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Looking for R.O. filter feedback

817 3
Really wanted to attempt to breed a few fish, (tetra) and with my hard water
I almost should not keep them,, so Looking into an R.O. filter.
I have a water softener, and from searching the fourm the softener will extend the membrain life

{A},,, thinking that bigger is better,
{B},,, how long it takes to make the R.O. water really won't matter.
{C},,, is the additional D.I. filter of anny use or will the R.O. be fine
{D},,, annything to stay away from?

Has annyone used this store on E bay

this filter is 110 gpd ,,, seems cheep for 110 gpd 4th stage: TFC-100/TFM-100

These units seem verry inexpensive compared to other RO/DI filters such as

Maxxima RO/DI Units
Pinnacle Series RO Units
Coralife Pure-Flo II RO Units
Kent Marine Hi-S RO Unit
Kent Marine 100 GPD RO System - Blue
SpectraPure CSP 90 GPD RO System
Captive Purity 75 GPD Deluxe RO Filter
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112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The Typhoon looks very complete.
So, how do those R.O. filters work? I see there is a drain / back flush line, do you back flush every once and a while, or does it do that while the unit is making R.O. water?

So what is the scoop on the D.I. filter?

do you still need to add something to dechlorinate the R.O. water?

375 Posts
They work the same way as an RO unit.... The back flush is to help clean the RO filter to prolong its use.

It is a manual back flush. The DI section produces 99.9999% pure water. You will not need to dechlorinate the DI output.

Most RO units, depends highly upon the RO membrane. The higher the rejection rate of the RO membrane, the more waste there is.

Just to give you an example. My water is approx 312ppm of crap straight from the tap. After the pre-filter, 2 carbon blocks, and then finally through the RO membrane, my TDS is approx 28-34ppm. (Depends on when the last time I calibrated my TDS meter).

The water after the DI section the TDS is 0. When the DI section starts to deplete, the TDS will "creep" up until its completely exhausted. The nice thing about DI water, is the PH is usually around 5.2... GH 0, KH 0.

You will have to "condition" the water to make it safe for the fish to swim in. Some use chemicals such as baking soda and epsom salts. Some use Seachem or Kent products. Still even, some do a mixture of the RO out put with the DI output to get the levels they want.

Oh, and if you ever decide to venture over to the dark side, your reef tank will love you for having DI!
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