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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone please help me ID this algae positively? The tank has been setup for quite some time and it was going great for about two months until this algae started popping up. I've been using Excel and Leaf zone on it. Excel was stepped up once the algae got out of control under advice of LFS. It did change color it was almost all dark colored and it turned almost totally white but it's still growing. I thought when it turned white it meant i killed it? I only have the basic parameters: 0 ammo 0 trite 5-10 trate. I change about 1.5 gallons per week and the tank has about 50+ cherry shrimp in it. I just finally added two Otto's yesterday to help get the glass cleaned a little since it's acrylic(actually a material softer than acrylic) i end up scratching heck out of it when i clean it. It's been pretty much let go besides dosing and water changes I've somewhat giving up on it. Although i have hope that it can be saved and i can be re motivated to aqua scape it and save the plants. Anyway please help with ID and eradication! here are some pics, dirty glass algae and all.






FTS

p.s. The subtrate is black flourite sand, i dose the leafzone once a week and excel every other day 1/2 capful, DIY co2 has been halted for a couple months. Light is a 20 watt t8 bulb.
 

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I just noticed the same thing in my 29g. It doesn't look like Bryozoa. My oto's seem to "pick" at it but not enough to help. Well at least it looks like they are picking at it.... If it's the stuff I think it is, amano shimp will eat it. I will be trying that soon. I wish I remembered the name of it....:icon_frow
 

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True, it could be Staghorn Algae. Clado from what I have seen is greener. Who knows... Amano shrimp couldn't hurt. I am going to try them. Cause whatever you have, I have. Well, at least that's what I can tell from the pics. BTW, Nice pics! They look they could be in High Times! :icon_wink Not that I would know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks, here are a couple pics i took of my clownfish.







DSLR cameras are fun :D

So you think an Amano or three would munch on this? From what i read like nothing eats staghorn.
 

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You've got the Stag. Is your tank new/uncycled? Stag is common with ammonia in tank. Keep co2 up and/or light down and wait it out. Trim old leaves with it and it pretty much goes away on its own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
With said measures taken will it melt away on it's own or do i need to take everything out of the tank and clean it off? Which would really suck with all the micro baby shrimp about.
 

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You say that the tank has been set up for "some time" then just "two months" - which is it? You change 1.5g weekly, but how big is the tank? I take it there is no co2? What is your lighting? Probably reduce/raise that, assuming you can't bump co2 if you don't have injected.

I'd use some hydrogen peroxide locally (followed by WC) to rid the infection,and reduced lighting from then on to prevent reoccurrence.
 

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Looks like staghorn and/or black beard to me too.

Seems you're getting a partial kill with the Excel. As long as you're using it, might as well use it as a spot treatment - turn off air and filters to still the water, and squirt your normal dose directly on the worst algae spots with a syringe. Wait a few minutes then turn everything back on.

For cleaning the inside of the tank, you could try a Mr. Clean "Magic Eraser" - the plain kind, not the kind with a green "Scotch-Brite" type abrasive pad on one side. It's equivalent to 2500-3000 grit sandpaper. It removes algae easily, including green spot, and even in existing scratches. I've heard claims that its abrasive property is fine enough to act as a polish, smoothing the acrylic over time, which makes it harder for new algae to attach. I don't know whether that's the case, or whether it simply does a very good job of removing every trace of algae; but in the few months I've been using them I have noticed a difference in the time it takes for algae to return, and no negative effects.

Minus the algae, you've got a nice tank there. There are definitely other things that we could discuss to get rid of that pesky algae, but it sounds like the major hurdle right now is motivation. Motivation + knowledge + effort = results!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow thanks for the magic eraser idea! Wife had some under sink and i tried it, worked wonders on the inside!

macclellan i never said the tank was setup for 2 months i said co2 has been stopped for the past two months. The tank has been up for 5-6 months. I discontinued co2 when i started using excel i was worried the co2 combined with excel would kill the shrimp. Should i start co2 up again and keep up the excel? will the shrimp be fine? Lighting is mentioned right after my stoppage of co2 it's a 20 watt T8 bulb, but after just cleaning up the glass and looking at the bulb i realize its actually a 20 watt T12 bulb. I have other options for lighting if i need more. Also the tank is a 6.6 gallon petco tank, made out of material softer than acrylic, Polystyrene..
 

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Wow thanks for the magic eraser idea! Wife had some under sink and i tried it, worked wonders on the inside!
Great!

Sounds like you're getting motivated. :) So let's go through the works:

Light: Probably acceptable. Keep photoperiod at no more than 8 hours, at least until you get things under control.

CO2/Excel: Excel is a weak substitute for CO2, your tank would benefit from the real thing. Excel is a known stressor of invertebrates, especially if overdosing; though that stress alone can be tolerable. Reasonable static CO2 levels won't hurt your shrimp, but the sudden addition of it can stress them. Take care you don't go over 30ppm CO2, as this is possible with DIY CO2 in a tank this small, and watch your shrimp for signs of stress. If you want to be cautious, cut out the Excel for a couple of days when introducing CO2. After that you may reintroduce Excel, more for its algaecidal property than its effect on plants. On further thought about Excel spot treatment, I wouldn't use it unless you can be fairly sure you won't also be hitting shrimp with concentrated Excel.

Macros: Nitrogen is fine. Given your setup, I'll infer that phosphorus is probably a bit high, but not problematic. Potassium is supplied by Leaf Zone.

Micros: Iron is supplied in abundance by Fluorite and Leaf Zone. But I couldn't find any reference to Leaf Zone containing any other micronutrients. If this is true, PMDD ferts would be a worthwhile upgrade in my opinion. There may be other off the shelf options, but I'm not familiar with them since I've used PMDD from day one in this hobby.

Circulation: Ideally, all your plants should be should be swaying in the current, with no dead zones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks again Cobra, i'll try starting the co2 backup and cut back on excel. Lighting i'll put on a timer i've been doing it manual which admittedly isn't very consistant, it's usually on too long usually 10-12 hours. I will definitely need to up the circulation as my plants are almost motionless.

I'm just learning about PPMD, where is a good place for a recipe?

I did do a bit of tank cleanup today trying to get over the hopelessness that the algae has brought upon it. I want to do a 20g planted but i really want to figure out this tank first before moving on to bigger headaches.

Planted tanks make reef tanks look almost easy.

Thanks again for your help and research!
 

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Everyone does this a bit different, tanks differ in lighting, flora/fauna load, amount and frequency of water changes, etc. It can be a bit overwhelming at first.

So here's a recipe I worked out for you, based on what I know and am assuming about your tank conditions. Know that I lean to the conservative side when giving exact fertilization advice on other peoples' tanks, and this recipe reflects that. It should be an adequate starting point, but only that; continue learning from other people, and your tank itself.

1 tablespoon CSM+B (provides iron and trace minerals)
1 tablespoon MgSO4 (provides magnesium)
2 tablespoons K2SO4 (provides potassium)

Mix dry ingredients thoroughly. Add one tablespoon of mix to two cups distilled water. Shake well to dissolve. Keep in the refrigerator.

Dose 1 tsp. three times a week. Each bottle of liquid will last you three months, and the dry mix will make four bottles.

When ordering the dry ingredients, I suggest getting the nitrate and phosphate as well. They're not used in this recipe, but they're nice to have them around should you need them later.
 

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Last time I bought was from Greg Watson, but that was years ago and I don't think he sells anymore (this stuff lasts a long time).

If I had to buy again now, I'd try Rex Grigg. Google his name and his website will come right up.
 
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