Needle valve question

First off I would like to thank you all for your work on responding to my post. I appreciate all of your comments.

A little more background:

I am planning on buying the ULTIMATE CO2 SYSTEM from GLA. That bundle comes with a pH controller and the following needle valve:

Fabco NV-55 needle valve
12 turns from shut off to full open
40 threads per inch

The (alternative) more granular valve they offer is the following:

Ideal Needle Valve
Brass, forged body construction
Precision Metering Valve with unmatched precision
20+ turns from shut off to full open
56 threads per inch for precision metering

I have read a lot of pros and cons about adding a pH controller, and have made the decision to go with a pH controller. Perhaps in time I will feel comfortable enough to remove the controller. As a beginner to planted, a controller seems a safer way to go for me, and less time spent hovering over the tank trying to get it dialed in, while taking into consideration the natural fluctuations of CO2 and trying to deal with that as well.

I am also going to use a drop checker in the aquarium to get a visual on it.

That said, I wanted to ask the above question about the needle valve, as I lack any practical experience with using a pH controller, where perhaps a needle valve with the capability to fine tune the CO2 flow a bit more would be of some benefit?

~ Shrimp

Hello Bettatail and PlantedRich,
I suppose it's a philosophical thing for me. I have always attempted to buy the best of the bunch, rather than the economy version. That philosophy has served me very well over the years, although albeit it's sometimes painful. For me that can and does mean wait time and sacrificing. What I am able to purchase lasts a long time and doesn't give me problems in the interim. BT, I realize that you are putting your $ where it counts most, and you undoubtedly know more about the subject than I, but I am stuck being me, as painful as that is. I do have a feeling that you do some pretty great things in the planted tank world.

PlantedRich, on my list is the following:
Aqua Medic External CO2 Reactor 1000 for Aquariums.

That is what I came up with, but I spent a lot less time searching for a reactor then I did for a reg. I do know that I prefer a reactor over a diffuser, as from what I read a diffuser can milky up the water. I know that I don't want cloudy water. That's for sure. I am open for suggestions on a reactor if you guys happen to have any.

Thanks mucho,
~Shrimp

I try to follow the same philosophy, even though I do relapse, tempted to 'save' a buck here and there. Bettatail is steering you right, the same way he helped me out several years ago. The point he is subtly making is that you will be better off in the end by getting your own parts and putting them together yourself.

A bit of elbow grease, some sweat, a bit of time, and some hunting around. In return you will save some $200+ over GLA and end up with a much superior system that will hold it's resale value. Maybe even learn something new in the process.

If the process looks daunting, it is really not that hard. If I could do it, you can too. There are a lot of experienced people here on TPT who will pitch in with advise and walk you through the process - just look at recent posts for examples of the community helping each other. There are also a ton of threads and how-to here to help along the way if you just look around.

If that helps any, feel free to ask me personally questions, either in a public forum or via PM.

Edit: as far as reactors go, search for Rex or Serges DIY reactor - many guides and step by step instructions. Hunting parts is the hardest part first time around. After that, about 30 mins of work and a grand total cost of ~$30. And, if you want, you can even paint it any color you like, including pink .

v3

first, thanks, OVT.

I prefer these parts because the key element in this setup is the PH controller.
because you have a PH controller, the Out Put pressure Rise of the regulator is not a concern, so a cheap and reliable single stage CO2 regulator such as taprite or Cornelius are best choice, that is what you can get from GLA anyway.
The needle valve, the precision is not critical because you use a PH controller. The made in Japan SMC AS1200 needle valve, is best choice, IMO. If you compare a SMC AS1200 to a FABCO NV55, the FABCO NV55 is better precision, but if you compare the SMC AS1200 to ADA needle valve or the FABCO FN-18 needle valve on the GLA systems, the SMC AS1200 is definitely better.

The solenoid, prefer the clippard mouse, so small, only 0.67 watts, and officially 1 billion on/off cycle life, well suit for PH controller which require frequently on/off operation.
it is so good and economy, the best choice solenoid on any co2 system, imo.

last, all these parts fits budget for $60, plus a PH controller.
If these is no PH controller, better get a double stage regulator and higher precision needle/metering valve.

IF one encounters an "end of tank dump" I'd wonder if a pH controller could respond quick enough..
When one wants full automation, worrying about "the end" is counter productive.. Is this a "real" concern?? Don't know..

Controller or not , I'd still recommend a 2 stage regulator.. esp. when one wants "good parts" .. There is no such thing as a cheap 2 stage..(new at least)

gla 2 stage system:
http://greenleafaquariums.com/products/ultimate-co2-system-two-stage.html

Only comment on pricing is us "pickers" can do better..

actually maybe I will:
The heart of the system (need to change inlet):
http://store.cyberweld.com/smoxre2st30s.html
$188.50+ $10
Mil controller :
$125
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...=pla&catargetid=530005150000091140&cadevice=c

tank $100 (high est.)
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/tanks/co2/C5.shtml?bstr=1

Rest is less important and collectively could be had for around $100 (fabco./ bubble counter ect)tops:
you could save at least $150...

in fairness to GLA. .they did put together a "fair" package...

Since EOTD is such a frequent flyer, I ran my tank fully empty yesterday while watching. With the elcheapo beer reg, my pressure went from my normal 10PSI to a4PSI before the tank was to low to meter any longer. I use a 20 pound CO2 tank on a 125 and had been watching the pressure move down for about a week. I can't say exactly how long it too for the tank to drain as we had a cold snap and that made me ignore the first drop in the high pressure gauge. The result was that I never saw any increase in the PH that my controller was called to stop. Maybe there was an increase in bubbles per second but mine are fast enough that I can't count anyway. Perhaps EOTD is more trouble with small tanks? In 75's where I have let it run totally out, there was more of a single burst lasting about 15 seconds rather than what I got this time.

This is the reg I use now:
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/regulator/double/tf_t742_Dual_Gauge_Primary_Regulator.shtml
I like the cool grey plastic knob!