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Otocinclus observations and tips

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47K views 68 replies 23 participants last post by  miktrebor  
#1 ·
These guys can be really hard to keep alive through the acclimation period. I am by no means an expert on otos. I had seven die on me last year. But I am trying again now; and would like to pass on some observations and possible tips.

1. Get healthy otos to begin with. Pay really careful attention to how they behave in the fish store! Many of us have heard that so many otos are shipped in terrible condition and are barely hanging on in the LFS before making their way to you, where they promptly or eventually die. I went to a fairly reputable LFS to get otos in two batches last year -- they all eventually died. A couple died within a week; the rest died over the next 3-5 months. Now it *definitely* could have been my fault that they died! But I have also been realizing after watching a million YouTube videos that my otos NEVER acted healthy from the beginning, and that I don't think I actually knew how healthy otos behave, which made me very uninformed as a consumer when I went to the LFS. I have since gone to the home of a top-notch online seller and fish expert whose otos are in perfect condition. I am now in Day 2; all 8 have survived 48 hours, including the 8-hour journey in the car back to my house. I did the " plop and drop" acclimation method - it worked fine. Fingers crossed!

My observation is that these healthy otos graze in a relaxed, graceful and continual motion throughout much of the day. They do rest for stretches of time, but they are not usually either hyperactive, darting like crazy, or super-dormant, for too long. They are not merely nocturnal; healthy otos will swim around in open water during the daylight. They have fairly full stomachs, with their white bellies protruding a little. And their color is fairly dark, not red or translucent around the head or sides.

2. Get otos in quantity. I think I made the mistake of never having more than 4 otos at one time. And one or two of them were usually ill. So far, my 8 otos are not shoaling, but I do notice them fairly close together a lot of time. I think this helps them, especially in the beginning when they are adjusting to new surroundings.

3. Have a mature quarantine tank with algae growth. I've kept a quarantine tank going for several months continuously - the last 2 months without any fish (just add fish flakes to keep the bacteria cycle going). There was a lot of algae growth - 95% of which was consumed by the 8 otos within 2 days. I'm happy they had good food to begin with. They also devoured a cucumber slice. Hooray.

4. WATCH for issues in the first several days. Here's my story: so this morning of Day 2, I noticed that 2, possibly 3 of the otos were breathing really fast and doing that sickly oto thing (not moving much, hiding). Must be some kind of stress from water parameter issue - I can't pick up anything noticeable in my water testing, but I have been down this road before with otos and it has never ended well. Some usually die within a day or two of the fast breathing stage. Others hang on for weeks or months. But they have all died. So I was really anxious this morning. Here's what I did, and after five or six hours, it has apparently WORKED (the fast breathing stopped and the otos are acting relaxed and non-shy again).

(a) partial water change (about 20%).
(b) inserted another strip of Polyfilter in tank (if you haven't heard of Polyfilter, look it up - I am using it for the first time) to adsorb/absorb bad stuff.
(c) repositioned my airtube bubbler to create a much stronger oxygen current in the tank. The water surface is actually wobbly now.
(d) clipped some algae-grown leaves from my non-quarantine tank and threw them in the quarantine tank w the otos (theory: the microorganisms and bacteria and algae on the leaves are familiar and comforting and nutritional to the otos and good for the water quality).

I'm not sure which of the above was most responsible for the return to normal behavior, but I am going to repeat this in the future if a problem arises.

Stay tuned. Here are a few photos of the little guys now.
 

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#27 ·
Hi all. It's been so long since my original post. Silver lining is that the one oto I had left from over a year ago made it through and is still with me. I swore off otos for the past year because I didn't think it was humane knowing that I don't have the right parameters or conditions. But I didn't want to keep the remaining oto in isolation forever (which makes him super shy - he has a dark spot he goes to whenever the light turns on). So I broke down and got another one a week ago. So far so good. My other oto went nuts and has been following around the new one everywhere at night - so interesting. Two notes: 1) I ditched the quarantine for the oto, while putting other new acquisitions in quarantine. I didn't want to subject the oto to 2 water changes, and clearly my existing quarantine either didn't have enough algae buildup or the right conditions in the past, so I took the risk. 2) I noticed some stress after day 2, so I killed the light and co2. This helped. I also did a water change and slightly lowered my Gh (which is higher than the LFS). Oto is OK after 1 week....but I know this is only half the battle...I won't feel good unless it survives another 2-3 weeks. Its stomach seems not full, but not empty. Hasn't taken to zucchini or Repashy yet as far as I can tell. It has nibbled on glass and plant algae....
 
#28 ·
I've had reasonably luck with otos, but it seems like I always lose one or two out of each batch of four to eight I purchase. The rest strengthen up and do fine. I've tended to write this off to the reputation they have for being in poor shape by the time they reach my LFS.

It helps to have a LFS you trust. Oddly, mine is a Petsmart. I know, but the help in the aquarium section all have their own aquaria, and are knowledgeable, and their fish are always well stocked and seem to be in good shape. My other choices include a Petsmart half the distance away that is not well run. I go there only for rush supplies and packaged fish food, not for live fish. Their plants are okay ... when they have any decent ones in stock.

We have a very local chain (two locations) that ought to be good, and I do go by occasionally, but I am put off by their tendency to keep a few guppies in the plant tanks. Why??

But I've gotten a batch of ich even from my favorite LFS. It's too easy for a fish to pick up ich further up the supply chain, and not be obviously ill in the LFS. I picked up my last batch of ick that way. I've been skeptical of quarantine, but I don't dare not do it any more, and my new 20-gallon quarantine tank just arrived and I set it up last night. Seeded it with water from my old tank, let its bio filter sit in my display tank filter for a couple of days to inoculate it as well, and then spiked the water to 4 ppm ammonium to get the cycle going. I'll post pictures tonight.
 
#29 ·
@miktrebor how did that new Oto come along?

I recently got my first Otocinclus. Acclimated for an hour and it was dead by the next morning... Then I found out about its reputation when I was googling to see what was wrong. I definitely noticed it wasnt eating, kind of just stuck to the glass or other flat surfaces. Since it was the last one at my LFS I decided I probably just got an already sick one.

A few days ago I got 3 more from a different LFS that had just got them in that day. I put them into my cpd 20 gallon breeder tank that had an algae bloom and so there was a LOT of algae for them. This time I noticed them actually eating, pooping and moving around. I was pretty stoked when I found them still alive the next morning.

Frustratingly though, 3 days ago (so 4 days since I bought them) I found one dead and then today another has died. I dont think their bodies looked abnormal or sickly in anyway. The 3rd and last one alive seems to behaving normally.

Its a bit of a bummer, especially when here in Australia these fish cost up to $25! (~$20USD)
 
#30 ·
Sorry to hear about the oto deaths. I am no expert. I think there is a lot out of our control, including their care and transport before they arrived at - and also at - our local fish store. I am happy report that I have had two healthy otos for a year+ now with no issues. After witnessing multiple oto deaths I can say it is so true that once they get through the first few months they are so easy. (And I almost never have any other fish deaths- they almost always live for years- just otos, in the first couple of months.) I wish I had more so they would feel more comfortable swimming around during the day, but my planted tank is too small to accommodate more.

In the future, should I get more otos, I am going to focus on proper acclimation to their new tank water and making sure the quarantine tank is optimally hospitable. Even though I have had a 20g quarantine tank running on and off for years with live plants and algae growth, it doesn’t always have the best conditions for sensitive fish like otos. My observation is that quarantines (or main display tank) need to be super mature, with lots of water flow, space, plants, microorganisms and stable water conditions - the more like a “real” tank the better. True for all fish of course but especially otos in the first several months. Good luck in the future!
 
#31 ·
Also it is like threading a needle getting otos at an LFS. If you snatch them up when first available at the LFS they likely still haven’t adjusted from their incredible journey from wherever. And if you wait too long, they may succumb soon after arriving at your home because of extended time under poor conditions typical of many LFS tanks. Sigh.
 
#33 ·
I’ve been an oto buff for a long time, and the two keys I’ve found to keeping them them repeatably healthy have been to deworm them heavily on purchase, and to feed them properly like any other fish. Foraging otos are hit or miss, but I’ve kept 30 in a 20 long with no issues for a year by just feeding them properly.

My water here is on the hard side (8.2, tds 280 ish), but I’ve had at least a half dozen spawns over the last year and have had fry raise up to adulthood.

My last batch started with a brand new uncycled barebottom tank, and after a month I still had 17/19. Uncycled was because I didn’t have an aquarium going at the time to steal media from, and bare bottom is intentional to force them to eat “people food”, or non algae food. Once they know veggies are food, theyre still effective tank maintenance staff but they don’t starve out. Diet is a rotation of Repashy Soilent Green and a bit of community mixed in, red pepper, and zucchini. Three rounds of PraziPro separated by 4-5 days, change water as needed.

According to the oto paper referenced earlier it should be impossible to breed them at this pH, but it isn’t. The adults stay healthy too.
 
#38 · (Edited)
I've had good luck with a school in the past, I think that a lot of these So. American Loricarids, really need some fiber in their diet, and the best is from driftwood. They will continually clean and scour driftwood, and from what I've read from breeders of Bristlenose and other plecos is that most of these suckermouth fish primarily eat the biofilm that forms on driftwood.

I have a few photos of my 50 tall from back in the '90's which had a few good sized pieces of river driftwood gathered from a local river.

This image has a lone Cory Pygmaeus but the branch behind it was the Cory and Oto condo and both were very industrious about working it over.
when not resting within the tangle of Java Fern.


At the lower edge of this shot, below the Male Dicrossus beating a retreat into the plants, you can see the edge of a large piece of driftwood that spanned the front of the tank. It was often times ragged with diatoms and green film and spot algae and the Cories and Otos loved grazing this piece. I think it was an old piece of Alder as it was a little soft in spots and it slowly lost it's volume to the action of the Otos over a few years time.


I also grew a lot of Oakleaf Water Sprite in this tank and it's older leaves were regularly munched to stubs by the Otos.

 
#41 ·
I did the " plop and drop" acclimation method - it worked fine. Fingers crossed!
Hi @miktrebor

I have some difficulty accepting this term "plop and drop acclimation". To me, it's a contradiction in terms. There is no acclimation (or acclimatization as we would say in Old Blighty). So, this approach seems wrong to me. Otos are tiny fish whose osmoregulatory system must surely be tested to the limit when transferred instantly from one set of water parameters to another. It's not just electrolyte balance but pH, temperature, etc. Unfortunately, I can't provide any evidence to prove that this method is flawed. If this method has the potential to stress fish, then perhaps this will make the fish more susceptible to infection?

Anon
 
#63 ·
Hi @miktrebor

I have some difficulty accepting this term "plop and drop acclimation". To me, it's a contradiction in terms. There is no acclimation (or acclimatization as we would say in Old Blighty). So, this approach seems wrong to me. Otos are tiny fish whose osmoregulatory system must surely be tested to the limit when transferred instantly from one set of water parameters to another. It's not just electrolyte balance but pH, temperature, etc. Unfortunately, I can't provide any evidence to prove that this method is flawed. If this method has the potential to stress fish, then perhaps this will make the fish more susceptible to infection?

Anon
Random update: So about a month and a bit after I responded to this saying my 1 otto was fine, I went away for a week, came back and could not find the otto at all. Presumably died at some point and eaten completely by the shrimp and cpds... Strange as it seemed fine when I left and a week isnt too long. Looked around to make sure it didnt jump or anything. All other fish and shrimp were fine and still are to this day.
sorry to hear that….You know I keep hearing that otos prefer being with other otos. They fail to thrive without company. So he may have just gotten a little bit too isolated and scared to do his normal amt of grazing for food…. I now have three otos, which are still hiding most of the day but I have noticed little bits of increased confidence in them grazing even during the day. I will never forget the one time that I had 8 otos, they just swimming around like a shoal. Completely different behavior than when i had fewer #s. It made me want to get more, but i was having issues keeping them alive so i went on a moratorium for a while. After another year or two of tinkering with the tank and my water parameters and adding plants and being a little bit better about acclimating new otos to my tank, my success rate is much better at keeping them alive. It could’ve been luck, but I think you just accumulate a lot of experience observing these critters and getting used to them. I swear that once they get through a certain period, they are nearly indestructible. One time I even horribly got one of the otos stuck in my cleaning sponge and I had to spend 10 minutes disentangling it. I swore it was a goner, but the next day he was swimming around like nothing happened!
 
#42 ·
So a I have an Oto related question, hoping someone may have an answer here. I originally got 4, one died. then plans changed so I bought 6 more, one of those died. No other deaths.

The issue... The original 3/4 just chilled wherever in the tank and grazed happily. They all did this when I got the 6 new ones as well. After about a week, maybe 5 days at the shortest, they all huddle together now in one corner behind the canister output where I also have bamboo and pothos stems. I rarely will see one of what I think is the originals out and about. But that's it. they have now stayed behind the output for about 4-5 days now. I did a water change and tested it, it's fine. This seems more behavior related and I don't check but maybe once or twice when it's dark. I don't see them in the main tank(They are up behind the output). It's a 33L and there are 8 of them, they should be obvious if they are out at night. they don't seem to be.

Anyway, thought it would subside after the water change, I was busy and had to put it off a little longer than I thought so I figured that was it. just beginning to worry about their health now.


Off side thought/question, I'm pretty sure there are at least two different types of Otos within each group. or are they just male/female. Some are lighter in color with more of a pattern while the others are dark and less pattern, just darker. These darker ones also seem slightly smaller.
 
#43 ·
So a I have an Oto related question, hoping someone may have an answer here. I originally got 4, one died. then plans changed so I bought 6 more, one of those died. No other deaths.

The issue... The original 3/4 just chilled wherever in the tank and grazed happily. They all did this when I got the 6 new ones as well. After about a week, maybe 5 days at the shortest, they all huddle together now in one corner behind the canister output where I also have bamboo and pothos stems. I rarely will see one of what I think is the originals out and about. But that's it. they have now stayed behind the output for about 4-5 days now. I did a water change and tested it, it's fine. This seems more behavior related and I don't check but maybe once or twice when it's dark. I don't see them in the main tank(They are up behind the output). It's a 33L and there are 8 of them, they should be obvious if they are out at night. they don't seem to be.

Anyway, thought it would subside after the water change, I was busy and had to put it off a little longer than I thought so I figured that was it. just beginning to worry about their health now.


Off side thought/question, I'm pretty sure there are at least two different types of Otos within each group. or are they just male/female. Some are lighter in color with more of a pattern while the others are dark and less pattern, just darker. These darker ones also seem slightly smaller.
Whoa! Maybe this is a seasonal thing, my Otos started hiding about 2 weeks ago. Clustered together in a corner.

Before I read this I was going to post if anyone had experience with them being sensitive to bug spray. I have gnats in my pots in the same room I'm growing seedlings.

Interesting, same behavior....
 
#45 ·
Are you sure its not a dissolved oxygen (DO) water issue? I don't have any personal experience with the fish (looking to maybe get a group soon) but from what I read they come from slow to medium flowing streams and rivers that are highly oxygenated. At night plants consume oxygen and given that the fish hover near the output of the filter at night it leads me to think you have a DO issue. The air pump helps break the surface to allow some Co2 escape but it is likely not enough and your fish might be dying of asphyxiation. Just an idea to investigate.
 
#52 ·
Mine haven't come back either. I haven't lost any. When I did a water change they all came out. pretty sure this was cause the filter was off. also a canister filter. I took this opportunity and pulled the 8, split them into 4's and now they are in two groups in my 10 gallon play tanks. they seem mostly nocturnal now, even though the first three were happily out and about all day. I don't see a lot of feeding from any of them but none are skinny either though. I have read these are difficult fish, I never understood how. This must be part of it. I read somewhere they were hard to please or something. picky with parameters? I don't recall.

I will say they seem a little better in these 10 gallon tanks which only have sponge filters. So Maybe it has something to do with the flow?
 
#54 ·
Hello @Aaronious and @miktrebor I bought 3 new Otocinclus, two of the three didn't care about the flow, one was stationary until I turned canister off.

This one locked in and didn't move until filter was off.
View attachment 1027642


This one started clearing leaf off...didn't care.
View attachment 1027643

So too high of flow may have something to do with behavior but is not the only factor. Will be buying a timer tomorrow to turn canister to a on/off program with always on when lights are off
 
#55 ·
Hello @Aaronious and @miktrebor I bought 3 new Otocinclus, two of the three didn't care about the flow, one was stationary until I turned canister off.

This one locked in and didn't move until filter was off.
View attachment 1027642


This one started clearing leaf off...didn't care.
View attachment 1027643

So too high of flow may have something to do with behavior but is not the only factor. Will be buying a timer tomorrow to turn canister to a on/off program with always on when lights are off
I still have my 8 split in two 10 gallons. They seem pretty happy these days. In these tanks are all new fish that are quarantining sort of. As I have never had a problem from this LFS. but they are all about the same size, I think this has calmed the Otos a good amount.
 
#58 ·
Two pieces of advice that I have not seen mentioned:

1) If at all possible purchase otto that have been sitting at the store for a couple of weeks or longer. That way the weak ones are not for sale by the time you purchase them.

2) Never put them in a new tank - always put them in a well established tank that is well decorated with wood and plants. The reason for this isn't just the obvious of swing in water chemistry and an established cycle but otto also feed heavily off of biofilm and that takes a while to build up.
 
#59 ·
Can't emphasize the mature tank enough!! A lot of oto won't take algae wafers, period. They will starve to death before taking wafers. Not all are like this but I'd say a good 60% of the otos I've dealt with are like this. Actively feeding them blanched veggies may work for most of them, but I've come acrossed a few that require aufwuchs, they have refused everything but aufwuchs and biofilm.
 
#61 ·
😂😂😂 my single oto taunts me all the time with his fat belly- I swear it's because I've held the "no less than 8 oto" rule for so long that he's just mocking me. I removed all his buddies when I was having filter issues and they were unhappy. He's the stubborn stand alone and he thinks he's a rummynose (he schools with them). Gotta love 'em.
 
#64 ·
I have 10 in a 40B - i normally find 9 nearly every day near the front waiting for when i feed the fishes. A couple of them are pretty large - i presume females - kind of wish i would end up with a lot of little ottos but they never seem to have an interest in spawning...
-
I have had them now for a year+. I had 4 that are over 1.5 years old and then picked up another 6 8 or 9 months ago.
 
#65 ·
From what I've been told by a couple that has managed to spawn their otos repeatedly ("not sure if vitatus or affinis but definitely one of the 2") it required specimen only tank and "optimal conditions" (I'm assuming targeted parameters). I've had a few do the dance but never actually successfully spawned.