Yellowed Anubias leaf
Grey and blotchy Microsorum leaves
Some other pictures
Grey and blotchy Microsorum leaves
Some other pictures
No point unless you're planning on adding some stem plants. The ferns/anubias don't care about substrate nutrients as much as stem plants do.Substrate: CaribSea Tahitian Moon Sand Plan on replacing it, perhaps with ADA?
I don't think many people here add peat moss to their filters... but i may be wrong. I hear it's kind of messy. What is your reason for wanting to lower the pH?Filtration: AC110 w/ filter floss. Want to place some peat moss to reduce pH and make the water softer, but do people actually do this?
I'd recommend dry dosing. It's a lot cheaper than liquid ferts, and works just as well.Dosing & Top-off: Tap water top offs once a week and no dosing. Plan on adding a liquid fertilizer when I figure out what the hell I'm doing, any suggestions?
That's a LOT of SAE's for a 26g. They'll eventually get too big for your tank.• 6 Crossocheilus siamensis (Siamese Algae Eater)
Agreed, it's likely a nutrient deficiency. See above comment.What are wrong with my plants? (See The Story)
I love ADA Amazonia I aquasoil. It gets pricey for larger aquariums, but since you won't need much for a 26g, i'd go for it. I have it in my 90g and it's definitely "the best of the best" IMO. Worth every penny!Does anyone have a recommendation for a substrate, I was thinking ADA?
Never hurts, but it's really up to you. You're right, your current plants don't really need Co2, but every plant will benefit from it. However, i would first start with getting the fertilization on the right track, then look into a pressurized co2 system.Should I CO2?
Vals would be nice, but those are green. Maybe rotala rotundifolia? It's fairly easy, and get's semi-red under good lightning. Also, ludwigia repens is an easy red plant.I would like a tall plant for the background after the substrate switch, something to grow up the back, perhaps around the 2' mark for height, maybe a different color then the Microsorum and Anubias. Suggestions?
Yes that is a stem plant. I am finding it a difficult plant to grow. I think it would need higher light than you have. Check out the crypts, so many and some have color.Would you consider Rotala rotundifolia a stem plant, because if it is then won’t I need some kind of substrate fertilizer? I would put peat moss in there to reduce the pH for the fishes, the fish like a pH around 6.5, I’ve been buffering to that.
Why do you want 6.5 ph. That isn't necessary unless getting special fish like dwarf cichlids. I bet you pet store doesn't have that ph. Have read when trying to adjust the ph with chemical you can get a yo yo affect. In fact at this tread I started you'll see the ph is not that important and trying to adjust is like chasing your tail.I’m looking for 6.5. ph. If peat doesn’t work, does anyone have any other suggestions? Perhaps some HCl, would the extra chloride be rough on the fish; maybe HSO4 (sulfuric acid) so the sulfur can be used by the plants.
Rotala rotundifolia is a pretty hardy stem plant. If you shove some root tabs into your current substrate, they should be fine.Would you consider Rotala rotundifolia a stem plant, because if it is then won’t I need some kind of substrate fertilizer?
Like Hilde said, most fish can adapt to nearly any pH level. You shouldn't need to change your pH to suit the "proper levels" that a certain fish should live in. There's really no point IMO unless you are going to have some super special/rare/sensitive fish.I would put peat moss in there to reduce the pH for the fishes, the fish like a pH around 6.5, I’ve been buffering to that, but I hate using buffer so much, I feel like it has as much negative as positive, including buffer creep, which is way worse than salt creep in my salt water tanks.
Dosing in excess is just what the EI method is about. Instead of supplying the plants with less nutrients that they will use, the EI method instead says to dose more than they can use. It's impossible to find the exact amount that they need, so IMO it's better to dose more than it is to dose less. However, if you want, do try dosing less if that's easier for you, and share your results with us-- some nutrients are better than no nutrients at all.Why give the plants excess nutrients, they are plants that don’t really need that much in the first place; what if I was to take the numbers suggested and divide it by 4 or so and do 20% changes instead, 50% is just too radical for me as well as labor intensive (I didn’t mention it, but I also take care of three salt water aquaria and work 60 hours a week).
Absolutely not. Some easy stem plants should grow just fine in your current substrate, as long as you use root tabs for substrate nutrients.Do I need the aquasoil if I’m not doing stemmed plants?
Correct.I agree that the brown spots are diatoms on the old leaves, but on the new leaves it is something different, I think it is just the plant not having enough nutrients.
Don't think the Red Cabomba will grow but the green should be okay with API root tabs Seachem excel. Sags are pretty easy to grow. I believe HC and Ricca would need CSM+B. If you do the diy be prepared to a slight smell of brewery. The yeast has an odor.I was thinking about red Cabomba.
I was also thinking about purchasing a plant for the front of the tank, for foreground, perhaps Sagittaria, HC, or Riccia.
I may be mistaken, as I am new to ferts and such, but I think you're not supposed to add KNO3, KH2PO4 and Trace all at the same time; something about the iron not being able to be absorbed or what not? This may be only if you use CSM+B but, like I said, I'm new to this too, so maybe an expert could shed some knowledge on this.@AzFishKid
-I’ll probably premix all of the fertilizers together so I have a mix of KNO3, KH2PO4, trace, and GH booster, so all I have to do is add a predetermined amount ...
Can an expert please shed some light on this.I may be mistaken, as I am new to ferts and such, but I think you're not supposed to add KNO3, KH2PO4 and Trace all at the same time; something about the iron not being able to be absorbed or what not? This may be only if you use CSM+B but, like I said, I'm new to this too, so maybe an expert could shed some knowledge on this.
I'm not an expert, but iron and phosphate can combine and make iron phosphate which makes it difficult to dissolve in water. With that being said, I dose micros and macros at the same time and have no issues. Just don't store the micros and phosphate in the same container.
Thank you. It was an African cichlid set up so the rock caves were a must and the plants had to be tough. Now that I have community fish I want to get more delicate plants, ADA is on the list to help me achieve that. I may remove the top rock so something tall can be planted behind the cave system, still debating. Opinions anyone?Beautiful set up!
If you replace the substrate wit ADA, then the peat moss in the filter becomes moot, as the ADA will have the same effect on your water (or that’s certainly been my experience with it).
So I should just keep all the dries separate then.I'm not an expert, but iron and phosphate can combine and make iron phosphate which makes it difficult to dissolve in water. With that being said, I dose micros and macros at the same time and have no issues. Just don't store the micros and phosphate in the same container.