[devocole]

Hi guys, here is my plumbed and not working system. I am going to check for air leaks tomorrow. I can't get any flow. I"m useing a quietone 6000 pump and .5 inch hose. I have the 0.5 inch hose because i had that size of lily pipes and hydor heater.

Here is some pictures of the plumbing. Any ideas or suggestions guys i don't know what to do next. Different pump? New plumbing?

Water comes in and hits the T on the back wall splitting to go to the CO2 reactor (this circuit is turned off right now as i can't get flow at all) and down the straight line off the back wall. Hits the T at the bottom where the reactor reconnects, and then one line to the pump. From the pump it goes to the ocean clear up to the hydor and then out.

 

[JDowns]

What size tank is this.

Just a quick couple things.

1. Trying to pull water that distance through 1/2 hose through a reactor and with that many elbows (T's) is going to greatly reduce that pumps effeciency with friction loss.

2. Why use a reactor in that flow direction when the canister itself would be just as effecient if not more so.

3. Your canister appears to be hooked up backwards. Water should flow through the pleats outside, into the center then out. If I'm not mistaken on the OC's the top port is the inlet, and the bottom port is the outlet.

Using 1/2 hose, canister hooked up backwards, and trying to pull water through a reactor, and adding more restriction with the heater is more than likely exceeding that pumps head limitation, which if I'm not mistaken is around 11ft, but don't quote me on that.

Ideally you want as large a diameter and as short as possible a run of intake as possible to minimize intake friction loss. Same for the output. As for the outputs I would put the heater on a seperate loop, and ideally the reactor.

So flow as such.

Out from tank to ball valve (valve as close as possible to pump, this way the line will hold enough water to self prime with the lily pipe).
From ball valve to input on pump
Output of pump to input on canister
Output of canister to tru wye (or T)

• Ballvalve to heater/reactor (any order). Ballvalve will regulate flow to these two units. (tank size is somewhat important to know here)
• Ballvalve to tank
• These two valves will act as a mixer for the two output legs, and allow you to maintain the canister

Join these two legs with another tru wye (or T) to the single output on the tank.

Use as large a diameter hose as possible. Restricting down to 1/2" is going to be a major loss, especially on the intake side. Without knowing all the specs its very difficult to give a full range of advice. There are a few spots you could utilize rigid pipe instead of hose and make life easier.

 

[SPECIAL||PLANS]

why do you need the splitters? couldn't you go to the filter and then to the reactor. the splitters seem unnecessary. my guess is that because your splitting the line with an equal size hose you will inevitably have pressure problems.

 

[JDowns]

Splitting the line gives you control so you can regulate the flow through the heater and reactor. More importantly for the reactor to adjust mixing of CO2. The other line essentially acts as a bypass/main flow, that you can also adjust. Most of this greatly hinges on tank size.

Ideally you would want any equipment; reactors, heaters, etc, after the canister. That way you are sending filtered water through them and minimizing maintenance and improving performance.

I would also recommend a quick disconnect prior to the lilly's. This will give you easy removal for cleaning without having to wrestle with stuck hoses, and minimize the risk of breakage. Not necessary but a nice touch and added insurance to expensive pipes.

 

[inkslinger]

I use Nu-Clear filter witch is the same as OC these filters are to be use for the pump to Push not Pull water thur the filter. The intake is on top an output is at the bottom ,
IMO: With all the Ywe, Tee's, Ball Valves, Reactors , Heater's and length of pvc use {or what ever you use} will reduce the flow of your output of your pump. A good pressure pump should be use for this kind of filter setup.
I got lucky to find a Blue Line 55 HD 1100 Pump on Ebay for $85. for my 110g tank. If you have a a smaller tank here is a nice pressure pump that can be use
http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=18055&cat=485&page=1
or shop around like i did if you are not in a rush. A pressure pump can handle a ball valve at the end of the line without damage to the pump also if needed.

 

[PDX-PLT]

Is the pump primed?

BTW, that Hydor heater is mounted horizontally. Hydor says it must be vertical.

 

[devocole]

Holly balls i've missed alot. Thanks for the advice.

1. Can you believe that the OC doesn't specify the outtake/intake in the manual, i just thought my arrangement was most logical looking the filter itself. Okay so switch that.

2. The Hydor needs to be vertical..... Good advice yikes.

3. Also getting rid of the reactor and putting it straight into the OC might be where i'm going.

4. Is the quiet 1 sufficient or wrong type of pump.

5. I'm also contemplating just paying extra for 3/4 lilly pipes and doing it all 3/4.

This is the best way to get straightend out, thanks a bunch. Addmittedly this wasn't well thought out and pretty much just plumbed by two idiots with crossed fingers. I saw a couple threads with hardline and flexible PVC which looked interesting.
Any other comments are more then welcome. Thanks so much

 

[jjp2]

I suggest you place the pump before the T. This will give you pressure through the filter and the reactor. Shorten the lines as recommended above. Use the largest tubing and plumbing as possible (3/4 or 1 inch) down into the pump. This will reduce the bottlenecks before the pump. On the other side, I would think you would want 3/4. You may need a larger pump to push the water through the plumbing.

 

[inkslinger]

With a good Pressure Pump you still could run your heater and co2 reactor on a 2 leg system . Run the filter on one side and ball valve to adjust too the heater an co2 reactor on the other side and at the end bring both back together to your outlet.