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I think I might have some limnophila aromatica as well as well but I can't really work out if this is actually sold under a wrong labelling. How did you managed to get those compact internodes? Mine looks leggy....



sorry for the green spot algae on the glass. I've got 48w of T5HO over a 15 gallon tank with CO2 injection at 2 bps. Fertilisation wise I just feed the fish heavily and top it up with liquid fertiliser for trace. Is this limnophila aromatica or is it pogostemon stellatus or pogostemon yatabeanus?
 

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I think I might have some limnophila aromatica as well as well but I can't really work out if this is actually sold under a wrong labelling. How did you managed to get those compact internodes? Mine looks leggy....



sorry for the green spot algae on the glass. I've got 48w of T5HO over a 15 gallon tank with CO2 injection at 2 bps. Fertilisation wise I just feed the fish heavily and top it up with liquid fertiliser for trace. Is this limnophila aromatica or is it pogostemon stellatus or pogostemon yatabeanus?
yours looks like its in the emersed form, just let it grow in your tank for a while and the top part will change form to submerged, then cut off the top and replant the top

that's what happened to myself
 

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The leaves are starting to melt off the bottom of mine. Any ideals what would cause this?
 

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that is normal for the plant if the bottom leaves are not receiving enough light....
 

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that is normal for the plant if the bottom leaves are not receiving enough light....
Ok. So too many stems in one area? Maybe remove a few or spread them out more? How far apart do you think they should be spaced?

Sorry about all the questions. Thanks for your help.
 

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how big is your tank and how much light do you have on it?

Spreading them out may help, but it depends on what you want to do with your stems. If you want a nice grouping forming a bush and the tops are doing well, you may just want to have a midground plant in from of it to hide the lower portions that are shedding leaves.
 

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yours looks like its in the emersed form, just let it grow in your tank for a while and the top part will change form to submerged, then cut off the top and replant the top

that's what happened to myself
Mine has been growing in my tank for over 6 months and it's pretty much the same. 96w of lighting over 16 gallon tank with Ei fertilisation and CO2 injection. I so wished I'm in the states and I can get some of the nice plant you guys have there. I've bought 3 portion of plants from different seller namely eqaqua, tropica, and aquaspot and they all turn out to be the same. It just won't grow compact for some reason and they won't turn red... :(
 

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Not really the case. Limnophila tends to lose its deep reddish color when you dose Nitrates too much. By saying too much I mean normal EI type dosing will wash out the color. Low Nitrates make for deeper reds.
Oh really?



Seems pretty purple red to me:thumbsup:
They are also very red compared to what George and Steve have at AF, I've given them some of my plants, they had not seem it that large or purple before.

The tank is EI dosed and has been for 3+ years and there's a large fish load and feeding rate.

Light is about 300 micro mols at the tips of these plants.

So if what you claim is true, how is it that my plants are so red/purple?
Stems are almost dime sized.
It's a very aggressive weed in my tanks.

And the same is true for L pantanal, L cuba etc.
Lowering NO3 can increase red, I was the one that put forth that idea to begin with:thumbsup:
However, it is not the only determinant. Good higher GH's, good continuous conditions, good CO2, light type etc can help a lot.

If you can, try the 9235K bulbs, this tank does not have them above(6700s and 6500's).

Guy at Albany Aquarium tries to keep his NO3 really low and the plants are small, stunted and bronze more than red or purple.



Regards,
Tom Barr
 

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I don't dose any KNO3. I dose plenty of KH2PO4 and lots of Iron in my 10 gallon.

My L aromatica:

By changing the hue a tad, adding a bit more brightness and photoshop:



Which looks just like Guy's bronzed NO3 limited small plants at Albany.

Example: I'll show you my plants with a little Photoshop:


Looks a lot different doesn't it?
I've yet to see L aromatica quite that red in person, but it is pretty nonetheless.

What we see on line is NOT the same as we see in person and in reality.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

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Oh man mines was like Tom's with that beautiful pink red color. But I started to dose N but it became more green. I'm starting to think its true. But I know the guy who I got it from does full EI and was still pink. So I know I did something wrong.

I have about 4.2 wpg should I move it where it recieves even more light?
 

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It'll stay nice and green in lower light areas and it'll get bigger generally.

If I put it under a MH, it's a weird red/purple, i lik ethe CP's effect on the plant personally though.

That pic is with normal high NO3 dosing, about 30ppm or so per week.
That does not include a sizable bioload.

Try more traces, PO4 and higher GH's.
You can lower NO3 as well, but make sure that the other parameters are non limiting first, then proceed.

You will learn more and be better able to isolate variables and not have confounding effects.

Otherwise, you are not fairly judging the effects and not doing a manipulative test.

Think about it like this:

More rain fall occurs up a mountain, but as you go up, the temp is also lower.
You might conclude that more plant growth occurs since there's more rain.

However, if you go to measure the plant growth up the mountain at different rain fall locations, you find that the plant growth is the same.

How might you test that the plant growth is due to temp or rain?

You'd have to manipulate the sites, adding water to the lower water lower elevation sites on the mountain, and place temp controlled chambers that allow rain in for the other sites.

Most plants grow faster at warmer temps.
Most plants that are under some water stress grow better with less water stress.

But if you measured just the mountain and only observed there, and never bothered to do any manipulations, you'd never see nor know this.
The mountain is very similar to most folk's tanks.

You can easily think it's one thing, and not doing a careful test, assume it's something else.

And you cannot measure light (at least I've yet to meet an aquatic plant grower who uses a light meter measuring PAR to date).
So these are issues.
Then there's the issue of photo's and reality, photoshopping, even your computer screen settings etc, perceptions etc.

Another question: is redder better? Does it mean better health? More biomass? More efficient growth?
Why not chose a nice red plant rather than ones that are color variable?
Bulb choice can also alter perceptions as well.
9235K vs a 5000K etc.


Regards,
Tom Barr
 

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It's interesting on my local forum, some people are saying that there is a green variety and I might have it (mine are all green in one tank, but only slightly purple at the tips in another). I actually have another thread on this and no one seemed to have a consensus on why that is. Guesses were too much nitrate, not enough iron, not enough light, wrong temperature bulb etc. I plan on experimenting with a number of parameters to see if it makes a difference.
 

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Check this out. ;)

It's interesting on my local forum, some people are saying that there is a green variety and I might have it (mine are all green in one tank, but only slightly purple at the tips in another). I actually have another thread on this and no one seemed to have a consensus on why that is. Guesses were too much nitrate, not enough iron, not enough light, wrong temperature bulb etc. I plan on experimenting with a number of parameters to see if it makes a difference.
 

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Very interesting thread. I have very similar results to what you found. One set is all green while the other set has purple highlights in the top half of the plant and pinkish underleaf.

However, here's the catch. The ones in the 15 gallon with the pinkish tips are cuttings from the 20H that I started with. I guess it must like somet combination.

Here are the parameters in both tanks:

20H:
Florabase
Pressurized CO2
EI (dry ferts one day, Flourish and Flourish Iron alternate day)
65W Coralife PC (10000K bulb)

15 Gallon long:
EcoComplete
Excel
EI (dry ferts one day, Flourish and Flourish Iron alternate day)
42 watts T5 Coralife (1 is Colormax the other is 6700K I believe)

Both have the same footprint, except the 20 H is much taller of course.
 
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