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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I finally got my CO2 canister today and I wil be building my DIY reactor tomorrow. I'm using this reactor http://www.gwapa.org/articles/inline_co2_reactor/ on my Eheim 2215. Just to be clear on one important point. I have absolutly no intentions of placing this thing on the intake of the filter but rather on the return. Anyone got any thoughts on placing it on the return line?
 

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My only thought is the guy who wrote the article said he had a significant reduction in the flow rate using it on the outflow. That would bother me some.
If it had a reduction on the outflow I would think that it wouldn't be far off on the other side.

If it's on the outflow you will notice less "flow" coming out of the output but vice versa you would have to pay attention to the Intake power at the strainer which is probably not gonna be much different.
 

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Reduction in flow could be due to stuffing the reactor full of media. From what i've read on THIS forum, that stuff isn't really necessary.
 

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For an easier design take a look at my reactor design.

My advice is skip the bio-balls. They will reduce flow. That's why my design doesn't use them. Also my design gets the CO2 directly into the water flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Rex, it seems that the basic concept for your reactor and the one I'm building is about the same. What kind of absorbtion do you get with your design? Finally, will simple air line be sufficent for the CO2?
 

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100% of the CO2 is dissolved.

Define regular airline tubing. There are two types that you commonly see. Silicone and vinyl. Silicone is a poor choice. Vinyl works pretty good as long as you replace it every so often.

I prefer polyurethane.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Rex. I got the reactor built. I skipped on the bioballs as you suggested. I will be adding the reactor to the tank tomorrow. I'll have a look for the poly tubing, where do you normally get it? Do you have the specs on that DIY bubble counter?
 

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As long as the brass/bronze has no contact with water you are fine. I doubt you are going to find a stainless steel regulator body anywhere.

I would never put brass/bronze parts in continuous contact with the water. That's why I use nylon barbs on my reactors.
 

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Hate to burst your bubble but it's impossible for CO2 to condense in a CO2 system. For CO2 to go into the liquid state it requires a pressure of at least 800 PSI. Also the outside of the regulator body might be chrome plated but the insides are not. Nor are the actual working parts.

And silicone is the worst choice you can make for tubing.
 
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