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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wood Art Twig Terrestrial plant Rectangle


I have a 10 gallon tank I'm setting up for a CRS tank. I have a bunch of manzanita branches and I want to build a forest (along with a small hill out of egg crate). Hill not picture yet.

Thinking about placement of the trees. What do you think?

Not sure about the big one coming out of the water. Is that too much? Less trees? No hill and go with more trees?

I'll be planting HC to carpet - so I wanted a HC hill. I've already ordered flame moss that I'll be tying to the trees.

Would love some feedback/thoughts! Thanks!
 

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In terms of aesthetic balance, it's very poor: if the tank were placed on a balance at the center, it would topple over to the right.

You need to provide an idea of what you're aiming for, a sketch, for example. This would make it easier t see what your plan is.

Yes, moss can grow out of the water.
 

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I love the tree sticking out of the water. So your hill goes mainly in the back right corner and save one small "tree" for somewhere on it but on the slope instead of the top. The trees getting smaller towards the back give it good depth.
Take a strip of paper and lay it across the front. Mark on it the location of each tree.
You can easily put them back this way. Then move both bigger trees one inch over to the left. Now move the small tree behind the big one forward one inch and to the right one inch. See how you like that. You can easily put it back.
BTW: What are the dimentions of this tank ? I have a 10g limit in my lease and you know I'd love one of those 11.4 Mr Aqua tanks.
This is the first rimless I have seen that is at, not over or under 10g.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If part of the goal is to have a deep perspective, then large trees should be up close and smaller ones in back, similar to the pictures Mathman posted.
I wanted to create perspective - which is why large tree is in front. However, I was also looking to place the two large trees in the "ideal" locations using the rule of thirds.

Do you think flame moss would be okay on the branches that extend outside of the water? I don't have it yet (it's being shipped), but I assume most moss is a little droopy when outside of water.
 

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The moss will be ok growing on wood out of the water, it will remain moist, will grow very low and cover the driftwood. I have mine growing out of water like that, will grow very slow than if it's in the water though.
 

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I wanted to create perspective - which is why large tree is in front. However, I was also looking to place the two large trees in the "ideal" locations using the rule of thirds.

Do you think flame moss would be okay on the branches that extend outside of the water? I don't have it yet (it's being shipped), but I assume most moss is a little droopy when outside of water.
Do not ever use the rule of thirds in 3-dimensional works; it leads to static-looking arrangements. Due to the number of trees, you'll have to visually balance each element starting with one main tree (left-right, fore-aft), and then using another tree to counter balance it. This assumes the style you laid out with the open arrangement of wood.


One way to practice this balancing act is to move small stones on a sheet of paper (or a bed of sand like those tabletop zen stone gardens) to find the best arrangement. The size of the stones can represent the size of the trees. You should have this stone/paper arrangement in your view throughout the day so that any slight unnaturalness will become obvious the longer you look at it.


About flame moss, if you search for aquascape trees using it, it looks unnatural as real trees just don't grow that way. Riccardia chamedryfolia, coral moss, would look much better as it grows in compact clumps. Fissidens fontanus can also be trained to look like real leaves.

(The arrangement of the stones in that picture is terrible, btw.)
 

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Do not ever use the rule of thirds in 3-dimensional works; it leads to static-looking arrangements. Due to the number of trees, you'll have to visually balance each element starting with one main tree (left-right, fore-aft), and then using another tree to counter balance it. This assumes the style you laid out with the open arrangement of wood.


One way to practice this balancing act is to move small stones on a sheet of paper (or a bed of sand like those tabletop zen stone gardens) to find the best arrangement. The size of the stones can represent the size of the trees. You should have this stone/paper arrangement in your view throughout the day so that any slight unnaturalness will become obvious the longer you look at it.


About flame moss, if you search for aquascape trees using it, it looks unnatural as real trees just don't grow that way. Riccardia chamedryfolia, coral moss, would look much better as it grows in compact clumps. Fissidens fontanus can also be trained to look like real leaves.

(The arrangement of the stones in that picture is terrible, btw.)

Going to have to respectfully disagree about the rule of thirds unless I'm misunderstanding what it is you are recommending. I think the confusion arises in thinking of the aquarium as a 3D space but we are designing them in a 2 dimensional way for the most part. (Looking straight at them) as we would a painting, drawing or other 2D art piece.

But yes, technically they are 3D of course. In the 2D aspect, the rule of thirds still should apply if thats what you are wanting to achieve.. this can of course be broken and still have amazing scapes.

I think he is aiming to place one, or a grouping of trees in the front at one of the focal points in relation to the rule of 3rds. Whats happens behind that in the 3D realm is irrelevant in respect the the straight on view... if that makes sense lol.

Look at the examples that were posted. Both have a focal point (in the form of a tree in these examples) at or near the 1/3rd points.

Keep working till it clicks.. you will know when.

Happy tanking all :D
 
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