[d91]

I have the aquatek regulator, which I like. The problem I am having is with the bubble counter they provided. The first one failed and the second one is working on failing. It is beginning to let water slip by the check valve.

Is there a dependable bubble counter check valve combo?

If not, which bubble counter and which check valve should I consider?

 

[nokturnalkid]

The jbj bubble counter check valve works pretty well. If you are looking for something that is all in one, then that would be your best bet. If you don't mind diy, there's a bunch of threads that use a normal check valve and a syringe. Pretty much what the aquatek is. The glass ones work pretty well except they are very fragile.

If you want the jbj bc, I have a brand new one that I'm not using.

 

[Darkblade48]

There have been reports that the JBJ bubble counter also leaks sometimes.

An alternative safe solution is to purchase a screw on one way check valve and place it between the needle valve and the bubble counter.

 

[kevmo911]

The check valve in any JBJ-style bubble counter is going to fail pretty quickly (do a search for stainless check valve, and the really cheap ones with the arrow *appear* to be the exact same thing as those in the JBJ bc's ...and they all fail *really* fast). And, though many people really like their JBJ-style bc's, the experiences I've had with mine (6 or 8 total), aside from the cv's (all of which have failed in under a year, most in much less than that), are very poor. Maybe it's that the plastic is not designed for decent pressure (I've had a couple crack while using 30-40 psi for Atomic diffusers). Maybe it's that the plastic is especially prone to brittleness with the combination of water and CO2. Maybe it's that screwing the caps down too tightly is too much for the plastic cylinder to handle. Maybe it's a combination of a poor NPT thread angle on the input, or that I have really bad luck with both the included O-ring and (not used in conjunction, but only after O-rings failed to prevent leaks) teflon tape as a substitute (still leaked ...on several attempts). Maybe it's something else, including the possibility that I'm a barely functional moron (entirely possible).

In any case, I firmly believe that they're absolute garbage. Seriously, a waste of cash, regardless of how cheap you can find them. And my recommendation would be to go with an inline glass counter - any type that has no moving parts - and buy a *quality* check valve separately. And, by "quality", I expect you'll have to spend $20 or more (or just plain get lucky) on your check valve of choice. I'd recommend a Swagelok.

SS-2C2-1/3
SS-2C4-1/3
SS-4C-1/3
Substitute "B" for "SS", and "1" for "1/3" for further options, though a 1/3 psi cv is ideal. Check Swagelok.com and Evilbay.

 

[Bettatail]

damn, have a handful of the swagelok SS check valve but no one wants them...

some people use two check valves, the cheap plastic one, works well.
and there are two major types of rubber core check valves, get the cross split rubber core one instead of the line split rubber core.
the swagelok check valve is the spring and valve door type, for this type the spring has to be stainless steel or co2 and water will hack the hell out of the non SS spring.

 

[Mostro]

I'd recommend a Swagelok.

SS-2C2-1/3
SS-2C4-1/3
SS-4C-1/3
Substitute "B" for "SS", and "1" for "1/3" for further options, though a 1/3 psi cv is ideal. Check Swagelok.com and Evilbay.

In addition to those, are these the correct Parker SS check valves with 1/3 psi cracking that are most appropriate? Is Evilbay still the best source for these? Any others that are suitable?

2F-C2L-1/3-SS
2M-C2L-1/3-SS
2M-C4L-1/3-SS

Hope that's not a thread jack, cheers

 

[kevmo911]

In addition to those, are these the correct Parker SS check valves with 1/3 psi cracking that are most appropriate? Is Evilbay still the best source for these? Any others that are suitable?

2F-C2L-1/3-SS
2M-C2L-1/3-SS
2M-C4L-1/3-SS

Hope that's not a thread jack, cheers

Evilbay's always worth checking.

The first two models you mention are the 1/8" F and 1/8" M ends.
But the third is just like the second, with a slightly larger body size and orifice (which shouldn't make a difference for us). So it's useable, but is pretty much the same as the second model. 2F-C4L-1/3-SS is also useable (similar to first model).

The one with 1/4" tube (A-lok is the Parker brand, and is interchangeable with Swagelok) is:
4A-C2L-1/3-SS

 

[oldpunk78]

Just do this and save yourself some trouble:

 

[kevmo911]

^Agreed on the glass bc, but not the Clippard cv. I've used two, and both failed in about 6 months.

 

[oldpunk78]

^Agreed on the glass bc, but not the Clippard cv. I've used two, and both failed in about 6 months.

I've read that. The only ones I've had fail were either used with mineral oil or diy co2. I have yet to have one fail with just water and gas.

 

[kevmo911]

I've never used anything other than water in bc's, because I worry about oils gumming up the works. And my DIY CO2 days are long behind me.

One other cv to try is the little white ones USPlastic sells. 2 or 3 bucks, SS innards, 1 psi cracking pressure. I've never tried them, but keep meaning to. SMC makes them, btw.