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That's a pretty severe case of BBA (Black Brush Algae). Something is way off for quite some time from the looks of it. Too much light, organics, not enough ferts) anything can cause it within a setup, because there's simply too much waste not being process IMO and stronger light will drive it more.

What is are your parmeters (light, duration, ferts, etc.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay and Black Brush is not the same as Black Beard correct?

Little about the tank:

- 75 Gallon
- Light is now Finnex Planted + 24/7 on 24/7 cycle but I turn it off at about 10pm and on about 6am because I don't feel it's dark enough for fish to sleep. That makes the peak hours at max par around 4 hours a day.
- Light was Finnex Ray II and it was too bright.
- Sun Sun 304 B canister filter
- Power head for additional current in tank.
- I would say lightly planted compared to tanks on here (have more plants on the way and lost a lot to the algae issues prior) I'm working on getting it heavily planted.
- No liquid ferts but started doing Seachem root tabs near larger plants.
- Eco-Complete sub around 2" depth
- Water change once a week around 25%
- Water parameters are pictured below.

Tank Water


Tap Water



I ordered a CO2 system from GLA and it should be here by the end of the week. Inline diffuser and drop checker.

I am a total newb at high tech planted tanks, CO2, and anything else that goes along with this hobby. But I want to learn and I want to get rid of this freaking algae!

I thank you for all the help you are willing to give.

-Chris

Bump: Another question I have is if I get everything right will the algae die off and go away on its own or will that never happen?

I bought some dwarf sag for the second time now that's on its way as well as dwarf baby tears for ground covers but I'm afraid it will be consumed by algae. They are not that expensive so I'm not too concerned with loosing them just a real bummer.
 

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Okay and Black Brush is not the same as Black Beard correct?
I believe they are synonymous.

Bump: Another question I have is if I get everything right will the algae die off and go away on its own or will that never happen?
If you get everything right, then the algae may die back a bit, but you will be best off manually pruning severely affected leaves, as even if the algae dies off, the plants may be too damaged.

Also, you seem to have a lot of light without any fertilizers. Additionally, do you have any nitrate readings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I believe they are synonymous.
Rats :(

If you get everything right, then the algae may die back a bit, but you will be best off manually pruning severely affected leaves, as even if the algae dies off, the plants may be too damaged.

Also, you seem to have a lot of light without any fertilizers. Additionally, do you have any nitrate readings?
I will trim up all the plants as soon as the CO2 system is up and running and proper ferts are being used.

It's very hard to understand this fertilizing thing, I've read so much my brain is melting. Is there just an easy to follow daily schedule. I was looking at GLA's EI kit.

Just don't know if I need to remove everything out of the tank clean it really good and move on or can I leave it in there and choke it out the best I can.

To answer your other question the first set of water tests is tank water. There is 0 Nitrate and I never have had a reading other than that at any time.
 

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Unfortunately when your setup a tank you can't add things along the way to grow plants. Everything has to be functioning from the getgo. So if you have good light and not providing co2, ferts, the light is trying to drive growth, but you have no gas (ferts/co2) in the engine so the growth stalls and decay starts. With the strong light and the decay of leaves you create the perfect storm for algae growth on the organic rich dying leaves.

As Darkblade mentioned, prune what you can and see if they come back, once all is available. Even with the co2, ferts I would cut back lighting to like 5-6 hours to help with algae control until the tank really grows out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Unfortunately when your setup a tank you can't add things along the way to grow plants. Everything has to be functioning from the getgo. So if you have good light and not providing co2, ferts, the light is trying to drive growth, but you have no gas (ferts/co2) in the engine so the growth stalls and decay starts. With the strong light and the decay of leaves you create the perfect storm for algae growth on the organic rich dying leaves.

As Darkblade mentioned, prune what you can and see if they come back, once all is available. Even with the co2, ferts I would cut back lighting to like 5-6 hours to help with algae control until the tank really grows out.
That does make a lot of sense. Okay so I'm well on my way to getting everything correct for the new plants that are coming in.

I did a bit of pruning last night of the very heavily covered leaves but it actually comes off easily with just a quick rub on the leave of the crypts, red flame, sword, and Anubis. Not so much on the vals and I just cut them off because the scrubbing does not work.

See below for lighting response

Don't leave your lights on all day. Cut it down to 7 hours max with a timer. Also turn down the intensity to 50%. You don't have enough plants in the tank for all that light.

Add a SAE to help control the BBA.
I switched from the Finnex Ray II to a Finnex Planted + 24/7 this light ramps up the light to full power for only 3-4 hours per day. The rest is just accent lights basically. I got the light because I felt terrible with the powerful light just turning on the fish.

That big pink kisser in the tank does not like large tank mates, hes a bit of a bully :smile2: I'll look at some SAE's though.
 

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That does make a lot of sense. Okay so I'm well on my way to getting everything correct for the new plants that are coming in.

I did a bit of pruning last night of the very heavily covered leaves but it actually comes off easily with just a quick rub on the leave of the crypts, red flame, sword, and Anubis. Not so much on the vals and I just cut them off because the scrubbing does not work.

See below for lighting response



I switched from the Finnex Ray II to a Finnex Planted + 24/7 this light ramps up the light to full power for only 3-4 hours per day. The rest is just accent lights basically. I got the light because I felt terrible with the powerful light just turning on the fish.

That big pink kisser in the tank does not like large tank mates, hes a bit of a bully :smile2: I'll look at some SAE's though.
Don't even ramp to full power is what I'm saying. Ramp to 50% max and only 7 hours total lighting. No accent lights throughout the day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Did a massive cleaning and pruning yesterday.



Also added some more new plants from the LFS. I have to go get some more plants because what I have is just not enough I tried Petsmart ill hit up Petco after work.

More plants arrived today from JacobsAquarium.com as well so I will get those in tonight. I got dwarf baby tears =0 they will probably die but what the heck lol.

CO2 system and ferts should be here next week!

Got three Amano shrimp and two Algae Eaters (Gyrinocheilus aymonier) not Siamese. Hopefully they start eating some of the crap in the tank.
 

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You definitely need more plants in that tank.

Fast growing stem plants are good to have when you're setting up. You can replace them later, but having a lot of fast growing plants at the beginning will do a lot to reduce algae.

If you asked someone in the WTB forum for trimmings, you could probably get a tankful for cheap. People who grow stem plants in high-tech tanks always have trimmings.
 

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I had the same problem when I first set up a planted tank.
It was too much light, not enough everything else.


Aaron
 

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Is that a chinese algae eater I see in your newest pictures. If so I would highely recommend returning him and getting some oto's or nerite snails instead. Chinese algae eaters only really eat algae in the begining of their life then become huge tank bullies as they get older (just google bad chinese algae eater... gives me nightmares).
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Is that a chinese algae eater I see in your newest pictures. If so I would highely recommend returning him and getting some oto's or nerite snails instead. Chinese algae eaters only really eat algae in the begining of their life then become huge tank bullies as they get older (just google bad chinese algae eater... gives me nightmares).
They are indeed the Chinese ones. Some have nightmares some say it depends on the fish. It was my only option and they have been pretty good thus far, not eating anything but not sucking on fish or bothering the others either.

I was thinking oto's as well. Petsmart may even have them on sale until May 1st.
I looked and could not find oto's or Siamese anywhere =( I'll have to go back to Petsmart. The CAE were only a buck each.
 

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Otos won't eat BBA. I don't think Nerites will either. I also don't think Chinese Algae Eaters eat BBA either (if they visibly clear things up, let me know!).
True Siamese Algae Eaters will though. Amano shrimp are said to eat BBA also.
Livestock to deal with the algae are just bandaids though. They don't solve the root cause of what is causing the BBA to grow.
 
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