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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an old Marineland 350 canister filter and it's a PITA to clean so I don't do frequently enough. Don't want to spend too much on a German brand lol. Last time I was around here there were those Chinese knock offs on ebay that worked fairly decently for a good price. The media trays hold a lot more and support higher flow rates than the 350 canister internal sleeve.
 

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A lot of good reviews on the sun sun filters. I have a Penn-Plax Cascade 1000 I cant really complain about to much. Has been a good solid filter for me for over a year with no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Sun Sun! That was the name I was trying to remember. Thanx

I have a 45gal tall tank 36"x24"x12". What is a good turnover rate?

It's a high-tech setup, but lately I've been neglecting it. I stopped ferts and CO2. I haven't run filtration on it for well over a year. I just keep the water moving with a magnetic underwater prop. Plants slowed way down, but fish still seem happy. I suck out the poop with the water changes every couple of months.
 

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If you are looking at SunSun then maybe this one SunSun HW-402B or the Hw303B
 

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When canister shopping I find there are small but very important things sometimes missed. One is that some miss whether media and what quality of media is included in the price. If one doesn't actually know that media is included, check before buying. Good quality media can may a major difference in the overall value and enjoyment of filters. That works over into how we perceive the filters and judge them. We need to recognize that simply moving lots of water through the canister is not the same in all cases. Lots of water flowing through thin, poor quality media is much less value than moving lesser volumes of water through good media. Also when judging value, a tremendous flow can also be obtained by letting lots of water bypass the media.
One major point where you may have to actually get hands on with the filter is bypass. My biggest fault with the lower end filters is that there is a real question on bypass and many do not know or look for this. When water enters the canister there is usually a way to pass it to the bottom and then let it work it's way to the top. So take a look for how much space is left along the sides of the canister between the walls and the baskets. If there is a 1/4 inch gap around all sides of the baskets, why would water force it's way though media when it can simply flow around the sides of the baskets and back to the top? But that certainly is one way to get really high flow numbers. When I found leaf parts stuck inside the filter spraybar, I knew my filter was not good.
Looking at the specs on electrical usage can help on the question of value. A filter running 24-7 using 56 watts is going to cost you a lot more over the lifetime than a filter using 17 watts. How much may depend on your personal use of power, also. My energy price is high and I also spend a good deal on cooling during a large part of the year. That makes it important to me that I have a much smaller amount of heat generated by an efficient motor rather than a cheaper motor using far more power. Much of that power used becomes heat which I have to pay to remove from the house so I get hit both coming and going.
Rather than giving a personal review, I like to give you points and let you look over the particular filter and make the big decisions. In the end it is YOU that gets good or bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)

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For what its worth, I have run an AquaTop 400 for more than 6 months on my 40g tank. Yes it works, but, as PlantedRich noted - seeing various leaf parts stuck in the spray bar is a good indication something is not right. I finally took the time to make some minor changes and the result is a much cleaner outflow of water. The AquaTOP 500 model I have took more work to get it to not by-pass the filter stack. In the end I replaced it with an Eheim Pro 4+ - much happier.
I mention all this as my understanding is the SunSun and Aquatop are basically the same filter.
If you do go with the SunSun and are curious what I did, just ask.
 

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Everyone has there idea of the perfect filter. For me it's just not a canister filters. I have a fluval and api they both have leaked at one time or another. They both filter the water great the fluval is over three years old but it sits in a bucket and I have clamp on the top to keep it from leaking. The api is sitting not being used because of water leaking around the motor. I'm probably in the minority but unless your over 40 gallon I would do a hang on the back. Over 40 gallon a sump is the way to go.
 

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Everyone has there idea of the perfect filter. For me it's just not a canister filters. I have a fluval and api they both have leaked at one time or another. They both filter the water great the fluval is over three years old but it sits in a bucket and I have clamp on the top to keep it from leaking. The api is sitting not being used because of water leaking around the motor. I'm probably in the minority but unless your over 40 gallon I would do a hang on the back. Over 40 gallon a sump is the way to go.
I've got a sump on both the 90 and the 75. I am using them just because they were free. After using them I sure won't be buying any for freshwater. Just don't care for them.
 

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I just bought a Marineland C-220 for my 55G Tanganyika setup for 89 bucks free shipping from the evilbay. I think they had some left. I'm ditching the bio balls and using extra floss for mechanical filtration, the charcoal for purigen, and mixing matrix in with the ceramic rings. I thought $89 smackers was a good price on that filter.

Addendum: I will also run a prefilter on it as well.
 
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