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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I am in hobby from 3-4 years now, this is my 2nd scape. Previous tank was all covered in BBA so had to re do it. Please suggest how to fight bba. ( older scape 1 picture is attached. 2 pictures of current scape)
 

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The way to control any algae is through the right balance of maintenance, light and nutrients. Nobody can help you unless they know what you're doing with your maintenance, light and nutrients.
 

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Best way to fight algae is to have a large and healthy plant mass.
With healthy plants, they fight the algae for you and the amount of healthy plants in my aquarium directly correlates to how much algae my tanks get. (light intensity/co2/ferts all in good levels)

Your original setup didn't have much plant mass at all for the light level you have installed.

Co2 and fert levels play a part in this because they provide the nutrients for the plants to become healthy, but you can still have a healthy tank without Co2 if you tune the light levels. This can be seen in MD fish tanks' videos where he doesn't run Co2, but he does generally raise the lights to at least 30cm above the water level along with dimming them if possible to get the correct light intensity for higher-powered fixtures.

The above is the hardware/additives for the tank to provide healthy plants. There's another aspect to healthy plants, and that's regular maintenance, like weekly water changes to keep the water clean.
When I start getting algae, I do 2x weekly water changes and might even go to 3x weekly water changes because something has caused an issue in the aquarium and the cleaner the tank is the better I find the plants can grow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Today I noticed some BBA on soil, not sure what is causing it. I did scrap my last set up due to bba and its coming back again.
something is not right but not able to identify what ?

Tank size:
L 24 inch
W 12 inch
H 15 inch

Equipment i am using:

Twinstar m5 sterilizer
Twinstar 600es light
CO2
Eheim external filter
Tropica Fertilizer (green & orange)
 

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You have got a nice scape. Good potential once it grows out. You have all the right equipment for a high energy setup.

The external filters output would create enough flow in the tank I believe. The Twinstar is very capable light and at your tanks height can throw a lot of par at the substrate.

Your layout is lightly planted with a lot of bottom being inert substrate (I think) and hence no plants in the foreground. But those areas could still be getting a lot of high light. I guess your light is already positioned to the rear half of the tank such that the background gets the direct intensity of the light, great.

What’s the photo period? I would suggest starting out with a 4 hour photo period with lights at 50-60% intensity and then upping the intensity and the photo period in 30 min increments per week to take to 8 hours.

Secondly how do you know that you have sufficient co2 in the tank? Are you using a drop checker or have your measured your pH drop? What’s your bubble rate? If there are no animals in your tank yet, you should just crank up the co2 to 2-3 bps and start the co2 2 hours prior to photo period.

If the external filter is new, is your tank cycled? Are you using RO water or tap? Tap water could also have excess nutrients that algae could latch on.

What is your current fertilising routine? Too much fertz could also lead to imbalance. What substrate are you using? Wanted to understand substrate fertilisation and if dosing can we avoided or reduced initially. Finally what’s the temperature?


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Co2 1bps.
I have not checked PH and I am using tap water which is RO water.not using any fertilisers at this moment, I have tropica ferts but I am not using them as my exp with it is not good. Every time I used it it produced BBA.
Iight timings are 9am to 1pm and then from 2:15 to 6pm ( around 8 hours a day).
You have got a nice scape. Good potential once it grows out. You have all the right equipment for a high energy setup.

The external filters output would create enough flow in the tank I believe. The Twinstar is very capable light and at your tanks height can throw a lot of par at the substrate.

Your layout is lightly planted with a lot of bottom being inert substrate (I think) and hence no plants in the foreground. But those areas could still be getting a lot of high light. I guess your light is already positioned to the rear half of the tank such that the background gets the direct intensity of the light, great.

What’s the photo period? I would suggest starting out with a 4 hour photo period with lights at 50-60% intensity and then upping the intensity and the photo period in 30 min increments per week to take to 8 hours.

Secondly how do you know that you have sufficient co2 in the tank? Are you using a drop checker or have your measured your pH drop? What’s your bubble rate? If there are no animals in your tank yet, you should just crank up the co2 to 2-3 bps and start the co2 2 hours prior to photo period.

If the external filter is new, is your tank cycled? Are you using RO water or tap? Tap water could also have excess nutrients that algae could latch on.

What is your current fertilising routine? Too much fertz could also lead to imbalance. What substrate are you using? Wanted to understand substrate fertilisation and if dosing can we avoided or reduced initially. Finally what’s the temperature?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I suspect that your co2 injection is not measuring up to the light. 1 bps may be sufficient or it may be deficient. Without drop checker or by measuring pH drop cannot say for sure. Also with animals in the tank you cannot crank up the co2 without knowing how much is too much. A good pH and TDS meter are a must, would suggest a pen type that we get from amazon. Drop checker is a good way to gauge the co2 concentration as well. One of the two ways is a must to understand how much co2 your tank needs because every tank is unique. The 1bps is a start.

The siesta between the photo period is more suitable for low energy tanks since it gives an opportunity for co2 build up during the co2 period. I do not see this being used much for the high energy tanks.

You can also try the reverse, ie reduce the photo period to 4 hours keeping the co2 at 1 bps. You can check if that reduces the problem a bit. If this helps, then you can increase co2 and photo period in step increments.

You have not specified if you use a solenoid valve on timer to time the start of co2 ahead of the lights. And how this works with the siesta period.

Fertz are not optional in a high energy setup. Your water may have some nitrates from filtration and fish food may supply some phosphates and some micros. But without fertz you will be short of potassium and micros.

If you are not happy with tropica, look for aquatic remedies fertz on amazon. Imo they are more readily available and beginner friendly. They are also cheaper because they are much less concentrated. They also have a k++ which supplies potassium, CA, mg and micros.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I will reduce the light to 4 hours and will get some fert. All the systems are automated and timer based. Will also get the PH meater and check PH.

Only problem I see is BBA, I can see some BBA on soil.


l
I suspect that your co2 injection is not measuring up to the light. 1 bps may be sufficient or it may be deficient. Without drop checker or by measuring pH drop cannot say for sure. Also with animals in the tank you cannot crank up the co2 without knowing how much is too much. A good pH and TDS meter are a must, would suggest a pen type that we get from amazon. Drop checker is a good way to gauge the co2 concentration as well. One of the two ways is a must to understand how much co2 your tank needs because every tank is unique. The 1bps is a start.

The siesta between the photo period is more suitable for low energy tanks since it gives an opportunity for co2 build up during the co2 period. I do not see this being used much for the high energy tanks.

You can also try the reverse, ie reduce the photo period to 4 hours keeping the co2 at 1 bps. You can check if that reduces the problem a bit. If this helps, then you can increase co2 and photo period in step increments.

You have not specified if you use a solenoid valve on timer to time the start of co2 ahead of the lights. And how this works with the siesta period.

Fertz are not optional in a high energy setup. Your water may have some nitrates from filtration and fish food may supply some phosphates and some micros. But without fertz you will be short of potassium and micros.

If you are not happy with tropica, look for aquatic remedies fertz on amazon. Imo they are more readily available and beginner friendly. They are also cheaper because they are much less concentrated. They also have a k++ which supplies potassium, CA, mg and micros.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
All plants are doing good, but I did notice some hairs on Crypt leaves, not sure if it is bba. Also noticed two plants are melting. Tank is 16 days old it’s bit late for new plant to melt down. I did reduce the photo period to 7 hours and increased co2 as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
BBA is almost gone, hair algae is also gone, I think i found the issue and fixed it.
My tank was only half planted with slow growing plants with CO2, ADA Ferts & Twinstar light. the amount of nutrient were not consumed and it caused the algae boom so started working on replanting some fast growing plants and it solved my problem.
Now plants are growing good. and algae is also vanishing slowly. with regular water changes and and weekly maintenance it will be gone..

Plants are not pearling yet.

Attaching latest pics, please take a look and suggest if I am missing anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
New Problem !!!

The tank was doing grate, no new algae growth, existing algae is slowly disappearing but all of a sudden in 3 days I lost 24 shrimps.
so I waited for a week did two large water changes and added 10 Amano shrimps last Sunday but they keep dying lost the last one a few mins ago.

I am not sure about the reason but I suspect after changing the water I did not add anti-chlorine liquid. OR we recently did herbal pest control and that could be the second reason.

Please suggest what should I do, and when can I add shrimps again.
 

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