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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone successfully plumbed inline equipment into the FX5 filter? I've read about some troubles getting a Hydor inline heater to work, but I'm left wondering has anyone succeeded?

I'm planning an inline manifold for pH reading, fert delivery and heating. Any comments welcome. I think I've reviewed most of the DIY material here, I'm mostly interested in success/failure with the FX5.
 

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Just curious, what is the ID/OD of the tubing used for the input and outputs for the FX5?
 

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OK, took some extra hose from my FX5 and measured it, from outside to outside it is 1". Not very flexible and it has ribs.

Tina
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, the tubing is a bit of a challenge, I'm more concerned about reports that the on-board chip messes with flow rate if there's something inline. My suspicion is that there was some airlocking going on, but I've not heard from anyone who has succeeded!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've been thinking about that as well, I've an older Magnum pump that would take care of CO2 solution, dosing and heat. I'd like to stay with one set of inputs and outputs into the tank though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, I broke down and called RC Hagen to see what their opinion was on plumbing things into the outlet line of an FX5. The simple answer is that there's no reason, either canister characteristics or printed circuit controls that you can't plumb into the outlet line.

The comments were that you'd have a challenge with the ribbed tubing making good connections but that by using clamps you should get around any problems. A pretty simple consideration.

The only caveat was that anything that would airlock could interfere with the autopriming sequence and cause some issues getting the pump started after maintenance. So, for my purposes as long as I stay away from airlocks its all good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
mmm, an outlet pipe that has a portion of the line which ascends and then descends before ascending again. I tried to draw a text picture but the board scrabled it. Basically an updside down U shape where air can accumulate at the top of the U and cause an artificial equilibrium within the hose.

Can anyone explain this better?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Oh, I forgot to mention that one of the comments from the Hagen phone call was that they're commonly seeing people overfill their media baskets and that this is the only problem they're really having with the FX5.

Also, a portion of the rational behind the 'smart technology' was that the impeller design is dependant upon it running in the correct direction. The smart technology has allowed them to design a direction sensitive impeller for better efficiency...at least thats what I recall from the phone coversation.
 

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Doesn't the FX5 shut off for a period of time each day to allow air/gas trapped to go to surface of canister? If so, then wouldn't an in-line heater potentially get damaged during the "no flow" period, if water back flowed out of it?

Just a thought?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The stop is about a minute if I remember correctly, as well, the heater has a thermostat and will shut itself off if it overheats. Now, if it got hot then had a blast of water it could crack the glass.

I'm not anticipating a huge amout of air buildup in the filter, certainly not enough to displace all the water in my inline rig that will take care of fert addition, C02 addition, heat and pH sensing!

I guess I could keep it standing or mounted in a position where its at a local low so that the air wouldn't collect around it.
 

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The stop period is 2 minutes. I don't think a heater with a thermostat would be able to damage itself during this period. There could be some potential problems if the thermostat was remote, like in the Eheim thermo model filters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm designing the stand right now, and man the FX5 is restrictive, by my measuring I'm going to need about 23 inches of height to fit the filter in. Can anyone who has an FX5 give me an idea of how much room they have and if its enough?
 

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Well, one problem is are you going to service the filter while it's in place? You'll need clearance to remove the cover, the outflow pipe is permantly attached and requires a lot of headspace to remove. if you're going to slide it out and service it outside the stand you can get by with less space. I'd say you'll need 29" of space if you want to be able to remove the top while the filter is in place. Remember after you've serviced the filter you can put it back under the aquarium THAN fill it but you'll need space enough to be able to replace the cover! If you don't mind putting some muscle into the filter cleaning process than you can get by with 23". I'm sure of it. I don't know if you're male or female. A small female will have problems removing the filter full of water from under the tank if it's a tight squeeze. I actually got out a measuring tape and checked. I have 29" and barely enough room to replace the cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks very much for pulling out the tape for me! I've no problem with lifting it out to do maintenance and had planned to do so. The max I can get with my existing stand design is about 24 inches and it'll be so tight I fear it may drive me crazy getting things in and out.
 
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