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Hello all,

For the last 8 months I have been simply dosing dry ferts into a cup, mixing, and then adding to the tank.

I now have 3 tanks and it will be easier to make a 500mL solution for my ferts. I have already done it with traces.

My question is:

Can I throw all the macro's into one 500mL bottle? Will they interact with each other and reduce the effectiveness? Will I be able dissolve all the ferts (kno3, k2so4, k2hpo4)?

I'm using YANC and it's telling me to 128.6g of kno3 to a 500mL solution so that each 18mL dose is 10ppm of no3 (I use a plastic pipette that is 3mL so it has to be multiples of that). I could use 12 or 15mL doses, but it says it won't dissolve. I wonder if water's capacity to dissolve an ion is based on an absolute basis, or an ion to ion basis? In other words, can I dissolve 126 grams of kno3 and 100g of K2so4?
 

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Carpe Diem
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I mix all macros together in 2l of water and then into 4 500ml bottles. For macros, I use 10 ml dose per 20g. At the 4:1:1 ratio, ~99% of dry ferts dissolve in about 30 mins with some occasional stirring.

Edit: there was a reason why I put that in a post :) http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?p=3493362

I "downgraded" to 3:1:1 from 4:1:1 ratio as I get some N in my tap. In either case, I get full dissolution. I add some Epsom Salt because of my Ca : Mg ratio, don't thunk that makes that much difference in any case.

v3
 

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Thanks, OVT. If it works for you that is good enough for me. Just waiting on my gram scale from amazon :)
 

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I discovered that the local hydroponics store is a great supply source for our tanks. Lots of stuff like dropper bottles, timers, etc. They also do CO2 tank exchanges.
 

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Just do your own stoichiometry you will get more accurate levels. There is a guy on YT that will show you how. It makes the hobby more interesting and you won't have any discrepancies in your concentrations or levels. All companies and "experts" like to round either to the nearest 10,1,.1,.01. Seachem loves to round up to the nearest value of 10 so really the levels are way off IMO. Just stay under the solubility max of the compound or element with the highest molar mass. If the solubility is 60g/100ml at 70 degrees F you want the total amount of your combined compounds to be below this total. Say 45g/100ml as a combined total and you should be fine. As long as you are getting the levels you desire from each compound. Really to be 100% accurate you would have to do some algebra and set up a system of equations for 3 variables to find the exact ratio of each compound needed to equal 45g/100ml because their weights are not all the same. In this aspect it is probably simpler to just use an already made calculator like the PPS-Pro calculator. But for single compounds I still think it is best and more fun to do it on your own.
Here is a recent label I made for a buffer, It has way higher concentrations than any retail aquarium fertilizer and it will last me for ages.
Spent $7.00 on 1lb of KHCO3 and $2.00 on a glass amber 1L bottle.

ADU REGULATOR
Potassium Bicarbonate KHCO3
1125ml 21% per volume
Dose 10ml per 10 gallons (38L) of aquarium water (as needed).
This dose raises carbonate hardness by 2.5dKH.
2.5dKH=45mg/L. Plants prefer (2-5dKH) levels.
For unbuffered water or non CO2 injected aquariums
use ½ dose (as needed) to avoid impacting pH.
Perform regular KH testing to ensure accurate levels.
Standard dosing raises Potassium by 28mg/L.
 

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Just do your own stoichiometry you will get more accurate levels. There is a guy on YT that will show you how. It makes the hobby more interesting and you won't have any discrepancies in your concentrations or levels. All companies and "experts" like to round either to the nearest 10,1,.1,.01. Seachem loves to round up to the nearest value of 10 so really the levels are way off IMO. Just stay under the solubility max of the compound or element with the highest molar mass. If the solubility is 60g/100ml at 70 degrees F you want the total amount of your combined compounds to be below this total. Say 45g/100ml as a combined total and you should be fine. As long as you are getting the levels you desire from each compound. Really to be 100% accurate you would have to do some algebra and set up a system of equations for 3 variables to find the exact ratio of each compound needed to equal 45g/100ml because their weights are not all the same. In this aspect it is probably simpler to just use an already made calculator like the PPS-Pro calculator. But for single compounds I still think it is best and more fun to do it on your own.
Here is a recent label I made for a buffer, It has way higher concentrations than any retail aquarium fertilizer and it will last me for ages.
Spent $7.00 on 1lb of KHCO3 and $2.00 on a glass amber 1L bottle.

ADU REGULATOR
Potassium Bicarbonate KHCO3
1125ml 21% per volume
Dose 10ml per 10 gallons (38L) of aquarium water (as needed).
This dose raises carbonate hardness by 2.5dKH.
2.5dKH=45mg/L. Plants prefer (2-5dKH) levels.
For unbuffered water or non CO2 injected aquariums
use ½ dose (as needed) to avoid impacting pH.
Perform regular KH testing to ensure accurate levels.
Standard dosing raises Potassium by 28mg/L.

Happen to have a link to the YT video for mixing dry ferts?
 

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I mix enough dry ferts for 1 week supply for all my tanks, making 2 bottles. One for macros, one for micros.

I add enough water so that I am dosing at the rate of 1ml of ferts for every 3 gallons of tank volume.

I have changed the recipe from EI to what works for me.

I do not think I could dissolve much more into the water. When I mix it, I add some warm water to help dissolve it, then shake it every time before I use it.
 
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