Modding a Finnex Fugeray to fit in a one-tube fixture
2
Lowe - pretend like you didn't read this one 
So i got a bow tank with the standard black plastic full hood with single florescent tube. Wife likes the way the light only goes down into the tank, not thrilled with my idea of glass top with 30" FugeRay on legs.
Gut the fixture (4 screws under the bulb, cut the wires) and end up with an empty plastic shell that sits on top of the glass 'window' in the hood.
Now for the light - a 24" Fugeray would fit easy, but not quite bright enough (low PAR) for a low/mid light tank, and would leave the edges dark. A 30" is a little wider than the shell. Time for some warranty voiding!
Take the end caps off my just-arrived-the-day-before 30" FugeRay and peek inside. The screw grooves run the whole length, and the first inch+ of both sides is empty metal, no 'works'. Figured I could carefully hacksaw .9 inches out of the side with the cord fitting, and 1.1" out of the other side.
If you are going to do this, some pointers:
- slide out, score and snap 2" off the acrylic splash guard, set aside
- measure and mark your cut in several places to keep it square (so you can put the end caps back on)
- cut slowly and turn the unit over when needed - Don't cut all the way through like a piece of lumber - you have to be sure not to cut through the switch wires leading to the endcaps. Make the last cut very slow and soft so the blade doesn't come down on the wires, otherwise you will end up doing some splicing and taping!
- on the end with the cord you will have to cut through the excess/cutoff metal with snips and bend it open to get over the transformer on the cord (easy as it is light aluminum)
- slide the splash guard back into it's groove, screw the end caps back on.
- I put little rubber stick on feet (like little rubber bumpers or electronics feet) on each end of the unit, stuck to the plastic of the endcaps.
Tada! You now have a 28" FugeRay with the same output Fits where the standard bulb was with room to spare, lights up the whole width of the tank, and the cover fits back on!
Lowe was concerned this would overheat, but the cover is vented and at least 2" away at all points, after 8 hours of running the unit is just warm to the touch, no problem at all.
Sorry no pictures, didn't think of that until after, but here it is on the tank (not much in there yet, packages are on the way!) Love the way LED make the wave patterns on the floor, and running the blue moonlights with the white gives a nice color without being over the top or artificial looking.
![]()
After planting, I like the way there is no light spill from the top:
![]()
So i got a bow tank with the standard black plastic full hood with single florescent tube. Wife likes the way the light only goes down into the tank, not thrilled with my idea of glass top with 30" FugeRay on legs.
Gut the fixture (4 screws under the bulb, cut the wires) and end up with an empty plastic shell that sits on top of the glass 'window' in the hood.
Now for the light - a 24" Fugeray would fit easy, but not quite bright enough (low PAR) for a low/mid light tank, and would leave the edges dark. A 30" is a little wider than the shell.
Time for some warranty voiding!Take the end caps off my just-arrived-the-day-before 30" FugeRay and peek inside. The screw grooves run the whole length, and the first inch+ of both sides is empty metal, no 'works'. Figured I could carefully hacksaw .9 inches out of the side with the cord fitting, and 1.1" out of the other side.
If you are going to do this, some pointers:
- slide out, score and snap 2" off the acrylic splash guard, set aside
- measure and mark your cut in several places to keep it square (so you can put the end caps back on)
- cut slowly and turn the unit over when needed - Don't cut all the way through like a piece of lumber - you have to be sure not to cut through the switch wires leading to the endcaps. Make the last cut very slow and soft so the blade doesn't come down on the wires, otherwise you will end up doing some splicing and taping!
- on the end with the cord you will have to cut through the excess/cutoff metal with snips and bend it open to get over the transformer on the cord (easy as it is light aluminum)
- slide the splash guard back into it's groove, screw the end caps back on.
- I put little rubber stick on feet (like little rubber bumpers or electronics feet) on each end of the unit, stuck to the plastic of the endcaps.
Tada! You now have a 28" FugeRay with the same output
Fits where the standard bulb was with room to spare, lights up the whole width of the tank, and the cover fits back on!Lowe was concerned this would overheat, but the cover is vented and at least 2" away at all points, after 8 hours of running the unit is just warm to the touch, no problem at all.
Sorry no pictures, didn't think of that until after, but here it is on the tank (not much in there yet, packages are on the way!) Love the way LED make the wave patterns on the floor, and running the blue moonlights with the white gives a nice color without being over the top or artificial looking.
After planting, I like the way there is no light spill from the top:
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
I got it Lowe - no worries!
"no, no, no what is he thinking - well, I can see it now why you would - eh, long as it works for you man"
"no, no, no what is he thinking - well, I can see it now why you would - eh, long as it works for you man"
BingoI got it Lowe - no worries!
"no, no, no what is he thinking - well, I can see it now why you would - eh, long as it works for you man"
. Just a suggestion, I doubt heat will be much of an issue but have you considered removing the entire back of the T8 housing for more ventilation?
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
