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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Maybe I shouldn't, as I do not seem to have any water clarity issues. However I see people swear by this. So I figure why not right?

Well I was doing some reading and found a post someplace else from Seachem that says if you use various water treatments, it renders the Purigen unregenerable.

Is there any truth to this? Are other using Purigen not using water treatments? I use tap water so I have been using water treatments.
 

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I've been using Purigen for years, and have never heard of the Seachem caution that "various water treatments" renders the Purigen unregenerable, and I have no idea what this could possibly mean.
Seachem's Purigen directions state that the regeneration method is to soak the Purigen bags in a solution of 50/50 household bleach & water, although I have also used straight bleach many times, but for shorter periods than 24 hours.
Only bleach will remove the impurities adsorbed by the Purigen, make it near white like new again, and ready for further use.
No amount or type, or combinations of water reatments alone, to my knowledge, will remove the collected impurities, so it follows that it will not be useful to use again.

I generally soak the Purigen bags in tapwater and bleach, and once the Purigen is cleaned up of impurities, I rinse well several times with fresh tapwater using a chlorine removing conditioner (Prime) and re-use the regenerated bag(s). Works well and I've never had a problem with that for over 5 years.
And I find it still does the job well even after up to 10 or 12 regenerations.
 

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I've never heard that either. I've been using Purigen with Matrix for a year now and it's great stuff. My water clarity is awesome and my plants have noticeably grown faster since I've started using them.

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I switched over to purigen and matrix in my ac 110 hob about 2 months ago, about the same time I ripped out the gravel for sand. I also switched out my API stress coat for seachem stability. I added a power head for flow too. Not sure if it was the purigen, but levels immediately plummeted. I do a 20% wc weekly and the nitrates generally rise in between wc. For a few weeks they dropped daily and the wc dropped em even further. My tank is easily twice as clear with half the maintenance. I keep the carbon to get out the medicines but the sea chem stuff works. My tank is very close to a window and I see very little algae anymore. Just my opinion, but I will continue using it.


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So to just close the loop on this, does anyone know what conditioners contain amines? I'm guessing it the stress-coat type products?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I assume it's in regards to this thread on Seachems forums:

http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/showthread.php?t=196
Actually, that wasn't it but that is another concern, thanks for pointing that out. Let me find the other thread I found on another forum. Supposedly the response is directly back from Seachem, but basically said if you use water conditioners (sorry for the incorrect use of terms earlier) that it will bind to the Purigen and you can't regenerate it.

These weren't the threads but it was the same place:
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/seachem/89082-stress-coat-toxic.html
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...-api-stress-coat-conflicting-information.html

Basically, should I be concerned and should I just change to Seachem for water conditioner?
 

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Prime is much cheaper over the long haul compared to amount needed to treat same volume of water with other conditioner's.
1ml of prime treat's 10 gal.
Takes about three times this much of nearly all other conditioner's to treat same ten gal.
 

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If you use Prime as a conditioner, it not only deals with chlorine & chloramines, but it also neutralizes the toxicity of ammonia & nitrites, not to mention it's economy because less of it is needed to do the job than other conditioners.
I just use a couple of drops of it in the final rinse water after the Purigen bag has been re-generated & rinsed several times to free it of residual bleach.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Prime is much cheaper over the long haul compared to amount needed to treat same volume of water with other conditioner's.
1ml of prime treat's 10 gal.
Takes about three times this much of nearly all other conditioner's to treat same ten gal.
That is great to know, and I think I will switch as well. I was using Aquoen stuff, and then decided to try Nutrafin and the Nutrafin stuff needs way more than any I have ever used before.

Speaking of the topic, are slime coat products typically needed?
 

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You may be thinking of the "aloe" content of Stress-Coat.

Fwiw, I agree, it's not necessary.

If you really want to go cheap, Safe is really the "dry edition" of Prime. Prime, is simply the "pour and go" edition of Safe. The cost difference is actually startling.
 

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Doesn't prime contain a slime coat?
While the Seachem Prime containers do state it has some beneficial effect on promoting slime coating, this feature is at the bottom of the list of its remedial effects, and one can readily surmise that it's not a significant element in the formula.
Generally speaking, it's quite rare that aquatic fishes' conditions call for treating with a slime coat enhancer.
Waste of money.
 

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Prime is much cheaper over the long haul compared to amount needed to treat same volume of water with other conditioner's.
1ml of prime treat's 10 gal.
Takes about three times this much of nearly all other conditioner's to treat same ten gal.
I find API cheaper than prime. It only does chlorine and SeaChem told me it's safe to use with Purigen. 1ml of API treats 20 gal. Prime will neutralize nitrates. You may not want to neutralize all your nitrates.


I switched from Prime to Safe, same company, cheaper for long haul
Safe is the dry version of Prime. Exact same product. It is much cheaper but you have to mix it yourself (not too hard).
 
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