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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's probably been a couple of years ago now that my inline Hydor stuck on and nearly parboiled my 65g. I've been wondering if anyone knows what might be available on the market as far as something to safeguard against a heater sticking on and cooking the tank. I don't want to spend a whole lot. Is there such a thing as a temperature-controlled outlet or some such that anyone can tell me about?
 

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Those are probably the cheapest option.

I looked at a dual stage Ranco for a heater/chiller (iceprobe) combo a couple of months ago. For a bit more, I went with a used Aquacontroller 2 instead.
 

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http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=75

Zoo Med Reptitemp 500R

There you go.

I used this to make an incubator (poultry), and it was fantastic. About $30 with shipping, and very sensitive (I needed temp control within half a degree or less). Basically, it supplies power until a set temp is reached, then it cuts off the power, and it's accurate, and reliable, from my experience. I was amazed. I have often thought of using one for a heater failsafe in aquariums, but haven't gotten that far yet as all my heaters are new Ebos.


I'm pretty sure the probe can be placed right in the tank, too, it's encased in plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's my only question. The probe looks really similar to the one on my digital thermometer. If it's submersible, I think this might be just what the dr. ordered.
 

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Jehmco sells a temp controller for aquariums. Unfortunately, it's a bit pricey. You can adjust the controllers to about 5 degrees higher than heater is set at. So if the heater does shorts out and stays on, the controller should stop it from getting too high.
 

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I went and dug out my incubator to look at the Retitemp 500. The probe is all encased (looks to be injection molded all in one piece - probe and cord). The 500 in the model notates that it's good for controlling appliances up to 500 watts, so if your heater is more than that you will have to go up a model to the 1000 watt controller (they make one). The temp range is 70-100 F, so that is in the right range. I was skeptical when I bought it for my incubator, that it would be repeatable, reliable, and sensitive enough, but it was. And this is a less sensitive application - just set it a degree or two above your heater setting, and it should only ever engage if your heater malfunctions. I don't know about their other products, as this is the only one I have experience with. But this one did work, and work well.
 

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Jehmco sells a temp controller for aquariums. Unfortunately, it's a bit pricey. You can adjust the controllers to about 5 degrees higher than heater is set at. So if the heater does shorts out and stays on, the controller should stop it from getting too high.
Usually its the other way around. You use the controller to control the heaters (set the controller to the right temp), then increase the setting on your individual heater to like 5* or whatever higher than the controller.
 

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Well, the way I used it for the incubator is similar to the way it would be used for a tank heater failsafe - to cut power if the temp exceeds a temp point. I had my flexwatt (heat source for the incubator - it has no control at all, if it gets power, it heats) plugged into the Reptitemp, and set it to cut off at 99.5 degrees and it would activate within half a degree, so if the temp dropped to 99.0 it would turn back on, and when it got to 99.5, it would cut power to the heat source. I think this is the standard way they work with reptile heat pads, what they are designed to control, but I'm not a reptile person so can't say beyond that. I think at least some of the reptile heat pads don't come with any thermostatic control, that they are made to be used plugged into a product such as the Reptitemp.
 
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