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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll be getting my new bml through the mail within the next week. Its the Dutch 6300k with a 90* spread. I'm going to use this in conjuction with my planted + to get deep reds and have my glosso carpet.

my question is how much bps should my co2 be at and how many ml should I be dosing PPS pro per day hving these two light. Ita a 25g Mr aqua cube. Amazonia substrate. The planted plus will be raised 4" from water level making it about 20" from substrate and the bml will be about 19" from substrate.

plants include glosso. Limno aromatica and hippuroides. Mini bolbitis. A.r. Variegated. Erik parkeri. Stargrass. Buce kapit. Ludwigia brevipes. Rotala Singapore and syngnothanus Madera.
 

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It's my understanding that the dosing recommendations for PPS and EI assume you're using high light and CO2. With regards to EI, it's recommended that you cut the dosage if you don't use CO2 and/or high light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My tank has high lighting already with a 26watt 10k CFL and the planted plus. But in regards to using a bml in conjunction with the planted plus is what I'm asking. Co2 and fertam if ferts are fine what about co2 I'm running 3bps right now
 

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IMO your should set your CO2 as high as your fish will tolerate. This is what it should be set at even without the addition of the new light. How close you keep it to the maximum is a personal choice. It's kind of like standing on the edge of a cliff. The view may be better at the edge but you're more likely to fall the closer you get. However, levels between 5-15ppm are prone to BBA problems so at least get over that.
 

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Get a drop checker - its a small investment considering what you are likely spending on everything else. Before starting fert dosing get at least a nitrate and preferably a phosphate kit as well. What ever dosing schedule you follow be sure to check the nitrate level as it will give an indication of the overall excess of nutrients. Once you hit nitrates at 20-40 ppm range stop dosing and allow the nutrients to be absorbed by plants.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have a drop checker. And a nitrate test. Usually my nitrates stay around 20ppm.

My drop checker is a different story it's always in the dark green area never gets bright green. It should be bright green right? I've had bba and there is a tiny bit there now from a hard scape transfer from my 55 tear down. But my plants never seem to get any bba on them
 

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My drop checker is usually yellow lol. You can also roughly calculate the CO2 level based on your KH and PH using a chart like this one.



It's not an exact measure since there are other buffering agents but a good option.

You can also use two drop checkers with different KH solutions. Here is another calculator that explains the process. This will get you pretty close.
 

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My drop checker is usually yellow lol. You can also roughly calculate the CO2 level based on your KH and PH using a chart like this one.



It's not an exact measure since there are other buffering agents but a good option.

You can also use two drop checkers with different KH solutions. Here is another calculator that explains the process. This will get you pretty close.
Zorfox, I think you have the yellow and red CO2 ranges mixed up. It was my understanding that as the CO2 concentration went up, the pH goes down. Given the dkH stays the same.
 

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LOL you're right. It's not mine. There are hundreds out there just google KH PH CO2 Chart.
Whew! I was sweating it when I corrected you. I try not to correct anyone because I'm usually wrong. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So that chart for the ph and kh. If I switch the red a yellow meanings, will that give me an accurate reading about how much co2 I would need. Or Is there a liquid test anywhere or a meter, pen I can buy to measure the amount of co2. I just turned the co2 up this morning it's running faster than I can count and my fish aren't gasping at all.
 

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So that chart for the ph and kh. If I switch the red a yellow meanings, will that give me an accurate reading about how much co2 I would need. Or Is there a liquid test anywhere or a meter, pen I can buy to measure the amount of co2. I just turned the co2 up this morning it's running faster than I can count and my fish aren't gasping at all.
CO2, pH and KH are all related.

For example, if your KH is 7, you can test pH and when it is between 6.9 and 7.2 you are in the "correct" range. That will get you in the ball park. Then you can adjust higher as long your fish don't show signs of distress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What if you use Amazonia, since it's a buffering substrate my kh is 0. I use ro water remineralized with salty shrimp gh+ for my shrimp and fish tank. It's easier to mix one barrel than two. Then my ph hypothetically if it was at 6.3-6.6 my co2 should be in the right range? But what if your ph tests lower than 6.3... Just going off the chart here. I know there all closely related. Same as with gh.
 

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Whew! I was sweating it when I corrected you. I try not to correct anyone because I'm usually wrong. ;)
Don’t let making a mistake dissuade questioning others. I learn more from mistakes and being corrected than anything.:icon_wink

What if you use Amazonia, since it's a buffering substrate my kh is 0. I use ro water remineralized with salty shrimp gh+ for my shrimp and fish tank. It's easier to mix one barrel than two. Then my ph hypothetically if it was at 6.3-6.6 my co2 should be in the right range? But what if your ph tests lower than 6.3... Just going off the chart here. I know there all closely related. Same as with gh.
Honestly, I think we concentrate on measuring CO2 too much. Yes, I just said that lol. The fact is, we should raise CO2 until we see signs of distress in our fish/shrimp and then reduce it to the previous setting (or a couple of previous settings if your new to CO2 for a safety margin). This is where our CO2 levels should be and we didn’t use charts, drop checkers or any other form of measure except the flora and fauna. After you obtain this level NOW you can look at your drop checker and/or chart and use them as a reference to monitor for changes easily. Even then the form of measure we should use will always remain our flora and fauna. It doesn't really matter if we can measure with perfect accuracy. Every tank is different anyway so concentrating on a specific measure is less important than watching our fish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Don’t let making a mistake dissuade questioning others. I learn more from mistakes and being corrected than anything.:icon_wink


Honestly, I think we concentrate on measuring CO2 too much. Yes, I just said that lol. The fact is, we should raise CO2 until we see signs of distress in our fish/shrimp and then reduce it to the previous setting (or a couple of previous settings if your new to CO2 for a safety margin). This is where our CO2 levels should be and we didn’t use charts, drop checkers or any other form of measure except the flora and fauna. After you obtain this level NOW you can look at your drop checker and/or chart and use them as a reference to monitor for changes easily. Even then the form of measure we should use will always remain our flora and fauna. It doesn't really matter if we can measure with perfect accuracy. Every tank is different anyway so concentrating on a specific measure is less important than watching our fish.
Good idea haha. All I need now is a new canister with better flow to push the co2 around the tank and I'll be set
 
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