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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings,

I'm trying to get parts together for a weekend project to plumb my Fluval 206 canister to a 30gal I haven't yet put to use. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

As I understand it:
My 206 canister hoses are 5/8" ID and it flows 205gph.

Anyone have any math on whether or not I'd be restricting my canister input by using a 1/2" bulkhead to 1/2" MPT to 5/8" 90 degree elbow hose barb? This would be my preference if I'm not restricting flow.

Other options are either to use a straight barb (which would require more wall clearance and, I expect, eventually crease my hose) or to build it out as a 3/4" bulkhead with a 3/4" MPT to 3/4" 90 degree barb (which I expect I can force a 5/8" hose onto).

Inflow would be about 3/4 down the tank and outflow would be above waterline bulkhead 1/2" or 3/4" (to match inflow) loc-line.

Am I making this more difficult than it needs to be?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!

Thanks! :fish:
 

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Greetings,

I'm trying to get parts together for a weekend project to plumb my Fluval 206 canister to a 30gal I haven't yet put to use. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

As I understand it:
My 206 canister hoses are 5/8" ID and it flows 205gph.

Anyone have any math on whether or not I'd be restricting my canister input by using a 1/2" bulkhead to 1/2" MPT to 5/8" 90 degree elbow hose barb? This would be my preference if I'm not restricting flow.

Other options are either to use a straight barb (which would require more wall clearance and, I expect, eventually crease my hose) or to build it out as a 3/4" bulkhead with a 3/4" MPT to 3/4" 90 degree barb (which I expect I can force a 5/8" hose onto).

Inflow would be about 3/4 down the tank and outflow would be above waterline bulkhead 1/2" or 3/4" (to match inflow) loc-line.

Am I making this more difficult than it needs to be?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!

Thanks! :fish:
Any fitting that inserts into your hoses are going to be right at 1/2" O.D. just like the hose connection points on the filter so that's the minimum O.D. you want to use in your plumbing circuit to achieve the 205 gph @ 1/2". You already plan on 5/8" 90s so that eliminates any constriction that a 1/2" 90 would create so your first and simplest option has no cons and unless you have some reason to circulate over the filter's 205 gph spec @ 1/2" you're good to go - no math required & have fun!
 

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Any fitting that inserts into your hoses are going to be right at 1/2" O.D. just like the hose connection points on the filter so that's the minimum O.D. you want to use in your plumbing circuit to achieve the 205 gph @ 1/2". You already plan on 5/8" 90s so that eliminates any constriction that a 1/2" 90 would create so your first and simplest option has no cons and unless you have some reason to circulate over the filter's 205 gph spec @ 1/2" you're good to go - no math required & have fun!
Seems obvious when you put it like that. Thanks for the help!

Yipiee!! :bounce:

Just curious, why are you doing this?
That is a valid question. I would have to say because there is no compelling reason for me not to do so. :proud:

Actually, I want to get rid of the humps on the top of my tank. I want to fit a tighter glass top on the tank to eliminate evaporation. I'll be drilling the tank for a through-tank overflow and return from sump anyhow. Andat one point I had considered a DIY hood project which would be substantially easier with no obstructions.

I might be missing something but do you guys think that this is a really bad idea?:icon_eek:
 

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I have some doubts about the tight hood planning.
Doing away with evaporation may have some other things involved. Water will evaporate. Whether it can escape or winds up condensing on the lid may be the question as I see it. Since you are on a plant forum, I would assume there will be light above the tank? Water condensing on the glass is not going to help the lighting? Lighting and filters create heat. Will the heat build up too high in the tank if it can't cool by evaporation escape?
I recognize that I'm South and you are North but our rooms are likely near the same temp. I have a fan on the back of my hood to help remove heat and built the back totally open.
You may have done this and know it works for you but just something to consider??
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you for the thoughtful reply. I should have been more precise and said that I want a tighter & cleaner piece of glass on top for aesthetics, to reduce evaporation, and to keep my sword from climbing out. :proud: It's simply the options that I'm afforded not having to plan canopies or glass tops around where my tubing is. I could seal the whole thing shut or I can leave it wide open.

I will be running a tropical 30g with a 15g Rubbermaid sump. Depending on room temp & flow rate I can reduce heat in the sump if need be. I have a 100W in there now for my 20g set for 2deg below tank and I'm not sure that I've ever seen it kick over. I don't plan to be able to afford enough lighting on a 30g that heat should be an issue. I don't have anything set for lighting atm, might look at a led setup or CFLs, dunno. :icon_idea If the hood needs a fan I'd put one in regardless of what it would do to the temperature of my tank.


I'd be curious as to whether anyone else has designed their aquarium top with evaporation in mind with regards to the refraction and diffusion of their lighting. Could build it out at an angle or with a single depression to help water run off. I suppose someone's got specs on the slipperiest material with the best light transmission. Something to ponder I guess, but the truth of it is that nothing going on in my tank would require any such strict tolerances with the exception of my CO2.

:fish1:
 
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