Python or equivalent. If you live in an apt, leaks are a liability risk. Plumbing means potential risk.
You can connect it and drain into a sink. Put it away when done.
You can connect it and drain into a sink. Put it away when done.
Making water changes (30g at a time) easier..... designing something much easier?
Time constraints have delayed me setting up my 70g tank, and today I had a thought..... and I have time to plan this 
.
How on earth am I going to do 30-50% water changes on this thing?
I live in a small apartment and keep a 40g Rubbermaid type trash can on the back porch filled with mineralized RO water for water changes.
I do not want to have to do remove the canopy (which will sit tight onto the tank on all 4 sides to prevent jumpers).
I am thinking of drilling the back of the tank (1/2" glass) and putting in an overflow bulkhead near the top of the tank, and use this for my water "output".
When I start pumping in fresh, clean water, the overflow will automatically push out "mostly" the old water (I realize this is somewhat inefficient and the exhaust water will be mixed, not 100% old water). For the sake of ease, this is nice.
Normal water levels will sit below the bulkhead/standpipe, so it won't drip after a water change.
So how do I plumb this? I'd like to just pull a hose of some sort out of the closet, quick-connect it to something on the bulkhead and toss the other end into the bathtub, and turn on a pump in my 40g water reservoir. Allow displacement to do the rest.
The 70g tank will sit about 30 feet from the back porch.
I can drain the tank into a bathtub (about 30 feet also).
Any other suggestions? I do not want to use something like a Python to drain it, since I'm already wasting a lot of exhaust water with the RO unit.
.How on earth am I going to do 30-50% water changes on this thing?
I live in a small apartment and keep a 40g Rubbermaid type trash can on the back porch filled with mineralized RO water for water changes.
I do not want to have to do remove the canopy (which will sit tight onto the tank on all 4 sides to prevent jumpers).
I am thinking of drilling the back of the tank (1/2" glass) and putting in an overflow bulkhead near the top of the tank, and use this for my water "output".
When I start pumping in fresh, clean water, the overflow will automatically push out "mostly" the old water (I realize this is somewhat inefficient and the exhaust water will be mixed, not 100% old water). For the sake of ease, this is nice.
Normal water levels will sit below the bulkhead/standpipe, so it won't drip after a water change.
So how do I plumb this? I'd like to just pull a hose of some sort out of the closet, quick-connect it to something on the bulkhead and toss the other end into the bathtub, and turn on a pump in my 40g water reservoir. Allow displacement to do the rest.
The 70g tank will sit about 30 feet from the back porch.
I can drain the tank into a bathtub (about 30 feet also).
Any other suggestions? I do not want to use something like a Python to drain it, since I'm already wasting a lot of exhaust water with the RO unit.
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Not using a Python for draining purposes. Had them before, they are GREAT, but they waste a LOT of water for draining. I can use siphon action just fine .
Getting the wheels over the back door's threshold would be murder lol...
Hmm. A very good idea. Put a good quality gate valve splitting off my intake, and possibly put a cap of some kind on it so it NEVER leaks (I do not ever trust a valve to not drip....).
So to drain the tank, I'd kill the filter, pop the cap off of the inlet T.... plug in some tubing, and allow the water to siphon into the bath tub. It would automatically prime right up when I turn the valve on.
To refill it, I'd probably just poke the SAME drain hose over into my big rubbermaid container, attach a strong powerhead, and turn both it and my filter on. (Rubbermaid water temp willl be the same, I have a 300w heater for that).
1) Ultimate control over what I put in my tank. As I look at my overstocked, overfed 10g tank, and see nearly no algae in it, I smile and suspect the RO water, properly mineralized and fertilized, has a lot to do with that.
2) We have copper pipes. Even one slip up on my part (not flushing the lines) could kill my shrimp.
3) We have chloramine, and lots of it (water smells/tastes like bleach often). One slip up and forgetting to use water conditioner, and I'll spend the night crying. I have done that over the years. Last year I killed a clown fish and 6-line wrasse, and about 6 years ago I killed a different clown and a pseudochromis (and this was only top-off water).
4), MOST importantly. I spent $200 on that RO unit. If I don't use it, you got any idea how much trouble I'm in with my lady!!??? :hihi:
. I've thought of this, but have you ever tried to move a wiggly, wobbly Rubbermaid trash can full of 35 gallons of very heavy water? I can barely tip it over by myself if I need to dump it.
Getting the wheels over the back door's threshold would be murder lol...
Hmm. A very good idea. Put a good quality gate valve splitting off my intake, and possibly put a cap of some kind on it so it NEVER leaks (I do not ever trust a valve to not drip....).
So to drain the tank, I'd kill the filter, pop the cap off of the inlet T.... plug in some tubing, and allow the water to siphon into the bath tub. It would automatically prime right up when I turn the valve on.
To refill it, I'd probably just poke the SAME drain hose over into my big rubbermaid container, attach a strong powerhead, and turn both it and my filter on. (Rubbermaid water temp willl be the same, I have a 300w heater for that
).I may eventually go to a 50/50 mix, but I have several reasons for using straight RO water that's been re-mineralized.
1) Ultimate control over what I put in my tank. As I look at my overstocked, overfed 10g tank, and see nearly no algae in it, I smile and suspect the RO water, properly mineralized and fertilized, has a lot to do with that.
2) We have copper pipes. Even one slip up on my part (not flushing the lines) could kill my shrimp.
3) We have chloramine, and lots of it (water smells/tastes like bleach often). One slip up and forgetting to use water conditioner, and I'll spend the night crying. I have done that over the years. Last year I killed a clown fish and 6-line wrasse, and about 6 years ago I killed a different clown and a pseudochromis (and this was only top-off water).
4), MOST importantly. I spent $200 on that RO unit. If I don't use it, you got any idea how much trouble I'm in with my lady!!??? :hihi:
Is the tank higher then the drain where you're using the python? I turn on the tap to initiate the siphon then turn it off and it keeps flowing
Anything gelse other than direct plumbing will be difficult. Submersible pump plus a length of hose would work too!
Anything gelse other than direct plumbing will be difficult. Submersible pump plus a length of hose would work too!
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
