[EvilFish]

Hi,

My low tech tank suffers from algae. It's very low light (0.7W/g).

My algae:
1. Brown algae on Java Moss (not too much as before).

2. Green Spot Algae

3. Blue-Green Alagae

4. This one I don't know exactly, I attached some pics, help me identify it please:

My tank:
0 Ammonia/Nitrites

Nitrates are hard to read, maybe 30-40 or 20 if a change the angle or light (I attached a pic of last test). Nitrates in tap water are very low.

Phosphates - no idea.

Light 0.7w/g for 7-8h.

Oxygen, no idea, but I have two HOB Fluval C3 (150GPH each). At night my Platy go to water surface, it's normal or at night plants take all the oxygen?

Fetrs:
API Leaf Zone (I dose 1/3 or 5ML each week).

Excel (I dose 2-2.5ml every day (but the problem was before I start to do this)).

Flourish Comprehensive (1-2ml weakly, this is half of the normal dose).

Root tabs, without it my crypts don't feel well.

I'm not heavenly overstocked, my fished are small:

I change 20-25% of water at week.

Any idea what can be the reason? And how to deal with that?

 

[rcs0926]

What kind of light fixture do you have, and how long are the lights on? Also, what kind of plants do you have?

 

[ForensicFish]

How long has your tank been set up?

Couple things (just my opinions),

Your tank is over stocked. Angel fish and bolivian rams are larger sized fish. And I love cory's as much as the next person, but they are poop factories. So given the amount of fish waste and the amount of food your are feeding, you are introducing a lot of organic wasted that your biological bacteria colony can't remove. With your light being so low, your plants do not have the growth rates to take in all the excess nitrates.

You need to do larger water changes. Java moss also harbors a lot of organic waste. Every time you do a water change, I would recommend you shaking out your java moss and vacuuming up the mulm caught in it.

HOB filters are convenient, but I have found through my experience that they do not provide adequate water flow through out the whole tank regardless of their GPH. Algae have a tendency to grow in areas that are stagnant or have little water flow.

So to combat your algae you can do a couple of things. First I would try a black out for a few days along with doing large daily water changes making sure to get a lot of the mulm in your java fern and any excess on your substrate. Second, I would try to manually remove as much algae as I could using your fingers, brush or scissors. You can also spot treat your algae with doses of H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide).

But in all, I believe you are overstocked fish wise which is leading to your algae problems.

 

[Chris_Produces]

I know one thing I don't like about that advisor (Which I know that's all it is). It doesn't take into account your plant stock. It's a cool tool though, maybe just take it with a grain of salt if you have lots of live plants in your tank. Also doesn't take into account things like the use of Fluvals Biomax or Purigen by Seachem.

 

[rcs0926]

I know one thing I don't like about that advisor (Which I know that's all it is). It doesn't take into account your plant stock. It's a cool tool though, maybe just take it with a grain of salt if you have lots of live plants in your tank. Also doesn't take into account things like the use of Fluvals Biomax or Purigen by Seachem.

I think the advisor would blow up if I entered my data. I'm way overstocked due to all the guppy fry I have in my tank. For some reason, my adult guppies aren't very hungry for fry. You would think that my fish would just devour fry especially since I don't feed every day. However, that isn't the case. I had a small batch of fry born yesterday, and although they are skittish around the bigger fish, none of them have been attacked.

 

[King of Hyrule]

Tell us about your lights.
What are you using for substrate?
Are you using a filter if so what kind (how big)?
How often do your clean your filter?

Post a picture of the whole tank.

 

[JHart]

low flow, an excess of bottled fertilizers, and unprocessed organic waste by the plants are mostly to blame. addressing these factors is a good place to start from.

in your case, taking the gravel vacuum lightly to the top layer of your substrate on your next few water changes would be a step in the right direction. it wouldn't hurt to reduce your stocking levels too, unfortunately.

without sufficient water movement nutrients aren't evenly distributed for your plants, which can cause patches of unwanted algae growth too. i'd suggest laying off the liquid ferts for now.. not until the tank gets cleaned up a bit, and the bio load reduced.

more pictures and your other water parameters can bring more suggestions!

best of luck

first post, yay.

 

[EvilFish]

Thanks for the answers!!!

rcs

What kind of light fixture do you have, and how long are the lights on? Also, what kind of plants do you have?

1x T8 6700K 20W. 7-8h.

My plants:
Anubias, Crypts, Swords, Rotala, Hydro, Brazillian Penny, Java Ball, Java Moss, Java Fern.

ForensicFish

How long has your tank been set up?

5 monts.

Couple things (just my opinions),

You're probably right. But I had a big brown and hair algae problem even without any fishes.
The new one is Green spot and Blue-Green. I guess it infected my tank with the plants/shrimps. I had a 2g tank with 7 fishes, no plants and without algae (exept brown).

Do you think I need a better lighting? Like a low-tech medium (2W/G)?
Or/and use Nitrate/Phospate removal media?

One more question, it's OK to put 240GPH powerheat at the upper level of the tank? Or better at the bottom to remove more waste? Any advise on that?

Chris

Also doesn't take into account things like the use of Fluvals Biomax or Purigen by Seachem.

I use Purigen and Matrix. Nitrate levels are the same.


King of Hyrule

Tell us about your lights.
What are you using for substrate?
Are you using a filter if so what kind (how big)?
How often do your clean your filter?

1. 1x T8 6700K 20W. 7-8h.
2. Eco-complete and I never vacuum it (hard with the planted tank).
3. 2x Fluval C3 (150GPH each) with the Filter Floss, Seachem Matrix and the Purigen.
4. Every second day, it's suffers from brown algae or tannin (I guess more from tannin).

Picture of my tank (2 weeks ago):

Airstone already remove, second HOB added near the heater.

Any idea about the algae number 4 (I attached 3 pictures in the first post)?

JHart

low flow, an excess of bottled fertilizers, and unprocessed organic waste by the plants are mostly to blame.

Without those ferts my plants suffers (holes on the anubias, yellow leafs on crypts). I didn't dose anything for 2-3 week with no effect on algae...

Maybe I need to cut it off again (except Excel)?

My water flow (no idea if the powerhead position is good):

Do you suggest to run the powerhead 24h? It's OK for my fishes? Right now I run it on timer 8h daily, but not every day.


ps. any idea about Nitrate reading? 40 on room light and 20 on sunlight...

 

[EvilFish]

If I'll install Current USA Satellite Freshwater LED+ Fixture (28 PAR for 18' tank), it will be much better that T8 20W bulb?

Plants will take much more nitrates?

Thanks

 

[EvilFish]

Better picture of identified algae:

 

[JHart]

You should have sufficient flow with the two hob filters.

Instead of spending money on nitrate and phosphate removers get into the areas of lower water movement with a gravel vacuum, especially where there aren't any plants or where debris is smothering plant roots, these are commonly called dead spots.

Adding more light at this point may pose additional challenges.

Either way at 20 or 40 ppm you're due for a water change.

kH and gH are critical parameters for successful plant growth as well, make sure they are within acceptable ranges for plants.

 

[Careful]

If I'll install Current USA Satellite Freshwater LED+ Fixture (28 PAR for 18' tank), it will be much better that T8 20W bulb?

Plants will take much more nitrates?

Thanks

This will probably go against what other people say, but I would Definitely get a different light. At 18" a single bulb is just not enough light for your plants to grow and compete with algae and remove nutrients from the water (giving you the high nitrates). Too low light can cause algae just as well as high light can. Also, I don't know if this is actually a thing or not but it seems like my tanks with 6700k bulbs grow algae more than those with different spectrums (sadly my other bulb doesn't tell what spectrum it is). So yes, get the Current Satellite + light (also because it's a really cool gadget) and see if that helps. It will definitely make your plants grow better!

Also your tank looks really good! Love the driftwood and plant layout!

 

[King of Hyrule]

My advice: Stop with the fertilizers - all of them. At this point you're feeding the algae. The Eco-complete (CEC) is likely max'd out and can continue feeding your plants (and Algae) for some time. 

Clean the filters weekly, try to get all the organic matter out of there. Your tank is covered in nitrifying bacteria and will be able to handle the amino load. (test often to be sure). Maybe try a product like SeaChem Phosguard or Fluval Clear Max, to help clear out the water.

So here is where I'm mixed. I have stopped with the my own weekly water changes for my overstocked 29G, and crazy enough my water test got better and my algae diminished. (I do complete a monthly water change of about 30-50%.) I don't dose any fertilizers, as I have a dirt'd tank (capped with Eco-complete, which is leaching nutrients in to the water, from the soil.) I think a big water change for you is in order - it resets the tank. Frankly I'm would suggest maybe holding off on your water changes, after the big one, and just testing your water to watch the levels. just keep those filters clear of organic matter.

Feeder shrimp! Get a few bucks worth of feeder shrimp, they (while they live) will help with the algae and snails. Snails can help with algae too, and if they tank over your tank, get a pea puffer to help knock their numbers back.

By the way (and yeah, I typed that out) nice looking tank.

 

[ForensicFish]

Just because one thing works for someone else doesn't mean it will work for you and vice versa.

This forum is here for people to bounce ideas off one another, learn a few things and ask for others opinions. But at the end of the day, the only way you find out what works and what doesn't is for you to do it yourself and observe the results. Once you have one aspect figured out, you move on to the next.

Patience is a virtue and in the world of planted aquariums, the only virtue.

 

[the_Chad]

Hi,

My low tech tank suffers from algae. It's very low light (0.7W/g).

My algae:
1. Brown algae on Java Moss (not too much as before).

2. Green Spot Algae

3. Blue-Green Alagae

4. This one I don't know exactly, I attached some pics, help me identify it please:

My tank:
0 Ammonia/Nitrites

Nitrates are hard to read, maybe 30-40 or 20 if a change the angle or light (I attached a pic of last test). Nitrates in tap water are very low.

Phosphates - no idea.

Light 0.7w/g for 7-8h.

Oxygen, no idea, but I have two HOB Fluval C3 (150GPH each). At night my Platy go to water surface, it's normal or at night plants take all the oxygen?

Fetrs:
API Leaf Zone (I dose 1/3 or 5ML each week).

Excel (I dose 2-2.5ml every day (but the problem was before I start to do this)).

Flourish Comprehensive (1-2ml weakly, this is half of the normal dose).

Root tabs, without it my crypts don't feel well.

I'm not heavenly overstocked, my fished are small:

I change 20-25% of water at week.

Any idea what can be the reason? And how to deal with that?

Planted tanks low tech and high are about balance, and something's a bit out of whack here. I would suggest a rockn maintenance crew. You have Coridora , I would recommend a Pleco. Rubber lip is a good small additive. A few Otocinulas if the tank is well established. Snails; mystery snails and trumpet. All these would aid in cleaning decaying organic matter, and eating some algae's.

With all these algae's the system is unbalanced. 1st comes to mind is unstable carbon dioxide levels coupled with lighting issues. This is where I would start trouble shooting. It could be other deficiencies but this is where I would start.

High levels of nitrates in a planted tank tells me photosynthesis is not optimal. We all know plants eat nitrates. So, my mind reverts back to lighting.

How old is your bulb? If it's more than 10 months old perhaps consider replacing it. I recommend a bulb in the 6,500-7K. A single T8 in a 29 gallon? I would consider doubling that!
This will kick the photosynthesis into gear, and may take care of some, if not most of the nitrate issues. I'll bet at that time these weird algae's will begin to go away.

I believe the algae in question is called STAGHORN. All algae's on your list point to unstable CO2, and issues with lighting.

Good luck!

 

[EvilFish]

Careful, thanks!

King of Hyrule, I'll buy 1-2 bamboo shrimp.

the_Chad, thanks

So, my task list:
1. Green spot algae. Check the phosphates level. Why it can be low?
2. Staghorn algae. Overdose excel. 2-3x. Starting slowly.
3. Brown algae. Higher light will eliminate it.
4. Blue-green algae. Antibiotic.
5. Possible 40 nitrates. 50% WC weekly. Higher light will reduce it too (via plants).

Sounds good?

 

[roadmaster]

1/16th tsp KNO3 once a week.
1/16th tsp KH2PO4 once a week.
1/16th tsp flourish comprehensive twice a week.
Excel once a day as directed.
Feed fish once a day,or every other day.
Keep filter's cleaned monthly.50% weekly water change.

 

[ForensicFish]

Planted tanks low tech and high are about balance, and something's a bit out of whack here. I would suggest a rockn maintenance crew. You have Coridora , I would recommend a Pleco. Rubber lip is a good small additive. A few Otocinulas if the tank is well established. Snails; mystery snails and trumpet. All these would aid in cleaning decaying organic matter, and eating some algae's.

With all these algae's the system is unbalanced. 1st comes to mind is unstable carbon dioxide levels coupled with lighting issues. This is where I would start trouble shooting. It could be other deficiencies but this is where I would start.

High levels of nitrates in a planted tank tells me photosynthesis is not optimal. We all know plants eat nitrates. So, my mind reverts back to lighting.

How old is your bulb? If it's more than 10 months old perhaps consider replacing it. I recommend a bulb in the 6,500-7K. A single T8 in a 29 gallon? I would consider doubling that!
This will kick the photosynthesis into gear, and may take care of some, if not most of the nitrate issues. I'll bet at that time these weird algae's will begin to go away.

I believe the algae in question is called STAGHORN. All algae's on your list point to unstable CO2, and issues with lighting.

Good luck!

While I agree that adding some cleaner shrimp such as Amano's and possibly even Cherry shrimp will help battle the Algae, I have to disagree with the bamboo shrimp and the idea of a pleco (ottos are good though).

First, bamboo shrimp get very large and are more inclined to feed off the water column than consume algae. You will notice bamboo shrimp with position themselves in areas of flow with all of their "feathers" out filtering the water column. You already have an issue with nitrates etc. while plecos are decent and cleaning spot algae, they are huge poop factories which only contribute to the overabundance of dissolved organic matter that you already have issues with.

 

[Chris_Produces]

...Patience is a virtue and in the world of planted aquariums, the only virtue.

Isn't that the truth:fish:

 

[EvilFish]

So, bamboo shrimp rise the bioload? How much?
I read in many sources that shrimp not rise a bioload.