From what I understand after asking similar questions is that the only way to accurately measure co2 is to drop some serious money into buying a machine that will check the co2 saturation. Way to expensive for pretty much everyone in the hobby. So we use drop checkers. They aren't perfect but they give you. A ball park estimate to work with, which is usually what you need to get started. Find out how much co2 your fish can handle by slowly increasing your co2 output and if you see them starting to distress back off a bit and that's your maximum co2 rate.
Most Accurate CO2 Monitor?
What is the most accurate way to measure Co2? I've heard mixed things about drop checkers...
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oxygaurd portable co2 meter. its the smallest version that i know of
it'll set u back in some pennies though
beyond that breweries invest in quite accurate and elaborate co2 testing equipment that if u had the space would work fine
it'll set u back in some pennies though
beyond that breweries invest in quite accurate and elaborate co2 testing equipment that if u had the space would work fine
There was another thread where someone asked if this was any good:
http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-HI3818-Dioxide-Approximate/dp/B0085WWQSO/ref=pd_ybh_6
I dont think there was a response. I'm tempted to try it.
http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-HI3818-Dioxide-Approximate/dp/B0085WWQSO/ref=pd_ybh_6
I dont think there was a response. I'm tempted to try it.
Check into a hach co2 titration kit. A little more expensive but is a consistent productThere was another thread where someone asked if this was any good:
http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-HI3818-Dioxide-Approximate/dp/B0085WWQSO/ref=pd_ybh_6
I dont think there was a response. I'm tempted to try it.
I have the Hanna Inst co2 titration kit and have used it a few times. (had drop checker solution issues). There is a quality issue with the syringe so I don't use the "thin" tip for it. Accurate enough. I do like the setup, though the colors are a little hard to read sometimes.
I'm planning on measuring it at different times over the next week to see if I get consistent readings.
My tank, btw, is running with a Milwaukee ph meter on the co2 which I've been happy with. This pH meter is much more accurate than the drops in my opinion. When I get a different in pH, I re-test with the drops and sure enough, I get back the second time what I read from my ph meter.
I'm planning on measuring it at different times over the next week to see if I get consistent readings.
My tank, btw, is running with a Milwaukee ph meter on the co2 which I've been happy with. This pH meter is much more accurate than the drops in my opinion. When I get a different in pH, I re-test with the drops and sure enough, I get back the second time what I read from my ph meter.
I have actually thought to go "the other way" and measure O2. I have had some gassing problems and think I believe my problems have been related to lower O2 (biological o2 demand related).
I have also ordered a cal aqua double check drop checker to back up my up aquatics drop checker. Even in the atmosphere, I never see blue, just green. I have my pH drop a modest amount (~0.7).
I have also ordered a cal aqua double check drop checker to back up my up aquatics drop checker. Even in the atmosphere, I never see blue, just green. I have my pH drop a modest amount (~0.7).
One of the problems with checking CO2 ,whether we use the drop checker or even with a monitor, is getting the test calibrated correctly. I use a PH controller and probe but if I don't keep the probe and monitor calibrated it isn't going to be much good. I can get a reading down to a tenth but if I use old calibration fluid or don't bother at all, the reading is just going to be numbers. No matter what system we use it is only as good as the setup and much of that depends on me. Lots of time the precision just is not there.
Planted Rich makes mention of calibration, this is the inherent issue with CO2 measurement.
There is no no simple way to verify the reading directly.
The best solution I've been able to come up with is a sealed beaker with a rubber stopper with a 1/2" hole for the pH probe.
I add a know volume of water, say 2000 mls(and try to be accurate) and a known weight of dry ice(CO2 solid) and quickly add the ice right after weighing.
The beaker is typically a 1500ml beacker and has some head space, in this case, 500 mls extra, so there is no air space.
Since the beaker is sealed and the ice dissolves/melts............I hasve a known volume of water and a known weight of CO2.
200mg of dry ice = 100 mg/l for CO2.
100mg of dry ice= 50 mg/l for CO2.
50 mg dry ice = 25 mg/l for CO2.
If you use tank water for this method, then you can measure the KH of the solution and then compare to the pH/KH chart. If it is off, then you can try and use a correction factor.
This correction factor may change seasonally and time between water changes.
I would suggest using a larger volume of water and this will improve the accuracy more, say 5000mls or 10,000mls or 20,000 mls(about 5 gallons).
Some CO2 will sublime when you remove it from the scale and place into the container for the standard. If you are fast and quick about it, and careful..........this is minimized.
If the difference between the standard and the pH/KH scale is not much different, and this does not change much over the year, then stick with that.
If it is off, then best to eye ball things and know the plant responses, or both.
I do not think a CO2 meter is needed.
There is no no simple way to verify the reading directly.
The best solution I've been able to come up with is a sealed beaker with a rubber stopper with a 1/2" hole for the pH probe.
I add a know volume of water, say 2000 mls(and try to be accurate) and a known weight of dry ice(CO2 solid) and quickly add the ice right after weighing.
The beaker is typically a 1500ml beacker and has some head space, in this case, 500 mls extra, so there is no air space.
Since the beaker is sealed and the ice dissolves/melts............I hasve a known volume of water and a known weight of CO2.
200mg of dry ice = 100 mg/l for CO2.
100mg of dry ice= 50 mg/l for CO2.
50 mg dry ice = 25 mg/l for CO2.
If you use tank water for this method, then you can measure the KH of the solution and then compare to the pH/KH chart. If it is off, then you can try and use a correction factor.
This correction factor may change seasonally and time between water changes.
I would suggest using a larger volume of water and this will improve the accuracy more, say 5000mls or 10,000mls or 20,000 mls(about 5 gallons).
Some CO2 will sublime when you remove it from the scale and place into the container for the standard. If you are fast and quick about it, and careful..........this is minimized.
If the difference between the standard and the pH/KH scale is not much different, and this does not change much over the year, then stick with that.
If it is off, then best to eye ball things and know the plant responses, or both.
I do not think a CO2 meter is needed.
A question comes to mind when I reread this. While it is always good to get the most accurate reading, what plan do you have for using /needing a truly accurate reading? Since my need for an accurate reading would be based on the health of my fish and plants, I would think those come with lots of variables that make having a truly accurate reading less needed. Other than the comfort of knowing the CO2 is a at a specific level, I would still use the fish/plant health as the real factor to watch.
Am I missing the real point of having an accurate reading?
Am I missing the real point of having an accurate reading?
Not sure about the OP, but in my case, I wanted a additional data point. My fish / plants was telling me one thing and my drop checker was telling me another. I did not have (probably more accurately, recognize) any of the classic symptoms. Fish were never gasping or breathing on the surface, until I tried to add a few large fish who objected to the water during acclimatization.
Looking back, I had symptoms that slowly appeared over time, but never attributed it to my CO2 levels.
Also, I'm currently using a pH meter on my CO2. I have had some variance of pH prior to adding CO2 due to a huge piece of driftwood. I am wondering if my CO2 level is changing too much during the week due to underlying pH changing. I'm using the Carbon doser / Milwaukee meter combo from aquariumplants. Any suggestions to verify/check this?
Looking back, I had symptoms that slowly appeared over time, but never attributed it to my CO2 levels.
Also, I'm currently using a pH meter on my CO2. I have had some variance of pH prior to adding CO2 due to a huge piece of driftwood. I am wondering if my CO2 level is changing too much during the week due to underlying pH changing. I'm using the Carbon doser / Milwaukee meter combo from aquariumplants. Any suggestions to verify/check this?
Well, once you have an excellent example or better yet, several excellent examples................of nice health, healthy fish, no algae issues, great plant growth with a wide range of species, then you measure..........and do so carefully.A question comes to mind when I reread this. While it is always good to get the most accurate reading, what plan do you have for using /needing a truly accurate reading? Since my need for an accurate reading would be based on the health of my fish and plants, I would think those come with lots of variables that make having a truly accurate reading less needed. Other than the comfort of knowing the CO2 is a at a specific level, I would still use the fish/plant health as the real factor to watch.
Am I missing the real point of having an accurate reading?
Unfortunately hobbbyists only test when something is WRONG.
There may be 101 reasons something is wrong, but if you measure when things are right, you have a baseline, so you can rule that out.
Some tanks might require 70ppm CO2, others, 45ppm.
This is also good information because it shows that not all tanks are perfect if they have a drop checker that says 30ppm.
Also, what are the CO2 levels at night time?
Is 20 ppm optimal for nighttime fish? No, not likely, so this shows there is a room for improvement for the system, degassing at night time. I added a wet/dry filter after measuring this and O2 levels to all my tanks.
I think your comment is fine for many, but if you want to learn more and improve, measuring O2 and CO2 may teach you a lot more.
Tom, do you measure O2 or ORP? I have read a little about the difference, but not in a while.Also, what are the CO2 levels at night time?
Is 20 ppm optimal for nighttime fish? No, not likely, so this shows there is a room for improvement for the system, degassing at night time. I added a wet/dry filter after measuring this and O2 levels to all my tanks.
I think your comment is fine for many, but if you want to learn more and improve, measuring O2 and CO2 may teach you a lot more.
Next tank, I'd like to do a wet/dry. Both for O2 and for easy surface skimming. But, alas, my 75g is currently set up with canisters.
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