Yes (IMO), as I look at my wife's plants grown in water near the windowsill. An aquarium is a closed and controlled environment and in theory should be algae free. Algae is introduced into the aquarium via the items we bring in to the aquarium (e.g. substrate, plants, fish, water, snails, etc.). If we are careful in introducing items in to the aquarium, we can avoid the aggravation and headaches downstream. The number one cause of algae is through the addition of new plants - stowaways. Using tissue culture (in vitro) plants, we can eliminate this introduction as the plants are grown in a sterile lab and out of water. If that is not an option, then a plant dip using 3% hydrogen peroxide (h2o2) or bleach dip can be an alternative - but it may not be completely successful. Too long a dip or concentration will kill the plant. Some sensitive plants don't respond well to any dip, nor can we completely be certain that we killed all the algae.
Algae is robust and an opportunist in that any imbalances in light, nitrogen, phosphorus (nutrient pollution) can lead it to quickly overwhelm and outcompete your plants for nutrients. Mechanical removal is futile as it only leads to the algae spreading to other parts of the tank as algae reproduces asexually and through fragmentation (i.e. you scraping the tank glass to remove algae). The key takeaway is not to introduce algae in the first place.
So what happens if it is too late...
You have a number of options - Treat the Tank or Start Again (breakdown the tank).
If we try to live with it, the suggested approach is to reduce the lighting, dial up the co2, control the nutrients, add snails, shrimps, algae eating fish, etc. This IMO is not addressing the root issue which was the introduction of algae. I won't argue if you can be successful but it is akin to walking a tight rope. Should you miss a water change, leave the light on for too long, allow too much nutrients to buildup, etc. it will result in a breakout to occur. This only prolongs your headaches down the road and can lead to other problems through the band aid fixes such as an influx of snails. Think of the cane frog in Australia that was introduced to combat beetles which quickly became pests.
Treat the Tank
Treating the tank needs to be a holistic assault - it can't be a half-baked effort in spot treating with h2o2. IMO, it's best to remove fish and any invertebrates you like to keep (hotel them in another tank) as treatment can prove deadly - especially through my suggestion of an algaecide. Using a combination of an algaecide (Tetra, API, Excel), blacking out the tank, phosphate removal, and UV sterilization you can effectively tackle the algae issue. Algaecide is used at the onset to initially kill most of the algae. Temporarily blacking out the tank and removing phosphate deprives the algae of its food source - light and nutrients. UV sterilization kills any free-floating algae in the water column. UV sterilization has significantly dropped in price over the years from what was once considered a luxury item.
After the initial assault is done, a full clean-up is required which includes removal of rocks/wood (using a toothbrush to remove any trace amounts of algae followed by sterilization with h2o2. A water change is done and the aquarium reassembled/reinstated (perhaps another water change a couple days later for good measure). Once the aquarium is deemed safe as there may be a toll on the existing good bacteria causing a partial cycle, the previous inhabitants are reintroduced. Ensure that no water from the hoteling tank is transferred and that the nets are sterilized in between use with h2o2. The UV sterilizer is used going forward temporarily but shouldn't be required unless you are introducing something new to tank.
Start Again
Probably the easiest and least aggravating approach over the long run is to just tear down the tank. Let everything sit dry and sterilize the tank. Rebuild the tank ensuring that the new plants you source are of high quality to not introduce algae back into the tank. By monitoring what goes in to the tank and tackling any issues aggressively, you can enjoy a peaceful tank for years to come without having to worry about algae.
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To sum this up, algae is the uninvited guest. It is given to other unsuspecting aquarist through the transfer of plants (likely) and arguably through fish and invertebrates (less likely). If we practice good aquatic husbandry (tissue culture, quarantining, dips, etc.) and proper sourcing of our inhabitants from good/reputable places you can avoid the hassle. In nature, algae is unavoidable - I recall a study published where they found trace amounts of algae spores high up in our atmosphere. In a closed environment, you should be able to eliminate it entirely as algae doesn't suddenly appear. It was lying there waiting for the opportunity to announce itself.
Just my thoughts.
Algae is robust and an opportunist in that any imbalances in light, nitrogen, phosphorus (nutrient pollution) can lead it to quickly overwhelm and outcompete your plants for nutrients. Mechanical removal is futile as it only leads to the algae spreading to other parts of the tank as algae reproduces asexually and through fragmentation (i.e. you scraping the tank glass to remove algae). The key takeaway is not to introduce algae in the first place.
So what happens if it is too late...
You have a number of options - Treat the Tank or Start Again (breakdown the tank).
If we try to live with it, the suggested approach is to reduce the lighting, dial up the co2, control the nutrients, add snails, shrimps, algae eating fish, etc. This IMO is not addressing the root issue which was the introduction of algae. I won't argue if you can be successful but it is akin to walking a tight rope. Should you miss a water change, leave the light on for too long, allow too much nutrients to buildup, etc. it will result in a breakout to occur. This only prolongs your headaches down the road and can lead to other problems through the band aid fixes such as an influx of snails. Think of the cane frog in Australia that was introduced to combat beetles which quickly became pests.
Treat the Tank
Treating the tank needs to be a holistic assault - it can't be a half-baked effort in spot treating with h2o2. IMO, it's best to remove fish and any invertebrates you like to keep (hotel them in another tank) as treatment can prove deadly - especially through my suggestion of an algaecide. Using a combination of an algaecide (Tetra, API, Excel), blacking out the tank, phosphate removal, and UV sterilization you can effectively tackle the algae issue. Algaecide is used at the onset to initially kill most of the algae. Temporarily blacking out the tank and removing phosphate deprives the algae of its food source - light and nutrients. UV sterilization kills any free-floating algae in the water column. UV sterilization has significantly dropped in price over the years from what was once considered a luxury item.
After the initial assault is done, a full clean-up is required which includes removal of rocks/wood (using a toothbrush to remove any trace amounts of algae followed by sterilization with h2o2. A water change is done and the aquarium reassembled/reinstated (perhaps another water change a couple days later for good measure). Once the aquarium is deemed safe as there may be a toll on the existing good bacteria causing a partial cycle, the previous inhabitants are reintroduced. Ensure that no water from the hoteling tank is transferred and that the nets are sterilized in between use with h2o2. The UV sterilizer is used going forward temporarily but shouldn't be required unless you are introducing something new to tank.
Start Again
Probably the easiest and least aggravating approach over the long run is to just tear down the tank. Let everything sit dry and sterilize the tank. Rebuild the tank ensuring that the new plants you source are of high quality to not introduce algae back into the tank. By monitoring what goes in to the tank and tackling any issues aggressively, you can enjoy a peaceful tank for years to come without having to worry about algae.
-----
To sum this up, algae is the uninvited guest. It is given to other unsuspecting aquarist through the transfer of plants (likely) and arguably through fish and invertebrates (less likely). If we practice good aquatic husbandry (tissue culture, quarantining, dips, etc.) and proper sourcing of our inhabitants from good/reputable places you can avoid the hassle. In nature, algae is unavoidable - I recall a study published where they found trace amounts of algae spores high up in our atmosphere. In a closed environment, you should be able to eliminate it entirely as algae doesn't suddenly appear. It was lying there waiting for the opportunity to announce itself.
Just my thoughts.