[20cc]

im about to diy a led light using bridgelux eb series striplights and was wondering if i can just connect the dimming cord on this meanwell driver to a stormx or bluefish type of controller.


thanks


https://www.meanwell.com/productPdf.aspx?i=308

 

[gus6464]

Full bluefish - yes (10v PWM)
mini bluefish - no (3.3v PWM)
Storm X - no (5v PWM)

I would just go with one of those cheap wireless 0-10V dimmers from amazon.

 

[20cc]

Full bluefish - yes (10v PWM)
mini bluefish - no (3.3v PWM)
Storm X - no (5v PWM)

I would just go with one of those cheap wireless 0-10V dimmers from amazon.

i would like it to ramp you have any suggestions? thanks

 

[jeffkrol]

Suggestion: Don't use that driver..

Unless you do "Apex" or some other high end dimmer/programmers 10V PWM (or 0-10V analog) really isn't worth messing with..
I did find Gus a cool littel add on board BUT. it's in Germany..

Fairly easy to combine a bunch of parts BUT why?
Like modified TC-420 w/ the 5V hooked to a cheap MOSFET board and 10V power supply..

more info...
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/10-lighting/1253737-orphek-strip-lights-5.html

 

[20cc]

Suggestion: Don't use that driver..

Unless you do "Apex" or some other high end dimmer/programmers 10V PWM (or 0-10V analog) really isn't worth messing with..
I did find Gus a cool littel add on board BUT. it's in Germany..

Fairly easy to combine a bunch of parts BUT why?
Like modified TC-420 w/ the 5V hooked to a cheap MOSFET board and 10V power supply..

more info...
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/10-lighting/1253737-orphek-strip-lights-5.html

what about this driver or a suggestion from you which i should use to run the eb striplights


https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-HLG-120H-24B-dimming-waterproof/dp/B01MYWKOCL

 

[jeffkrol]

24V constant voltage switching power supply and, depending on strips 350mA or 700mA Meanwell LDD drivers..
Add a bluefish mini..or coralux, or hurricanre or modified tc-420

Connecting high power LEDs to the TC420

48V and you can put 2 in series, saving LDD's..

 

[20cc]

these are the strips im gonna use. they are 12inch strips going to use 6 to start off with. two strips per 24inch area of tank ( between each bracket)


https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bxeb-l0280z-57e1000-c-b3/bridgelux


what you think ? your expertise is appreciated.

 

[jeffkrol]

First why 12" (280mm) instead of the cheaper 24" (560mm/22") boards and what size tank.. All 3 dimensions.

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bxeb-l0560z-57e2000-c-b3/bridgelux

 

[20cc]

First why 12" (280mm) instead of the cheaper 24" (560mm/22") boards and what size tank.. All 3 dimensions.

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bxeb-l0560z-57e2000-c-b3/bridgelux

yea i thought they were 24inches was maybe thinking about the samsung ones. yes i will use 6 of the 22inch ones and see where that leads me. any guide as to hooking them up would be appreciated.

125 gallon tank 72x18 width....22 high

 

[jeffkrol]

So get a 48V power supply.. 3 of these (mA rating is "negotable").
https://www.alliedelec.com/mean-wel...MItOPQoY6H3QIVyrfACh0pigRaEAQYASABEgJx_PD_BwE
Run boards 2 in series so you only need 3 Ldd's

 

[20cc]

thank you....very daunting though

Bump: if i run them 3 in series would i need 4 ldds?

 

[jeffkrol]

It's voltage that is the kicker here..
Each strip wired in series requires approx. 20V soo 3X20 = 60V..
Rule 2: Ldd's require (or generate or something. ) a voltage differential soo a 48V power supply is only capable of supplying 44V DC out.. thus you are limited to 2 strips commonly.

which is fine in this case.. Each 2 strips in series requires one LDD..
Just substute a double strip for each ..Doesn't show the PWM wire.. Will get to that..

From a purely natural design standpoint you may want to do 4 at 5700K 2 @ 3000k
All at full is about 4800K but starting the day w/ just the 3000k ramping up gives a more natural sunrise/set..

My reading comprehension is sucky tonight..Ignore paragraph above.
1WW/1CW works fine per 24" ( rough estimates put substrate PAR a wee bit low) though full on for both has a fairly low K temp..4350 approx

Sooo 3 would def would be better..

Waste about $10 by doing 2 drivers per "panel" (24" area) 1 for 2 5700k one for the lone 3000k
and $36 for 3 more strips.

Wattage is roughly 13.6x 9= 122W The extreme efficiency (close to 200L/W) helps a lot and sort of makes my ciphering a bit shaky but I'll stick w/ 3 strips per panel..
even if you need to dim considerably for awhile..

There is only a $50 difference between yours and mine but more benefit on mine..

PART #: LRS-350-48 $33.49
https://www.ledsupply.com/power-supplies/mean-well-lrs-enclosed

https://www.ledgroupbuy.com/meanwell-ldd-700hw-led-driver/
Hard wired drivers so no need for the expense of boards..
https://www.rapidled.com/ldd-h-4s-driver-board/

 

[20cc]

i think i understand . the power supply supplies 48v of power . each 2 string connected to one ldd needs 46v (or so) to operate . power supply of 48v provides 48v through each ldd which in turn provides power to the 2 string strip light correct? so only one power supply needed correct ?

 

[20cc]

It's voltage that is the kicker here..
Each strip wired in series requires approx. 20V soo 3X20 = 60V..
Rule 2: Ldd's require (or generate or something. ) a voltage differential soo a 48V power supply is only capable of supplying 44V DC out.. thus you are limited to 2 strips commonly.

which is fine in this case.. Each 2 strips in series requires one LDD..
Just substute a double strip for each ..Doesn't show the PWM wire.. Will get to that..

From a purely natural design standpoint you may want to do 4 at 5700K 2 @ 3000k
All at full is about 4800K but starting the day w/ just the 3000k ramping up gives a more natural sunrise/set..

My reading comprehension is sucky tonight..
1WW/1CW works fine per 24" ( rough estimates put substrate PAR a wee bit low) though full on for both has a fairly low K temp..4350 approx

Sooo 3 would def would be better..

Waste about $10 by doing 2 drivers per "panel" (24" area) 1 for 2 5700k one for the lone 3000k
and $36 for 3 more strips.

Wattage is roughly 13.6x 9= 122W The extreme efficiency (close to 200L/W) helps a lot and sort of makes my ciphering a bit shaky but I'll stick w/ 3 strips per panel..
even if you need to dim considerably for awhile..

There is only a $50 difference between yours and mine but more benefit on mine..

PART #: LRS-350-48 $33.49
https://www.ledsupply.com/power-supplies/mean-well-lrs-enclosed

im beginning to understand. cant go past 48v on any connection .


well i have three 24inch of those dsuny led panels but i dont know they are not doing the job i hoped they would. i was gonna replace the leds they have with new ones but thats 75 dollars to replace them all . then i thought about getting 3 more panels from them but the maintenance would hit hard on the pocket when time comes to replace all 150 of those leds at 1 dollar a pop and thats not the worst thing , your not getting decent 3w leds from [Ebay Link Removed] so its just best to diy one with these strip lights and when one burns out i can just replace easy peezy .


for now im just gonna put 3 strips on each side of the dsuny just to get my hands wet with the soldering and connections but by years end im gonna just diy a whole one with the ww/cw like you said and maybe some color leds .


are you using these strip lights on yours ?


thanks

 

[jeffkrol]

Yes only one power supply is needed..
BUT each strip needs about 20V (typ. V(f) 19.5) so 2 in series requires 20x 2 = 40V
The drivers regulate the voltage to "set" the current..sounds complicated but its pretty easy..

you just need a power supply w/ enough voltage to satisfy the V(f) of the LED board.
Driver will decrease voltage to set the mA.. (it can't increase the voltage over the power supply.
LDD driver design dictates how much is err.. lost in translation.. 4V is a safe bet but it is actually a bit variable..
So, again 48V power supply only provides a 44 V potential on the other side of the driver.. 2 boards require 40 v so you are good to go..

a single board only requires 20V
In both cases the driver will regulate the voltage..

I use 3W diodes as well as bigger COB's..
The Bridgelux are really a nice "special" type of strip light..Not any different than stringing a bunch of 3W emitters, only individually smaller..

My 40B old frame.. After about 3 other iterations of experiments..

It was designed to illuminate the tank from top/bottom and front to back..
Crude but effective..diodes are currently a bit different as to ''colors" and it's due for one more small rebuild..

your tank has the same width approx.


Hmmm. besides crude drivers run low power and possib. questionable diodes, the DSunY's had fair power..and lensing
The Bridgelux diodes are prob. at least 2 if not 4x more efficient.

How about something like this?

Very early DSunY custom design vids:
https://youtu.be/lkq9rr8NQtc
https://youtu.be/kHX1hosIgzE

 

[20cc]

Yes only one power supply is needed..
BUT each strip needs about 20V (typ. V(f) 19.5) so 2 in series requires 20x 2 = 40V
The drivers regulate the voltage to "set" the current..sounds complicated but its pretty easy..

you just need a power supply w/ enough voltage to satisfy the V(f) of the LED board.
Driver will decrease voltage to set the mA.. (it can't increase the voltage over the power supply.
LDD driver design dictates how much is err.. lost in translation.. 4V is a safe bet but it is actually a bit variable..
So, again 48V power supply only provides a 44 V potential on the other side of the driver.. 2 boards require 40 v so you are good to go..

a single board only requires 20V
In both cases the driver will regulate the voltage..

I use 3W diodes as well as bigger COB's..
The Bridgelux are really a nice "special" type of strip light..Not any different than stringing a bunch of 3W emitters, only individually smaller..

My 40B old frame.. After about 3 other iterations of experiments..

It was designed to illuminate the tank from top/bottom and front to back..
Crude but effective..diodes are currently a bit different as to ''colors" and it's due for one more small rebuild..

your tank has the same width approx.

nice and clean :grin2:...very nice

 

[20cc]

let me ask you a question and with this ill let you go ( for today ) . like setup i like things clean . is there a connector or something that i can use to have one wired connection coming out of the power supply with 3 cables ( like a peace sign ) and then connect the 3 ldds seperately ?



know what im saying?

 

[jeffkrol]

You only need 2 wires going to a bus bar that feeds the LDD's..
You create the largest rats nest w/ LDD's to strips.. so if you mount the LDD's near the strips (and say in a canopy and note LDD's are really tiny, like fat match boxes..)
most external wiring is eliminated..

Second rats nest is the PWM wires but that you can use like Cat6 so lots of thin wires in a nice neat package..

The 40B has one "wire" going to the light head.(16ga 8 conductor thermostat wire, 2 for each of 4 channels)..and the channels are all hooked to barrel jack pairs..
https://www.amazon.com/WildHD-2-1x5...ocphy=1028224&hvtargid=pla-355663449331&psc=1

Clean wiring, is an art I'm not really good at..
an example of prob an average build (2 steps above what I usually do.. w/ large chips.
2 cords to the light.. 1 power, one PWM wires from a controller. Hs a few bells and whistles in it. Temp IC and voltage regulator for fans.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2405385
Fancy tutorial..and the really expensive way to build one..
https://www.instructables.com/id/A-Complete-Idiots-Guide-to-Make-LED-Light-Unit/

 

[20cc]

thanks a ton jeffkrol

 

[20cc]

Yes only one power supply is needed..
BUT each strip needs about 20V (typ. V(f) 19.5) so 2 in series requires 20x 2 = 40V
The drivers regulate the voltage to "set" the current..sounds complicated but its pretty easy..

you just need a power supply w/ enough voltage to satisfy the V(f) of the LED board.
Driver will decrease voltage to set the mA.. (it can't increase the voltage over the power supply.
LDD driver design dictates how much is err.. lost in translation.. 4V is a safe bet but it is actually a bit variable..
So, again 48V power supply only provides a 44 V potential on the other side of the driver.. 2 boards require 40 v so you are good to go..

a single board only requires 20V
In both cases the driver will regulate the voltage..

I use 3W diodes as well as bigger COB's..
The Bridgelux are really a nice "special" type of strip light..Not any different than stringing a bunch of 3W emitters, only individually smaller..

My 40B old frame.. After about 3 other iterations of experiments..

It was designed to illuminate the tank from top/bottom and front to back..
Crude but effective..diodes are currently a bit different as to ''colors" and it's due for one more small rebuild..

your tank has the same width approx.


Hmmm. besides crude drivers run low power and possib. questionable diodes, the DSunY's had fair power..and lensing
The Bridgelux diodes are prob. at least 2 if not 4x more efficient.

How about something like this?

Very early DSunY custom design vids:
https://youtu.be/lkq9rr8NQtc
https://youtu.be/kHX1hosIgzE

been busy ..... yea thats what im aiming for . i have the dsuny but lacking a bit. i have three of the 24inch models and they are great but dunno seems like i need another row of 24s. i have some dim spots. so instead of that im going with the diy. was gonna replace all the leds but ,,,



is there a dimmer you can suggest until i get the stormx controller ?


thanks again....that tank is beastly btw