have the reeflink already. There's a chase behind the lights that I can fish a cord down if it's small enough, from what I've seen on the unboxing videos the controller and the powerhead don't disconnect. Is that true? Otherwise I don't think there's an option for me to get it to the side of the tank the way my stand is mounted to the wall. I suppose I could cut an access panel in the side of the stand and paint it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
I really want to get the vortech since I have the reeflink already. There's a chase behind the lights that I can fish a cord down if it's small enough, from what I've seen on the unboxing videos the controller and the powerhead don't disconnect. Is that true? Otherwise I don't think there's an option for me to get it to the side of the tank the way my stand is mounted to the wall. I suppose I could cut an access panel in the side of the stand and paint it.
You can actually disconnect the dry side and cord from the controller. This is supposed to allow for upgrading from an older model to the new QD model; you just have to unscrew the controller housing.

http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/QD_ES_Upgrade_Parts_Instructions_021815.pdf (look at second page)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
The wire is on the outside dry side of the vortech. And sticks out from the tank about 2-3". The dry side that is. You also need to make sure you have them aligned properly or they will growl. And typically once in place your good except for the occasional cleaning.

But the wire does disconnect from the controller by simply taking some screws out and unplugging it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I went with one vortech mp10 so far and I have to say I absolutely love it, amount of stuff that it collects on the pre-filter and keeps out of my overflows is astounding, that said it's definitely not enough for a 125 gallon. I might do with a mp40 on the other side, might do another mp10, one side of the tank definitely doesn't get enough flow. It seems like every mode on the mp10 creates a gyre instead of just pushing water from one side to the other. I tested this by throwing a piece of sinking food in front of the powerhead in each mode, each time the food would quickly shoot a couple feet away and then get sucked back and land near the side of the tank under the pump. If you want a pump to push co2 across the tank then I'm guessing this is not the pump for you. While I love the way this pump keeps my tank so clean and plan to get another, I'll likely get a jebao to help push co2 around as well. Thoughts? After a week my cuba and staurogyne look great and seem to already be growing, my cardamine lyrata is already growing new leaves and isn't yellow any more but my crinum caliamastratum is starting to yellow a bit (on the side that I feel doesn't get enough co2)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
A gyre is a good motion if it spans the length of the tank. Vortechs unfortunately are better at choppy, wide, turbulence rather than raw thrust. That's why I got rid of them on my Reef tank. Some people really like that style of flow but you need SEVERAL to get the whole tank covered. Tunze or the Chinese knockoff Jebao are better for actually pushing water clear to the other end of the tank. My Tunze 6105 at 50% moves more water, at a greater distance than my MP40 did at 100%, does it quieter, and at less than 1/2 the cost. Plus they're known to last decades. Unfortunate part is they don't have that sleek cool Ecotech Marine vibe to them with no cord inside the water and the flashy controller. But...the goal should be minimizing dead spots and maximizing flow efficiency hitting every corner of the tank, not how far on the bleeding edge of tech something is. I digress


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
is it possible to get a picture? I am trying to re-position the hardware in my tank and am in a similar situation: trying to achieve good water circulation. I currently have a FX6 and an ehiem 2217, but still getting dead spots.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top