[antiquefloorman]

Is there anyone here using this frustrating device?? Everytime I plug The regulator into controller plug it turns the regulator off. My PH is 6.5 I have the controller set to 7.0. Do I really need this thing??
Thanks,
Tim

 

[lpsouth1978]

The controller will only turn the Co2 on if the pH goes above your set point. Since your set point is at 7.0 and your pH is at 6.5, it will not add Co2 to the tank. Because your pH is already so low, I would ditch the controller and rely on your own tests and a drop checker to measure the Co2 concentration in the tank. Maybe someone with more experience than I will chime in though.

 

[Crispino L Ramos]

Do you have a drop checker? Did you check the pH with a test kit? I run the CO2 irregardless of the set point, just keep turning the controller knob down until the drop checker color is yellow green. What's your source of water? Check the pH of your water from the source (tap or RO filter).

 

[antiquefloorman]

Do you have a drop checker? Did you check the pH with a test kit? I run the CO2 irregardless of the set point, just keep turning the controller knob down until the drop checker color is yellow green. What's your source of water? Check the pH of your water from the source (tap or RO filter).

Yes, I have a drop checker. It is very blue. The ph was 6.7 when I set up the co2 rig. I use RODI.

 

[Crispino L Ramos]

Yes, I have a drop checker. It is very blue. The ph was 6.7 when I set up the co2 rig. I use RODI.

It would help if you can use half tap and half RODI. The pH will go above your set pH (regulator) and the CO2 will kick in. Does your tank have fauna/critters?

 

[antiquefloorman]

Yes, nothing special. Should i do a wc of tap water?? It is around 7.0? I am turning this into a farm tank. Co2 high lighting.

It would help if you can use half tap and half RODI. The pH will go above your set pH (regulator) and the CO2 will kick in. Does your tank have fauna/critters?

 

[PlantedRich]

I think this may be a time to ignore some of the common information you read about fish. While it is true that about the most talked about item in fish is the PH, I feel it is way overblown. I feel radical quick changes are bad but I find many fish will do fine and even breed well when they are slowly moved out of their "recommended" PH. I have very hard alkaline tap water and I was somewhat concerned about trying planted tanks and fish together as my fish had always been of the types who liked my tap water.

I fell into a sms122 and wanted to try it as it was all set up. I first went with the high setting of my tap water but over several months, as the plants and tank got it together, I began moving the dial just a touch lower which kept the CO2 moving. Over time I moved my PH from 7.6 down to 6.8 and the plants love it and the fish are breeding.

I recommend moving the dial down just enough to get the CO2 you want and watch the fish for how they feel.

 

[Crispino L Ramos]

Yes, nothing special. Should i do a wc of tap water?? It is around 7.0? I am turning this into a farm tank. Co2 high lighting.

On your next WC just use tap water since your tank is full of RODI right now. It's true that most fish we buy from the petstore easily adjust to gradual pH change because they have been bred from fish farms.

 

[O2surplus]

I agree with the posters above. I can tell from my own experiences that fish can tolerate much wider daily Ph swings than most of the published "facts" indicate. I have my Ph controller set to drop the Ph in my tank to 6.2 from a nightly average of 7.2-7.4 with no discomfort to my tank's inhabitants. I use RO/DI water with the needed minerals added for water changes and my water measures 3dGh and 4dKh. If the OP already had a low Ph without CO2 injection, then his source water was already to low in TDS and had virtually no buffering capacity being that it was "too pure". Do a water change using a measured amount of tap water to increase the water's buffering capacity and bring the Ph of the tank back to around 7.0, then dial down the PH controller to drop the ph until the drop checker turns green. Don't worry about your fish- they'll be fine and your plantswill love it and reward you with vigorous growth.

 

[antiquefloorman]

I agree with the posters above. I can tell from my own experiences that fish can tolerate much wider daily Ph swings than most of the published "facts" indicate. I have my Ph controller set to drop the Ph in my tank to 6.2 from a nightly average of 7.2-7.4 with no discomfort to my tank's inhabitants. I use RO/DI water with the needed minerals added for water changes and my water measures 3dGh and 4dKh. If the OP already had a low Ph without CO2 injection, then his source water was already to low in TDS and had virtually no buffering capacity being that it was "too pure". Do a water change using a measured amount of tap water to increase the water's buffering capacity and bring the Ph of the tank back to around 7.0, then dial down the PH controller to drop the ph until the drop checker turns green. Don't worry about your fish- they'll be fine and your plantswill love it and reward you with vigorous growth.

My tds was 230 when I started. I did a wc of about 60%. The ph now is 6.9 and the tds is 339. I am waiting for my drop checker to turn greenish yellow. Thanks for the help. Is there a concern when tds is high in a planted tank?? Also, how many osmocote capsules should I stick in the substrate?? It is a 55 gal.
Thanks,
Tim