[matt769]

Hi everyone!

Just wanted to introduce myself, I'm Matt, 23 from Worcestershire, UK!

I came across the forum after scrolling the internet and thought this would be the best place for me to find the answers to any questions I had and to also share my setup once it is complete!

So, I used to keep tropical fish (guppies, mollies, angles, pleco etc), gold fish and turtles when I was younger and living with my parents but I had to sell these when I went to uni as no one could look after them.

However, now that I have moved out and have my own place I decided I wanted to venture into the art of fish keeping again!

I wanted to get a larger tank than my previous 45cm one. I went to a shop and asked for a quote and was surprised at the cost of it, however they had a deal that they could offer me on a larger tank... which I went for!

I have ordered, and will be made by mid February a 84" x 24" x 24" tank with metal frame, with sliding glass covers and no lid (just under 800litres)

I would really like to create a planted community aquarium/aquascape after watching numerous videos on YouTube, including aquascape and George Farmer.

If you've read this far, then you may be interested and able to help me as I post questions, progress pictures etc of this tank build

I've got a few things on my shopping list to buy between now and getting the tank so i will list these below:

Heater
For this I am planning on getting 2x 400w (or 1x 500w and 1x 300w) with a wavemaker to distribute the heat around the tank.
If anyone has recommendations for the best internal ones that are energy efficient then that would be appreciated

Filter
For this I am unsure yet, but will be wanting an external filter that will be capable of providing the best quality filtration without spending a ridiculous amount of money!
If anyone has recommendations for the best internal ones that are energy efficient then that would be appreciated

Lighting
For this, I am wanting LED lights preferably due to running costs. But I am unsure what requirement of light or wattage is required for a planted tank of this size.
I remember having special lighting for my turtles in the past but I have no idea what I would need for the tropical fish or the plants.

Plants
I would like a planted aquarium, with easy to grow plants that aren't just going to die and that don't require co2.

Substrate
I would like to have a white sand substrate as I think this will look best against a black background and the green plants in my head. However reading online there appears to be issues with fine white sand, so I would be interested in a slightly courser white sand.

Would anyone recommend a substrate/aquatic soil to go under the sand to provide a long term place for the plants to properly root? I don't really want to be introducing fertilizers all the time due to expense and it not really being a natural or easy to keep setup then if that makes sense. I plan to have a plastic mesh between the two layers to stop them from mixing too much.

And then the recommended thickness of the soil and sand

Hardscape
Again, I will be looking for inspiration for what type to go for, and what will suit the fish I want. But due to the size I think this will be a pretty big tank to aquascape as a complete novice but I like a challenge! (as long as i am not endangering the life quality/health of the fish)

Fish
I am looking really to have a lot of smaller fish in a community tank. So I'd like to have a broad variety of colours, sizes, breeds etc with no preference to any.

Below are the types that I have thought of so far - I would preferably like to get a male and female of each (or the correct ratio) to encourage the chances of breeding. I would really like to be able to breed the fish as its something I've always wanted to do, so if you have any advise on this or how to encourage them then that would great

The list I have come up with so far is: (But if anyone would suggest any other exciting community fish and where to source them then fire away)

Guppies
Mollies
Platies
Annaplebs
Zebra danios
Rosy red minnows
Sword tails
Killifish
Gourami
Betta – only one male
Pleco - any specific breed?
Rainbowfish
Corydoras

Sorry for the long essay!

If I have missed anything blindly obvious or if anyone has any suggestions/words of wisdom before I spend any more money, all will be gratefully received

Many thanks

Matt

Bump: Forgot to add,

I am also interested in getting cherry shrimp, amano shrimp.

Would any recommend snails at all?

I am also curious about the tropical freshwater lobsters and crabs you can get.

And finally, but I probably wont! But the aquatic frogs that you can buy

It's a big tank and I'd like a variety but id like everything to somewhat get along with each other (not fight), I acknowledge that some (shrimp) will become food!

Any reason why anyone would not recommend getting any of the above would be appreciated

Cheers

 

[kgbudge]

800 liters. I'm drooling.

I am very fond of rainbowfish. I previously kept discus, but they're hard enough without trying to keep them in a planted tank. 'Bows seem to do well in planted tanks.

Frogs and crabs need somewhere to be emersed. But in a tank that big, you can certainly arrange for part to be out of the water. My understanding is that shrimp won't survive long except with the smallest, most peaceful fish. Nerite snails are fine and are very useful scavengers/algae eaters; I have four or five in my 55-gallon (210-liter) tank.

"Easy-going plants that don't need CO2" likely translates to plants that are fairly slow growing: Java moss and fern, some swords, some crypts. These also don't need tons of light.

 

[Discusluv]

When I see a build I am by nature first drawn to what fish are going into the system.
I have a 180 gallon tank, so I am able to envision the dimensions of this tank pretty closely.

I have some recommendations:

To decide on fish for an aquarium you need to first think in zones: top tier, mid, and lower. Where will the fish you are most excited in keeping reside?

You also need to think in scale. If you are doing all smaller fish it looks much better to do only 1- 3 types of small fish in the top to mid tier. So they can all move in a wave together and match the scale of the tank itself. Many different colors/species will not match the scale of the tank-- it will look like a multitude of polka dots ( kinda like "noise") all going their own way. Actually, it looks best to have one species and variant in a tank of this size [it has been shown that fish school by sight: schooling behavior initiated by similar color and pattern of fish near them]. Having one small species in top to mid tier will give that spectacular look of a flock of birds in the sky and match the large dimensions of the tank.--- but, many people are against having to use 1 species in a tank of this size. Its understandable.

It sounds like you are interested in having some small, medium, and larger fish in each zone.
I would recommend to, firstly, pick a primary fish for each zone. Picking one fish from each zone that will shine in these zones, become familiar with their needs: temperature, feeding, breeding/behaviors.
Once this is established and you know each of these fish basic need, then, you select 2 more fish to compliment the primary fish of each zone.

This way you will have thought out your additions to the tank; making sure that the fish chosen are compatible in behaviors, temperature, feeding ( no fish making it difficult for another species to feed.
As it is now, you have too many species and incompatibilities. I do not think it will turn out as you envision.

 

[minorhero]

Hello and welcome!

Going from a 45 cm tank to a custom made 200 gallon tank... you certainly know how to jump into the deep end!

So a few things. You mentioned a few times that you wanted to keep costs low and you wanted to do things economically.. Well this is not an economical setup. The bigger tanks make everything more expensive, sorry but its going to cost a lot of money to make this work. If you wanted to moderately plant this tank (not even heavy plant, just moderate) you would probably need to spend 300 to 500 dollars on the plants alone. Lighting options for something like this should be pretty customizable since you don't know what you are going to need yet or what you might need a year from now. Two fluval 3.0 lights going down the middle of this tank will cost you 180 dollars per light or 360 for both. If you decide to go with canister filters for this tank they will run you 500 a filter and you will need 2, so 1000 dollars for filtration. This would be the Fluval FX6. Or you could go with a sump (which is my recommendation). In which case you need to buy another tank to act as your sump. You want something that can hold 1/3rd of your tanks water volume so a 75 gallon standard sized tank would work well, thats another 150 dollars. The use of a sump needs to be accounted for in your stand choice, which if you don't build yourself will likely also cost you at least 300+ dollars (there is no real upper limit to what you can spend on a stand). You will need some odds and ends as well, a pump, some plumbing parts, bits of filter padding, silicone (this assumes you are building the sump yourself) etc. Call it 200 dollars on the low end. I would recommend using Pool filter sand for the substrate since it accomplishes your goals for aesthetics. They go for around 15 dollars for a 50 lb bag. You will likely need at least 2. You can cap aquasoil of your choice with this sand and it will work fine so long as you don't do something crazy and put down 10 inches of sand. Try to keep the sand layer no more then 2-3 inches deep. Below that you can put your aquasoil, getting at least an inch of aquasoil would be nice, more wouldn't hurt a thing. But those bags are expensive. Not sure how many you would need, but I am guessing at the very least 2-3.. so call it 100 dollars minimum for aquasoil.

Total cost to get this tank to a state you can add fish? 1440 dollars on the low end if you go with sump and buy a stand. Google tells me that this converts to 1097 pounds sterling.

I am also being pretty conservative here, you will likely spend more. That just gets you to a place where you can add fish, you still would need to do that. Plus doing a 50% water change on this tank is 100 gallons a week. Electricity, food, water they will add up. And you definitely will need to add fertilizer to this tank, you can't simply walk away from it and expect the plants to do well 6 months to a year from now.

If this is way outside of your budget, then my advice is to call up and cancel your order right now. If they are taking a month to build your tank then they probably haven't started yet.

On the other hand, if this expense is one you can make, then buckle up! Cause its going to be an awesome build.

 

[Discusluv]

Fluvel FX 6 filters are expensive, granted. But there are many places can get with free shipping for 700.00. No need to pay 1000.00 .
I actually got 2 for 550.00 on Cyber Monday on Amazon.

 

[butchblack]

Welcome

I've only been here a few months, having gotten back into the hobby after a long hiatus. A couple of thoughts on equipment. Consider using a couple of in-line heaters with a canister filter, less hardware in the tank and better heat distribution. I would also consider biting the bullet and setting up a CO2 system, it will allow you a broader choice of plants and even the ones that don't require CO2 will normally do better with some. Do your homework before buying lights. 24" is a tall tank, so you want to make sure enough light will reach the bottom.

When you finally add fish, make sure that you get fish that like the same water parameters, aren't aggressive or fin nippers.

Patience is key. I started my project in late Sept. I have my 20 gal "quarantine" tank up, running, and housing 7 corys. My 75 gal is set-up, running, cycled and half planted. I should be getting the rest of my plants in the next week. Once I plant them and determine everything is stable, I'll transfer the corys to it, then order the angels that I want, and quarantine them for a few weeks before putting them in the 75.

Good luck. Please start a tank journal here and let us see your progress.

 

[matt769]

800 liters. I'm drooling.

I am very fond of rainbowfish. I previously kept discus, but they're hard enough without trying to keep them in a planted tank. 'Bows seem to do well in planted tanks.

Frogs and crabs need somewhere to be emersed. But in a tank that big, you can certainly arrange for part to be out of the water. My understanding is that shrimp won't survive long except with the smallest, most peaceful fish. Nerite snails are fine and are very useful scavengers/algae eaters; I have four or five in my 55-gallon (210-liter) tank.

"Easy-going plants that don't need CO2" likely translates to plants that are fairly slow growing: Java moss and fern, some swords, some crypts. These also don't need tons of light.

I had thought of discuss and the shop assured me that they aren't as difficult to keep as they are known to be, although i like the discuss a kind of prefer other types of fish to them. But the colours are amazing but at £100+ a fish i can see why

I think that frogs and crabs were just a list all option and its not something that I will actually end up doing

I am planning on having a peaceful tank so I think that the shrimp should hopefully be okay with maybe a few casualties - I hear that they readily breed so Im sure they will restock themselves

Thank you ref the plants, these are ones that I have seen recommended before for no co2

Hello and welcome!

Going from a 45 cm tank to a custom made 200 gallon tank... you certainly know how to jump into the deep end!

So a few things. You mentioned a few times that you wanted to keep costs low and you wanted to do things economically.. Well this is not an economical setup. The bigger tanks make everything more expensive, sorry but its going to cost a lot of money to make this work. If you wanted to moderately plant this tank (not even heavy plant, just moderate) you would probably need to spend 300 to 500 dollars on the plants alone. Lighting options for something like this should be pretty customizable since you don't know what you are going to need yet or what you might need a year from now. Two fluval 3.0 lights going down the middle of this tank will cost you 180 dollars per light or 360 for both. If you decide to go with canister filters for this tank they will run you 500 a filter and you will need 2, so 1000 dollars for filtration. This would be the Fluval FX6. Or you could go with a sump (which is my recommendation). In which case you need to buy another tank to act as your sump. You want something that can hold 1/3rd of your tanks water volume so a 75 gallon standard sized tank would work well, thats another 150 dollars. The use of a sump needs to be accounted for in your stand choice, which if you don't build yourself will likely also cost you at least 300+ dollars (there is no real upper limit to what you can spend on a stand). You will need some odds and ends as well, a pump, some plumbing parts, bits of filter padding, silicone (this assumes you are building the sump yourself) etc. Call it 200 dollars on the low end. I would recommend using Pool filter sand for the substrate since it accomplishes your goals for aesthetics. They go for around 15 dollars for a 50 lb bag. You will likely need at least 2. You can cap aquasoil of your choice with this sand and it will work fine so long as you don't do something crazy and put down 10 inches of sand. Try to keep the sand layer no more then 2-3 inches deep. Below that you can put your aquasoil, getting at least an inch of aquasoil would be nice, more wouldn't hurt a thing. But those bags are expensive. Not sure how many you would need, but I am guessing at the very least 2-3.. so call it 100 dollars minimum for aquasoil.

Total cost to get this tank to a state you can add fish? 1440 dollars on the low end if you go with sump and buy a stand. Google tells me that this converts to 1097 pounds sterling.

I am also being pretty conservative here, you will likely spend more. That just gets you to a place where you can add fish, you still would need to do that. Plus doing a 50% water change on this tank is 100 gallons a week. Electricity, food, water they will add up. And you definitely will need to add fertilizer to this tank, you can't simply walk away from it and expect the plants to do well 6 months to a year from now.

If this is way outside of your budget, then my advice is to call up and cancel your order right now. If they are taking a month to build your tank then they probably haven't started yet.

On the other hand, if this expense is one you can make, then buckle up! Cause its going to be an awesome build.

Thank you for the reply!

I think some of the costs you've said are exaggerated or its certainly a lot more expensive in the US vs UK! I have costed up the plants at the moment and its only coming in at about £60 for a variety as they will grow and I can look after it rather than having a massively planted tank from the start.

Same goes with a $1000 filter! I have already one costed at £180 for a 3000l/h one

Thank you for the reference for the aquasoil - this is something that I have seen recommended online but theres been lots of options for capped and uncapped. I like the idea of an all in one substrate but the darker colours put me off, hence the idea for a courser light sand

Without sounding cocky if thats a phrase over there the budget isnt really an issue but i didnt want to be wasting money - for example the filter i am looking at is 50w, however another filter ive also seen thats suitable was 150w! So i didnt want to be buying poor energy efficient products. Ie i would pay more for a product if it used less energy over the next several years as it would work out cheaper to run

I am going to be running this through an energy monitoring plug so I can see what exactly it all costs me per month! Hopefully its not ridiculous but I wont be having to sell the setup in a month due to not being able to afford it

I think just from the reply the products in america seem to be alot more expensive on the face of it, unless they're just big numbers to put me off and to cancel my order! Haha

Bump:

When I see a build I am by nature first drawn to what fish are going into the system.
I have a 180 gallon tank, so I am able to envision the dimensions of this tank pretty closely.

I have some recommendations:

To decide on fish for an aquarium you need to first think in zones: top tier, mid, and lower. Where will the fish you are most excited in keeping reside?

You also need to think in scale. If you are doing all smaller fish it looks much better to do only 1- 3 types of small fish in the top to mid tier. So they can all move in a wave together and match the scale of the tank itself. Many different colors/species will not match the scale of the tank-- it will look like a multitude of polka dots ( kinda like "noise") all going their own way. Actually, it looks best to have one species and variant in a tank of this size [it has been shown that fish school by sight: schooling behavior initiated by similar color and pattern of fish near them]. Having one small species in top to mid tier will give that spectacular look of a flock of birds in the sky and match the large dimensions of the tank.--- but, many people are against having to use 1 species in a tank of this size. Its understandable.

It sounds like you are interested in having some small, medium, and larger fish in each zone.
I would recommend to, firstly, pick a primary fish for each zone. Picking one fish from each zone that will shine in these zones, become familiar with their needs: temperature, feeding, breeding/behaviors.
Once this is established and you know each of these fish basic need, then, you select 2 more fish to compliment the primary fish of each zone.

This way you will have thought out your additions to the tank; making sure that the fish chosen are compatible in behaviors, temperature, feeding ( no fish making it difficult for another species to feed.
As it is now, you have too many species and incompatibilities. I do not think it will turn out as you envision.

Thank you for your reply

I had not previously thought about the zones or known about them, i had briefly heard them mentioned in various YouTube videos but had not given it much thought

Thank you for your advice and i will certainly do more research into this and which is suitable

I think I didnt word the list right, but those were the list of fish that I think are peaceful community fish that would get along with eachother - didnt mean it to read that I would get everyone one of those! haha

I agree that it would look very good to have all of the same fish in a tank this big and its not out of the question

I plan to setup the tank, scape it and plant it and run it for at least a month before considering getting any fish

Bump:

Fluvel FX 6 filters are expensive, granted. But there are many places can get with free shipping for 700.00. No need to pay 1000.00 .
I actually got 2 for 550.00 on Cyber Monday on Amazon.

The shop near me is able to do a deal on them for me so its alot less than those prices

I was just trying to see what was best as there is a multitude of products available to someone like me who has no idea whats best haha

Welcome

I've only been here a few months, having gotten back into the hobby after a long hiatus. A couple of thoughts on equipment. Consider using a couple of in-line heaters with a canister filter, less hardware in the tank and better heat distribution. I would also consider biting the bullet and setting up a CO2 system, it will allow you a broader choice of plants and even the ones that don't require CO2 will normally do better with some. Do your homework before buying lights. 24" is a tall tank, so you want to make sure enough light will reach the bottom.

When you finally add fish, make sure that you get fish that like the same water parameters, aren't aggressive or fin nippers.

Patience is key. I started my project in late Sept. I have my 20 gal "quarantine" tank up, running, and housing 7 corys. My 75 gal is set-up, running, cycled and half planted. I should be getting the rest of my plants in the next week. Once I plant them and determine everything is stable, I'll transfer the corys to it, then order the angels that I want, and quarantine them for a few weeks before putting them in the 75.

Good luck. Please start a tank journal here and let us see your progress.

Cheers,

Yep im not trying to rush into anything as I want to try and get it right first time rather than messing up, spending excess amounts of money or worst case, killing fish!

Do you know roughly the costs/items involved in running a co2 setup? It's something that i have only known about this last weekend so i literally have no idea!

thanks

I am thinking of a more "rocky" landscape with planted towards the rear and left side of the tank with differing levels to allow for a space of open water and substrate on the right side of the tank

the left side will be into a 90degree corner so wont be seen

But i haven't decided anything yet and still viewing peoples setups for inspiration

 

[minorhero]

Thank you for the reply!

I think some of the costs you've said are exaggerated or its certainly a lot more expensive in the US vs UK! I have costed up the plants at the moment and its only coming in at about £60 for a variety as they will grow and I can look after it rather than having a massively planted tank from the start.

Same goes with a $1000 filter! I have already one costed at £180 for a 3000l/h one

Thank you for the reference for the aquasoil - this is something that I have seen recommended online but theres been lots of options for capped and uncapped. I like the idea of an all in one substrate but the darker colours put me off, hence the idea for a courser light sand

Without sounding cocky if thats a phrase over there the budget isnt really an issue but i didnt want to be wasting money - for example the filter i am looking at is 50w, however another filter ive also seen thats suitable was 150w! So i didnt want to be buying poor energy efficient products. Ie i would pay more for a product if it used less energy over the next several years as it would work out cheaper to run

I am going to be running this through an energy monitoring plug so I can see what exactly it all costs me per month! Hopefully its not ridiculous but I wont be having to sell the setup in a month due to not being able to afford it

I think just from the reply the products in america seem to be alot more expensive on the face of it, unless they're just big numbers to put me off and to cancel my order! Haha

Well I am very glad that you both are not put off by the cost and that things may be cheaper for you in the UK. The prices were not exaggerated but I also did not price them out in the UK. Prices either came from Amazon or my local fish store in Maryland. My local place sells the vast majority of plants for 5 to 15 dollars for a bundle/pot. Tissue cultures range from 10 to 20 dollars a cup. To give you an idea its not uncommon for me to buy 5 or 6 pots/bundles when redoing my 5 Gallon Fluval Spec 5 thus spending around 30-40 dollars on plants. The Spec V is 20.5 inches long and 7.5" wide. I also have hardscape in there as well taking up probably half the area.

My point only being that plants do not stretch as far as you might think. When starting off a new planted tank its very very common to get terrific algae blooms. This is due to the nutrients that leech out into the water and not being used up by plants. There is another theory that plants release chemical compounds into the water that inhibit or kill algae, thus the more plants the less the algae. We do not have good enough science on the subject to know which is correct. But we do know that the lower the ratio of plants to water/substrate the worse the algae.

So while waiting for plants to grow in is fine and good, you should not expect that you can stick say 10 pots of plants in an 84" inch 200 gallon aquarium, load it up on the light, fertilizer (possibly co2?) needed for those plants to live and not get absolutely blasted by algae. You are going to need to stick enough plants in there to fight the algae at the start. This does not mean you need to cover every surface, but certainly you should expect at least 30% of the substrate to be planted at a minimum. You should also focus (at least at the start) on fast growing stems to help with this as much as possible. If you covered every surface with something slow growing like anubias, you would still have problems.

Not to belabor the point but here you can see a video by George Farmer where he redid his 1200mm aquarium and ran into algae issues because he did not plant densely enough.

And here is the video where he talks about how he beat the algae by planting a lot more stems.

What is significant about this is that his aquarium is pretty densely planted but only about half the size of your aquarium. Hopefully this gives you an idea what you might have to do and what can happen if you don't plant deeply enough. I will also say that George Farmer's version of big algae problems... is not nearly as bad as it can get. He stopped it from getting worse pretty quickly.

That plants are cheaper in the UK I am totally willing to believe. The hobby seems to be much more common in the UK then here in the USA.

If you haven't already, I would encourage you to watch videos by George Farmer and MD Fishtanks. Both are good aquascapers who live in the UK. George Farmer especially has videos up of tours of various aquascaping stores in the UK which could be very useful for you to figure out what types of things are out there.

Other things to consider. You should definitely have more then one return and intake on a tank this long. You need to move a lot of water even after the tank has plants in it and hardscape to obscure the free flow of water. If your filter is strong enough this may be possible to be done using only a single pump but with plumbing that splits the intakes and returns. Your 3000L/hour filter won't do the trick, but two of them will probably work. Generally you want 4-8 times per hour to run all the water of your aquarium through a filter. If your tank is around 760 liters then the minimum amount of turnover would be 3040 liters / hour. That said, canister filters (which I assume is what you are talking about?) are notoriously inaccurate about their real world numbers. They measure the liters per hour with the canister filter completely empty of media and with essentially and the output being at the top of the filter, not the typical distance it must travel to your aquarium. Thus a 3000L/hour filter will not actually pump water at 3000L/hour. So you will need more filtration.

Regarding CO2. If you can afford it, definitely go for it. Plants need 3 things to survive. Nutrients, Light, and Carbon. The best form of carbon for them is CO2. There is some CO2 in the water just from air exchange (around 3-5ppm). But the perfect balance between plants and fish for co2 comes at around 30ppm which can only be achieved with pressurized co2.

You will need to look into it a lot more but at the most basic level to do co2 you will need, 1) a pressurized cylinder (a 10kg for you would be a good choice), 2) a two stage regulator (a device that attaches to the pressurized gas cylinder and allows the gas to be released at a much lower psi then what the cylinder is filled with), 3) a needle valve (a device that attaches to the regulator and allows fine adjustment of the gas so you can actually get the right amount into your aquarium), 4) a solonoid (a device that stops the gas from entering the aquarium when power is turned off - this means your co2 runs on a timer which is pretty important), 5) a means of measuring the amount of gas you put into the aquarium, (typically a bubble counter or a flowmeter), 6) a reactor (this is a device that actually dissolves the co2 into the water - diffusers are more common but for such a long aquarium a reactor is definitely better).

Hopefully that gives you a basis to continue to look into co2. In america I would say a co2 setup would start at around 200 dollars for diy options and go up from there. I admit that I have no idea what it would cost in the UK.

Also, you mentioned that the tank will go into a corner. If possible try make sure it does not go flat up against the wall in that corner, meaning leave enough space that you can walk around 3 sides of the tank. You will dearly want this ability for cleaning and maintenance if at all possible. If not... well its not the end, but it sure is nice when cleaning glass to be able to get to the side you are cleaning.

 

[butchblack]

Cheers,

Yep, I'm not trying to rush into anything as I want to try and get it right first time rather than messing up, spending excess amounts of money or worst case, killing fish!

Do you know roughly the costs/items involved in running a co2 setup? It's something that i have only known about this last weekend so I literally have no idea!

thanks

The major cost is the initial set-up, once you have the hardware your only cost is refilling the CO2 bottle. A 10lb refill costs me $25 and should be good for about 6 months. The hardware can run anywhere from about $250 and up.

 

[matt769]

Will reply to the above when I get a chance to on my laptop

Just been looking around for some nice wood at home to prepare to use in the tank

Collected some, jet washed and now leaving to dry

Plant to use this and soak them to fully absorb water

A few interesting pieces which should look good in the tank I hope

Actually, I’m thinking now that the wood below as it’s a vine type may rot or not be suitable for the tank

Would anyone be able to advise where to source some large pieces of suitable wood for the tank?

 

[matt769]

Tanks being built! Won’t be long now

 

[matt769]

So... abit of an update!

Unfortunately with the current situation the tank and stand has been delayed but I am hoping for delivery either this weekend or next weekend which will make it 4 months from ordering -not the shops fault at all and im very happy with their service and updates

In terms of what I have ordered in the mean time:
- 5 x spot lights with 1600lumen LED bulbs
- Aquamedic T controller twin
- Aquamedic titanium 300w heater
- Aquamedic titanium 500w heater
- Fluval Fx6
- Water filter housing for co2 reactor
- Stainless steel fittings for external reactor
- New filter hose
- 100kg of gravel
- Liquid fertaliser
- Fluval water treatment

 

[matt769]

It’s finally here!

 

[matt769]

7 month update!

Seems like my not so traditional route is working well