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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My name is Lawrence I am a reef keeper for over 12 years. due to very busy schedule, high electricity and high cost to restocking after my fish collection died I decided to convert my 435 gallon see through into planted tank. I have a few friends that's expert in both fresh and reef tank but it's good to have another opinion. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454785550.811042.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454785577.662697.jpg

Dimension with 96"x 36" X 29" tall
Custom sump
Apex controlled
Lights will be LEDs ( I don't know what yet)
2 large avast media reactor for carbon and ???
200 gallon per day rodi and 75 gallon barrel for water changes
Anything I need ?

Plan to have 400 tetras, smaller fish
And 35 discus
Plants I don't know yet
Substrate I need some input




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Hi Lawrence, I'm Kathy who bought the 180 gallon peninsula from you in 2012. Love the tank, it is almost my dream tank.

Been occasionally checking in on your reef tank, it was amazing.

Hardscape. Decide if you are having wood and/or stone in there. Go big, you are great at scaping already. See local building supplies for rock and if you have access to private land harvest big bits of long dead manzanita. Popular right now are azalea stumps, spiderwood, so if you have any dead stumps that are solid without rot or insect damage soaking and drying to clean, remove bark and dirt and age will work as well.

CO2. Likely you will want it, get a 20 pound tank and double stage regulator. You will need at least 2 big reactors.

Fertilizers. Plants need it. Whether you dose a lot or a little it's fine but unless plants have some of all the essential nutrients they cannot grow and out compete algae.

Substrate, you know you are going for the best and the best is ADA Amazonia. Discus look best on light substrate so maybe planning islands with plants surrounded with pale sand would be the way to go. See ADA and The Green Machine videos for loads of ideas.

Sump. I broke out the teeth in the overflow [put a stainless steel mesh over which keeps fish from surfing better anyway] so I could run more water through the system without adding powerheads. Planted tanks need quite a bit of water movement and I didn't want equipment in the tank. 10x tank volume is one benchmark but I probably am getting only 5x and it is fine.
 

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Welcome to TPT, Lawrence

Your tank will undoubtedly make for a fabulous dramatic display of a large group of discus, and whatever other dither fish you care to select to keep with them.

Here's a few bits of advice from a long-time discus-keeper (35 years):

- The size of your tank will not be conducive to large, frequent wcs which is 'lifeblood' to maintaining healthy discus. But to be successful keeping discus in your tank, you'll need to seriously consider doing at least one fairly large wc per week, hopefully in the 25% of water volume range, or more.
This relatively low level of fresh wcs necessitates that you get adult, or near adult discus to avoid growing out poorly-shaped or stunted discus - I'd suggest no less than 4" specimens, preferably larger, and obtained only from a highly reputable commercial discus supply source , well-known for supplying high quality fish.

That's 50% of meeting the challenge to being successful keeping discus.
Let me know your location and I'll be glad to direct you to the best sources for acquiring quality fish.

- The second most important criterion is maintaining the highest possible level of water quality & conditions for the (expensive) discus, which is where your primary focus should rest. If this means lowering your priorities when it comes to growing plants & having lots of décor, then so be it. One of the best ways of achieving this is to keep things as simple and 'simplistic' as possible, to avoid creating conditions which can make it difficult to keep your tank as squeaky clean as possible.

That of course includes substrate which can be difficult to keep free of wastes that may cause the development of undesirable bacteria, etc.
In a tank of that size, I would aqua-scape frugally, giving the discus lots of free swimming space & making it very easy to undertake a good tank cleansing routine.

To me that also would mean installing only a thin layer of pool filter sand (say 1/2" in the open areas) and no more than 2" - 2.5" in the rear areas decorated with rooted plants. (Use root tab ferts). A few large driftwood pieces with plants attached can complement your décor (e.g. Anubias - Java Ferns).
I'd be more than happy to help you along through your project in any way I can, so please don't hesitate to PM me any time.
Best of luck to you & regards,
Paul
P.S. Suggest you do some homework on discus-keeping and you could start by having a read through my "Beginner's Guide to Getting Started with Discus, located here in the "FISH' section, within the first & only sticky, titled 'Articles & FAQ'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you
It will be a while before I put discus in the tank
I want the plants to stabilized the tank first then add few tetras after qt ( how do you qt fresh water fish ?)
For filtration I think of using filter 3 socks and 50 lbs of cerameco detox blox

Another question is can I add ozone and uv to the tank to keep the water clean?
 

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First off and to my knowledge, filter socks, detox blox, and ozone are strictly marine & reef applications, and I've not heard of them being used in FW discus aquariums. Main filtration methods used in FW discus tanks, are sumps, sponge filters, HOB filters, and canisters.
Can't envision how the foregoing reef applications can produce singular, sought after benefits in FW set-ups that make them worth considering - depends on the media used I suppose.
I have used UV sterilizers on a regular basis in my discus tanks to good advantage for assisting to maintain good water quality & conditions.

Quarantining must be done properly and with care when adding other fish species to discus tanks. Discus are generally introduced first into fishless cycled tanks, with dither fish added after the discus have become accustomed to their new surroundings and have adopted a comfortable routine. Doing it the other way around may be more problematic given the size of discus vs. the usual sizing of QT tanks, and may cause undue stress to discus (which is where the focus needs to be).
When the time comes, I'd be glad to walk you though a proper QT.
 

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Planted tanks are dirty, socks can be a pain but some people here do use them. The 5x5 prefilter of coarse foam over the drain lasts a week for me but some people get to change out socks every other day. No idea about the filter media, probably just fine so long as it isn't meant to strip out plant nutrients.

UV is useful for water borne algae but will remove some essential plant nutrients so isn't run all the time, easy enough to put on your tank controller. Nothing about ozone use has stuck in my head, don't know if it is useful or not.
 

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I love the use of filter socks in my tanks, I swap them out weekly and you won't see any more maintenance in a planted tank than you did with your reef. Uv is a good tool to have in your case but as mentioned I'd put it on a timer or only switch it on as you see fit. I keep them around for infections or algae blooms.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What's the best method use in fresh water
Tank transfer
Or copper ?

From what I read little about most just observe them for few weeks

I am using a larger micron sock so I don't have to change much. Also I am using a less powerful return pump maybe a dc 1200 instead of a Laguna 2900

My tank is still reef right now but I am breaking it down this week but It will be a long process. I have to polished the tank, aquascape, plant then add fish after few weeks of qt then Plan to have a discus by summer. I will qt them in 150 gallons to be comfortable but I don't know how can I medicate them before heading to the big tank .


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