Newbie needs help with 75g plans

774 Views 7 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Jim Miller, Nov 5, 2010

Jim Miller

Discussion Starter · Nov 3, 2010

I'm slowly figuring out what I want to do with a 75g planted tank I hope to assemble in the spring.

After reading many threads/posts I think I want to have the bottom equipped with holes for bulkheads. From what I read I think that two holes are likely sufficient but I'm uncertain what the hole sizes should be. Also whether SCH80 or SCH40 is the recommended size for the bulkheads.

I'm completely clueless on saltwater equipment which seems to be the source for such predrilled tanks. Are overflow equpped SW tanks always drilled for two such holes? Or is it just presumed that a single hole is used as an outlet from the overflow and an external return is used over the top edge.

I'm usually pretty handy with tools but cutting glass would be totally new to me so I'm not too keen on drilling the bottom of a tank and finding out that I screwed up by wading through 75 gallons of water on my hardwood floors one morning.

All helpful advice welcomed as to how to get started.

For other bits I'm assuming:
Eheim 2078
inline heater
rex inline co2 reactor
10lb co2 etc
drop counter
4x T5NO lights (tbd mounting)
mts substrate with tbd cap
lots of plants
tbd fish

Thanks

Jim

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lauraleellbp

· #2 · Nov 3, 2010

What are you wanting to achieve drilling the bottom of the tank versus running your Eheim over the back as normal?

You can definitely drill if you want to, I'm just not sure what your goal is?

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Jim Miller

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 3, 2010

Hi Laura

Minimum clutter and less drip risk as a result.

I found glasscages.com that might be a good choice.

Tnx
Jim

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lauraleellbp

· #4 · Nov 3, 2010

You can drill a tank bottom yourself as long as it doesn't have tempered glass.

And I don't think you'll have more or less drip risk, either way.

Are you going to be installing overflows, etc?

I'm not really clear on how you want to set up your filter circuit (intake and returns) and maintain good flow if you want both coming out of the bottom of the tank?

If it's aesthetics that are your main reason in wanting to drill the tank, have you looked at going with glass pipeware for the filter intake and output instead?

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OverStocked

· #5 · Nov 3, 2010

I have never seen a premade 75g tank that did not have a tempered bottom. If it is custom, I would consider a 90 or deeper tank, since you are already paying for it.

If you plan to drill yourself, You will likely have to drill the back rather than bottom.

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Jim Miller

Discussion Starter · #6 · Nov 4, 2010

For circulation I've seen a couple of tanks setup with bottom drilling that plumb two intakes in the rear corners with that lateral piping covered by the substrate with the intakes mostly hidden by aquascaping. In those tanks there was a spraybar laterally across the rear that seemed to point upwards and towards the front that seemed to provide adequate circulation. However if that didn't work I could always provide an over the top return and hide it somehow. Any thoughts on the success for either?

I sent an email to www.glasscages.com asking for more info. They apparently temper the glass after drilling and before assembling. I'm planning on their low iron glass for the front and sides (Starphire.)

As to larger size I originally wanted a 120g but I don't have the interior structure in the available locations in this house to support the weight. A deeper 90g is just too deep for my arm length.

My only aquarium experience is as a teen (decades ago) and more recently around 2002 when I was fiddling with some small tanks after retiring. All of that taught me that fewer things over the edge of the tank would work better for my innate klutziness.

I'm targetting lower light levels, MTS and minimal dosing, low water change and trimming frequency to minimize my fiddling and just enjoy some slow growing aquascape and soothing pretty fishes. The CO2 is really to help with minimizing issues rather than supporting high light, high growth flora. I don't think relying on Excel for carbon would work for this size tank.

I set my goals probably higher than I might reach but if I don't aim high it will likely end up one of my typical messes. So I'm trying to get this right from the start with good research, planning and good advice from all of you.

I'm planning to do an initial setup in the garage to "proof" all the setup and connections before emptying the tank and moving to the office.

Glasscages also has some oak stands I'm considering.

thanks to all!

jim

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AquariumNoob

· #7 · Nov 5, 2010

Jim Miller said:
For circulation I've seen a couple of tanks setup with bottom drilling that plumb two intakes in the rear corners with that lateral piping covered by the substrate with the intakes mostly hidden by aquascaping. In those tanks there was a spraybar laterally across the rear that seemed to point upwards and towards the front that seemed to provide adequate circulation. However if that didn't work I could always provide an over the top return and hide it somehow. Any thoughts on the success for either?

I sent an email to www.glasscages.com asking for more info. They apparently temper the glass after drilling and before assembling. I'm planning on their low iron glass for the front and sides (Starphire.)

As to larger size I originally wanted a 120g but I don't have the interior structure in the available locations in this house to support the weight. A deeper 90g is just too deep for my arm length.

My only aquarium experience is as a teen (decades ago) and more recently around 2002 when I was fiddling with some small tanks after retiring. All of that taught me that fewer things over the edge of the tank would work better for my innate klutziness.

I'm targetting lower light levels, MTS and minimal dosing, low water change and trimming frequency to minimize my fiddling and just enjoy some slow growing aquascape and soothing pretty fishes. The CO2 is really to help with minimizing issues rather than supporting high light, high growth flora. I don't think relying on Excel for carbon would work for this size tank.

I set my goals probably higher than I might reach but if I don't aim high it will likely end up one of my typical messes. So I'm trying to get this right from the start with good research, planning and good advice from all of you.

I'm planning to do an initial setup in the garage to "proof" all the setup and connections before emptying the tank and moving to the office.

Glasscages also has some oak stands I'm considering.

thanks to all!

jim

Im not exactly a pro or anything but i recently set up a 75g.. Theres no way in hell your going to have "low" light levels with a 4x t5 fixture.. I have a 2xt5ho unit and thats already on the border between low and medium light, being 6 inches off the top of the tank with legs. If your going for low lighting and youll have a wooden canopy cover the top, id go with a 2x t5ho unit.. A LOT cheaper than a 4x t5 unit, and you save the hassle of hanging it and all.. most come with legs to clamp em onto the side of the tank or even just stand on the glass canopy.. If you dont have a canopy covering the top, then you might be better off going with the 4x and just hanging it.. i personally dont like the look of the hoses and lighting fixture on the top so i just bought the wooden canopy for like 140$.. i really dont see why youd want to go through the trouble of drilling and all when you can just run the hoses through the top??youd only see whatevers on the inside of the tank... you can put a background on and then you wont see anything.. again your choice.. but your just making everything a lot harder/complicated than it should be..

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Jim Miller

Discussion Starter · #8 · Nov 5, 2010

@AqNoob: My light was to be 4xT5NO rather than 4xT5HO. I wanted to get the light spread out across the tank hence the choice of 4xSLR rather than a dual bulb units. I've since decided that I'll more likely be using 2xT5NO to achieve the lower light levels.

I'll probably build my own canopy to install whatever light I end up with since I haven't seen anything I like. It's a personal preference thing.

Likewise the bulkhead vs over the top. I just prefer less visible. I realize it makes it more complicated.

Thanks for your input!

jim

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