[eatfood]

I have a 1/8" ss hex nipple that I cranked too tight into a ss burkert 2822. I think I had the teflon on it backwards (so it worked back out of the connection) and now I can't take them apart (with a pair of wrenches). is there a penetrating sealer I could apply to the surface that would work itself down into the threads? like a liquid Teflon or thread locker - something? I do not really need to take these two apart and I am afraid that something will snap if I get too hard on it.

EDIT: I haven't even done a leak test yet, so i might be ok - just looking for options.

 

[oldpunk78]

You probably broke a thread. Spray it with a penetrate like wd40 wait a couple mins and try again. Then when you take it apart inspect the treads.

 

[eatfood]

so ... would that likely be the female threads in the burkert? I did not hear anything when I was working on it - it just seems like it is on there really well. if I did break a thread is there anything I can do? I mean I will probably wait to do a leak test before I do anything, but if I am having a problem do you think I can just put it back together with teflon if there is a broken thread?

 

[stephenpence]

My personal favorite penetrating oil is PB Break loose. It is incredible! It also stinks. I would cross the broken thread bridge when you come to it. That will depend on where the thread is.. if its covered by the nut.. etc. Keep us posted on your leak test.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2

 

[oldpunk78]

Were both the solenoid and pipe fitting stainless? If so they will both be jacked up. I would see if it leaks first before you pull it apart. More damage will occur when taking it apart if a thread did indeed break. If it leaks and you have to take it apart you might be able to re-tap the bad part in the solenoid and run a dye down on the fitting to clean it up.

 

[eatfood]

sweet - thanks guys for the help. I will keep this updated.

 

[eatfood]

I just did a quick google search and found this stuff called SAF-T-LOK

I think before I try to take it apart (again if my leak test fails) I will try the green penetrating / wicking thread sealant - could possibly save me some headache

 

[Chiefston]

Try some PB Blaster. If it is SS on SS, you may have friction welding, especially if the teflon tape backed out.

 

[eatfood]

Try some PB Blaster. If it is SS on SS, you may have friction welding, especially if the teflon tape backed out.

Friction welding sounds like a possibility for sure. The hex nipple started to back out some and then got tight. Then I cranked it back down a touch thinking it would loosen up a little and it just got more stuck. Might have friction welded at that point. Idk

 

[oldpunk78]

Friction welding sounds like a possibility for sure. The hex nipple started to back out some and then got tight. Then I cranked it back down a touch thinking it would loosen up a little and it just got more stuck. Might have friction welded at that point. Idk

I did this a few weeks ago. Too much torque and not enough tape =

^ That's probably what your threads look like now.

 

[eatfood]

I bet that made you real happy lol. I think (if the leak test fails) I will just use the green loctite 290 and pray to jeebus.

 

[jester56]

FWIW, I'd leak test it first, as this surely qualifies for the old, "If it ain't broke..."

 

[eatfood]

So just an update - this connection passed the leak test so I got lucky on this one. if it didn't pass I found this loctite green 290 penetrating thread locker / sealer that should have done the trick. You can see my finished regulator on page 10 in Oldpunk's how to build a regulator thread, if you are so inclined.