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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 120tall tank with a sump, that is gassing off too much of the CO2 that i am injecting and I am having a algae outbreak. I was wondering what i could do to stop the gassing off. Or could I take the sump out and hook a fx5 to the output and input from the tank? Would this work? Will this be enough water exchange? Any other ideas?
 

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you can seal off the sump top openings with plastic lids or saran wrap, this will help keep the outgassed CO2 in a closed system and will get reabsorbed.

I read that on this site somewhere
 

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How are you getting the CO2 into the water?
How do you know you are outgassing a lot of your CO2?


CO2 outgasses due to surface aggitation. If you have an overflow, or trickle filter as part of your sump, these are what is causing your issue. Reduce the distance of the water falls, best if none.



Once that is done, you may or may not need to cover the sump. I inject and don't cover my 135 which is 72x18, keep my CO2 at 30+ so its not all about surface area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I am putting the co2 straight into the tank via a inline CO2 Reactor. The sump is a trickle type, and the over flow is falling about 2inches I plan on fixing that is week end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok so here is the idea to redo the sump what do you guys and gals think. Do you think this will help with the gas off issues. I think this will help with the trickling of the water.

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I adjusted my sump so that there was lil splashing. the inflow from the tank can go into a larger pvc tube to stop the waterfall splashing effect. Also if you decrease ur output to the tank, you can avoid any trickles over baffles. The flow will still go the way you want, just without splashing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I adjusted my sump so that there was lil splashing. the inflow from the tank can go into a larger pvc tube to stop the waterfall splashing effect. Also if you decrease ur output to the tank, you can avoid any trickles over baffles. The flow will still go the way you want, just without splashing.
So you think the set up would work then?
 

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So you think the set up would work then?
I think it would help a lot. I think the part you have to pay the most attention to is the inlet and floss on the left side. You want to create as gentle an entry to the sump as possible. On the left, I think you are going to drip through floss, as opposed to the bio media that you will rise up through without air. A slight angle on the outlet side of the bio ball area could reduce the waterfall effect there.

Covering it is a big deal as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Plus, I don't think that one baffle coming down in the middle is really doing anything.
so you are saying like this, and I was thinking about replacing the floss with a filter sock, and make the tube longer so it sits in the water.
 

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so you are saying like this, and I was thinking about replacing the floss with a filter sock, and make the tube longer so it sits in the water.
Yup. Perfect, IMO.

Are you building it yourself? Long term, I plan to do a diy acrylic sump just like what you have here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yup. Perfect, IMO.

Are you building it yourself? Long term, I plan to do a diy acrylic sump just like what you have here.
I am building this my self I will be going tonight to get a 30g tank as the base then I will be going from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I started the build of the sump last night, I think I will turn out great I will have to get some photos of it so you all can see what you think and tell me what you think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Here is the sump design now.
 

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If you wanted to hit the sponge first, before the bio media, I think you could just shift that part over and swap it with the bio media. I've also heard that it's good to force the water up through the sponge rather than down onto it.

All of the baffles that come down from the top need to not extend up to the very top of the sump, so that if the media clogs, the flow bypasses the media but stays in the sump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you wanted to hit the sponge first, before the bio media, I think you could just shift that part over and swap it with the bio media. I've also heard that it's good to force the water up through the sponge rather than down onto it.

All of the baffles that come down from the top need to not extend up to the very top of the sump, so that if the media clogs, the flow bypasses the media but stays in the sump.
the sponge is to do noting but break the fall of the water. I was talking to the guy who does all tank set and sump design to the LFS, he recommended making sure i have something to stop the churning of the water. I went to the top for the hold in the tank. if I get to the point where i dont feel safe with hints of over flow I will cut it out or make a flow hole higher in the baffle. Thanks for the feed back though I will be adding a little more silicone tonight. Do I need to silicone the bottom of the baffles?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Go the rest of the silicone done last night, have to do a few minor tweaks the let it sit should be ready for water on sunday.
 
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