I find the controller to be overkill honestly. Why did your co2 not turn off overnight?
pH controller - people's thoughts
I'm considering buying a pH controller to monitor the pH of my water and turn on CO2 when the level goes above my defined level.
Does anyone have one and recommend it?
I currently use a timer to turn the CO2 on an hour before lights on and off an hour before lights off, then have the air pump running overnight because the plants aren't giving out oxygen and I noticed the fish gasping without it. My concern is if the CO2 doesn't shut off overnight and the fish get gassed. I've already had one very close call with gassing my fish and I really don't want to repeat it. Can someone put my fears to rest?
Does anyone have one and recommend it?
I currently use a timer to turn the CO2 on an hour before lights on and off an hour before lights off, then have the air pump running overnight because the plants aren't giving out oxygen and I noticed the fish gasping without it. My concern is if the CO2 doesn't shut off overnight and the fish get gassed. I've already had one very close call with gassing my fish and I really don't want to repeat it. Can someone put my fears to rest?
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I have the Milwaukee SMS ph controller and while I like being able to see what the ph is I have to admit I believe they are kind of a waste of money. If you have your CO2 hooked up to a timer that goes on when your lights go on I would say to find something else to spend your money on as the ph controller is one of those pieces of equipment that are not needed.
Waste of $$ if you buy it to control your CO2.
I have the Milwaukee SMS ph controller and while I like being able to see what the ph is I have to admit I believe they are kind of a waste of money. If you have your CO2 hooked up to a timer that goes on when your lights go on I would say to find something else to spend your money on as the ph controller is one of those pieces of equipment that are not needed.
I got mine used as a setup deal, so I use it. While I am new to getting the CO2 set where it needs to be, I find the controller gives me a wide range in which I can screw things up and still not gas my fish. I'm still getting it where I want it and now I'm not sure that I will ever hit just the right spot as the plants are growing, moving, and changing which changes the CO2 I need.
Maybe not necessary but then neither are most things we buy for the fish tank. Alternate methods could be found for most of the stuff. I like having it.
Maybe not necessary but then neither are most things we buy for the fish tank. Alternate methods could be found for most of the stuff. I like having it.
have three would buy another
got mine cheap used and has 10x the resolution of milwaukee
like anything there good ways and not so good ways of using it
got mine cheap used and has 10x the resolution of milwaukee
like anything there good ways and not so good ways of using it
Thanks for the responses everyone. I think the consensus seems to be it doesn't really give much benefits, but if you like 'tinkering' then it's another toy to play with.
The reason I want it is I want to try and stabilise as many aspect of the tank as possible, and having a pH monitor is one of those things I'd like to try. I'll report back if I notice any benefits.
The reason I want it is I want to try and stabilise as many aspect of the tank as possible, and having a pH monitor is one of those things I'd like to try. I'll report back if I notice any benefits.
If you are able to run your tank successfully with considerably less than the maximun CO2 concentration that the fish can tolerate, in other words low to medium light, you can use a controller and run the CO2 24 hours a day. It wastes CO2, and puts the fish under a bit more stress than necessary at night, but it shouldn't kill or maim the fish. That would seem to be the optimum way to have consistent CO2 concentration at all times. But, if you have high light, and need the CO2 concentration up close to what would harm the fish, then if the CO2 runs at night the lack of plant consumption of CO2 will probably raise the concentration enough to harm or kill the fish, even though the controller should shut off the CO2 before that happens. So, I might think of using a controller with low light, but never with high light.
I have one on my 90gallon garage tank. It's on a timer with the lights. I think they are great if you don't like futzing around with needle valves everyday.
:thumbsup::thumbsup: x2If you are able to run your tank successfully with considerably less than the maximun CO2 concentration that the fish can tolerate, in other words low to medium light, you can use a controller and run the CO2 24 hours a day. It wastes CO2, and puts the fish under a bit more stress than necessary at night, but it shouldn't kill or maim the fish. That would seem to be the optimum way to have consistent CO2 concentration at all times. But, if you have high light, and need the CO2 concentration up close to what would harm the fish, then if the CO2 runs at night the lack of plant consumption of CO2 will probably raise the concentration enough to harm or kill the fish, even though the controller should shut off the CO2 before that happens. So, I might think of using a controller with low light, but never with high light.
I run both methods on 2 different tanks and they work well for me. The key is to be able to dial in the CO2 to the appropriate output.
I do like mine for the fact that I can put it on a timer and let it watch things from there. As there are so many other things to check up and learn when starting with plants, I feel this is one item that needs less attention. I do watch it just because I don't fully trust any mechanical/electrical item bu that only means lookinfg that it does cycle on and off. When/ if I reach a point that my plants and I are fully able to communicate, I will likely not replace the monitor.
I use my controller for visual ph readings only for 10yrs now , my co2 is on a timer with the light's .
better yet get a hanna ph/ec/temp/tds meter that u can text anytime and use on several tanks, it should give you a better understanding on when to do water changes and how everything works.
if your gassing your fish YOUR TRYING TO GO TO FAST slow down and watch and check up on them every 10-20 min then again @ 1hr if all is good then you can go higher if all checks out. your fish will show signs of stress before a dc will tell you there is to much co2 learn to read your fishes behavior. even better there isnt really a need of super high co2 levels for first timers its playing with fire in time when your used to how everything works then id say u can upgrade your lighting and co2 but id stick with med light/co2 demand till you feel comfortable with everything.
if your gassing your fish YOUR TRYING TO GO TO FAST slow down and watch and check up on them every 10-20 min then again @ 1hr if all is good then you can go higher if all checks out. your fish will show signs of stress before a dc will tell you there is to much co2 learn to read your fishes behavior. even better there isnt really a need of super high co2 levels for first timers its playing with fire in time when your used to how everything works then id say u can upgrade your lighting and co2 but id stick with med light/co2 demand till you feel comfortable with everything.
using a controller with high light and high co2 has not given me any problems
i have been doing it on several tanks for years
and thats running 24/7
the co2 does not go above the set level, day or night
fish can ether be healthy at a given level or not , with a little grey area in between
matters not if those levels are during the day , night or both
keep surface film, even if invisible to a minimum as well as lots of surface agitation and cooler temperature
to maintaining high o2 levels can not be over stated
wasting co2 a night with a controller is a way overblown
the co2 is barely on at night and during the day you use less because it does not need to ramp up
that being said, you can simply put a controller on a timer if you have issues or are worried
i have been doing it on several tanks for years
and thats running 24/7
the co2 does not go above the set level, day or night
fish can ether be healthy at a given level or not , with a little grey area in between
matters not if those levels are during the day , night or both
keep surface film, even if invisible to a minimum as well as lots of surface agitation and cooler temperature
to maintaining high o2 levels can not be over stated
wasting co2 a night with a controller is a way overblown
the co2 is barely on at night and during the day you use less because it does not need to ramp up
that being said, you can simply put a controller on a timer if you have issues or are worried
agree completely with this statement.wasting co2 a night with a controller is a way overblown
Recovering after surgery I spent many sleepless nights on the couch right next to my injected tanks. The relay's rarely if ever clicked after lights out on the tank.
I do without. Not intents on getting one either. They are pointless for me. Unless you are doing something drastic, your ph doesn't shift too much. Alot depends on your water makeup as well. I use a AP regulator that is all electronic, no variances there. I also use R/O water at about 70-75 percent. I was run my co2 24/7 and ph is stable without a controller.
On my next Display Tank build I will buy another AP regulator and but put it on a timer. If my water shifts from 6.7-7.0 over night and back when the lights come on I still won't use a controller. When we acclimate fish from the lfs or where ever, their tank water is different than our own majority of the time. The acclimation process would be the same as your ph shifting over night, a gradual change. Fish are more adaptable than what we may give them credit for but you have to go about it the right way.
On my next Display Tank build I will buy another AP regulator and but put it on a timer. If my water shifts from 6.7-7.0 over night and back when the lights come on I still won't use a controller. When we acclimate fish from the lfs or where ever, their tank water is different than our own majority of the time. The acclimation process would be the same as your ph shifting over night, a gradual change. Fish are more adaptable than what we may give them credit for but you have to go about it the right way.
Just to follow up on this; I've had it in place now for a couple of weeks, with desired pH set to 6.5. What it does is wait until the pH goes up to about 6.55 then turns the gas on until it gets down to about 6.45 and switches off. It seems to take about 4 or 5 hours for the pH to drop and switch off.
I've not noticed any difference with my plants but what I have noticed is that I think I was putting too much CO2 in before. Given that it takes 4 hours to get the pH down to 6.45, and I was running it for double that I suspect the pH was dropping quite low. This just takes the guess work out of it.
Second observation; my fish seem happier - the clown loaches especially. Before they seemed to spend most of their time sleeping in their 'Clown Cave', but they're out almost all the time now. That backs up my thought that I was adding too much CO2 before.
Third observation; because the CO2 is off for periods during the day, the water actually looks clearer due to there not being a CO2 mist in the water. I really like that. I was never a fan of the fizzy pop look - the water looks crystal clear now.
So, those are my observations. I personally quite like having it - just for the amount of control it gives to the equation.
I've not noticed any difference with my plants but what I have noticed is that I think I was putting too much CO2 in before. Given that it takes 4 hours to get the pH down to 6.45, and I was running it for double that I suspect the pH was dropping quite low. This just takes the guess work out of it.
Second observation; my fish seem happier - the clown loaches especially. Before they seemed to spend most of their time sleeping in their 'Clown Cave', but they're out almost all the time now. That backs up my thought that I was adding too much CO2 before.
Third observation; because the CO2 is off for periods during the day, the water actually looks clearer due to there not being a CO2 mist in the water. I really like that. I was never a fan of the fizzy pop look - the water looks crystal clear now.
So, those are my observations. I personally quite like having it - just for the amount of control it gives to the equation.
the time it takes to go from one set point to another is directly related to the co2 injection rate , diffusion method,and rate of consumption and off gassingJust to follow up on this; I've had it in place now for a couple of weeks, with desired pH set to 6.5. What it does is wait until the pH goes up to about 6.55 then turns the gas on until it gets down to about 6.45 and switches off. It seems to take about 4 or 5 hours for the pH to drop and switch off.
I've not noticed any difference with my plants but what I have noticed is that I think I was putting too much CO2 in before. Given that it takes 4 hours to get the pH down to 6.45, and I was running it for double that I suspect the pH was dropping quite low. This just takes the guess work out of it.
Second observation; my fish seem happier - the clown loaches especially. Before they seemed to spend most of their time sleeping in their 'Clown Cave', but they're out almost all the time now. That backs up my thought that I was adding too much CO2 before.
Third observation; because the CO2 is off for periods during the day, the water actually looks clearer due to there not being a CO2 mist in the water. I really like that. I was never a fan of the fizzy pop look - the water looks crystal clear now.
So, those are my observations. I personally quite like having it - just for the amount of control it gives to the equation.
Yah, but my point was I'd not adjusted the flow rate since I put the pH monitor in. So, if it's switching off for half a day now it's in place then it would imply I was putting too much in before and the pH was getting too low for my fish. They definitely seem a lot happier now.
I've also stopped running the air pump overnight with no adverse consequences, i.e. gasping fish.
I've also stopped running the air pump overnight with no adverse consequences, i.e. gasping fish.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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