Lighting advice for low tech 92 gallon corner tank

2944 Views 23 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Poseydear, Mar 15, 2017

Bunsen Honeydew

Discussion Starter · Feb 21, 2017 (Edited by Moderator)

I recently got back into the hobby and am setting up my first tank in 9 years. I would like to have some plants, but do not want to get overly involved with ferts and CO2 right now. The tank is a 92 gallon corner tank, and is about 24 inches tall. I used to just pack as many CFLs into a DIY hood as I could before, but would probably like a more sophisticated look now. Leaning towards LEDs.

Thanks.

Would something like this be suitable?

https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-65...&keywords=aquarium+light+plant+6500k+pen&th=1

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

Veritas

· #2 · Feb 22, 2017

I used to own a 92g Corner. It is a tough tank to properly light.

What kind of plants are you aiming for?

The hardest part about lighting a corner tank is, well - the side corners where the plastic pieces/braces are. It leaves around a 36 inch (I believe) opening, but the corners will be dark.

If I did it all over again (I no longer have the tank) I would have used two Kessil lights - one for the front - and one for the rear corner. Those are super pricey - but would have accomplished what I was going for.

A good "starting" pair of fixtures would be one 36" Finnex Planted+ (or 24/7 SE) and one 24" Planted+ (or SE). I got good growth out of mine with those.

you can check out my old tank journal too.

Bunsen Honeydew

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 22, 2017

Veritas said:
I used to own a 92g Corner. It is a tough tank to properly light.

What kind of plants are you aiming for?

The hardest part about lighting a corner tank is, well - the side corners where the plastic pieces/braces are. It leaves around a 36 inch (I believe) opening, but the corners will be dark.

If I did it all over again (I no longer have the tank) I would have used two Kessil lights - one for the front - and one for the rear corner. Those are super pricey - but would have accomplished what I was going for.

A good "starting" pair of fixtures would be one 36" Finnex Planted+ (or 24/7 SE) and one 24" Planted+ (or SE). I got good growth out of mine with those.

you can check out my old tank journal too.

I am going low tech with low to med light plants. I really like planted tanks, but don't have a ton of time for maintenance.

Veritas

· #4 · Feb 22, 2017

Bunsen Honeydew said:
I am going low tech with low to med light plants. I really like planted tanks, but don't have a ton of time for maintenance.

I would definitely go with a 36 and 24 inch Planted+ then. The larger one should fit between the front corner braces - and the smaller one can provide lighting for the rear of the tank. I had a similar setup with mine - but went High-Tech later by adding an additional fixture.

Bunsen Honeydew

Discussion Starter · #5 · Feb 22, 2017

Veritas said:
I would definitely go with a 36 and 24 inch Planted+ then. The larger one should fit between the front corner braces - and the smaller one can provide lighting for the rear of the tank. I had a similar setup with mine - but went High-Tech later by adding an additional fixture.

Is there a significant enough of a difference between the Planted+ and the Beamswork DA 6500K that I linked above? Enough to justify the difference in cost? I may start with a 36" and add a 24" later, since I haven't even cycled yet and have some time.

Veritas

· #6 · Feb 22, 2017

Bunsen Honeydew said:
Is there a significant enough of a difference between the Planted+ and the Beamswork DA 6500K that I linked above? Enough to justify the difference in cost? I may start with a 36" and add a 24" later, since I haven't even cycled yet and have some time.

I've never used Beamswork - so I can't comment on them. Some people around here like them - but I didn't want to recommend something I haven't used before.

Reactions: 1

Bunsen Honeydew

Discussion Starter · #7 · Feb 22, 2017

Veritas said:
I've never used Beamswork - so I can't comment on them. Some people around here like them - but I didn't want to recommend something I haven't used before.

Fair enough. Thanks!

jeffkrol

· #8 · Feb 22, 2017 (Edited)

2

1 beamswork for the back.. One Finnex stingray for the front..

Fugeray is planted plus. Stingray will be lower PAR..:

Planted plus has more red pop.. Beamswork is fairly crisp white (though some se the 6500k as a bit yellow). Stingray is like the planted plus but weaker..and a different spectrum of red (plant plus red arguably better)
Beamswork is stronger than the planted plus but probably not as much as the above esp. for a larger model 24 plus inches
Another chart.
for the sake of argument consider them equal-ish w/ the pp being more balanced in color thus the reccomendation of BW plus stingray (or pp):

you want fancier w/ timers/dimming ect.. changes the playing field..

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Bunsen Honeydew

Discussion Starter · #9 · Feb 22, 2017

jeffkrol said:
1 beamswork for the back.. One Finnex stingray for the front..

Fugeray is planted plus. Stingray will be lower PAR..:

Planted plus has more red pop.. Beamswork is fairly crisp white (though some se the 6500k as a bit yellow). Stingray is like the planted plus but weaker..and a different spectrum of red (plant plus red arguably better)
Beamswork is stronger than the planted plus but probably not as much as the above esp. for a larger model 24 plus inches
Another chart.
for the sake of argument consider them equal-ish w/ the pp being more balanced in color thus the reccomendation of BW plus stingray (or pp):

you want fancier w/ timers/dimming ect.. changes the playing field..

Thanks for the info. I think that I have even deciphered it correctly.

If I wanted to compare length for length, should I scale by number of lights, or just length?

jeffkrol

· #10 · Feb 22, 2017 (Edited)

longer lights more overlapping light cones..more par in the overlap.
Since really all of this is ballparking just assume an increase.
Finnex Planted+ LED in 36". 68PAr at 18"
20" is (14W) 22PAR
36 is (27W) 68PAR
24" is 18w.. just go 45..
@18"
Center will scale somewhat logarithmic.

minor correction.. Was considering 36" in back not front..
not much different
Beamswork front finnex back..
There are other options.. like the 5 row multicolored Beamswork
Weaker 3 row sibling is EA fspec above..

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Bunsen Honeydew

Discussion Starter · #11 · Feb 22, 2017

jeffkrol said:
longer lights more overlapping light cones..more par in the overlap.
Since really all of this is ballparking just assume an increase.
Finnex Planted+ LED in 36". 68PAr at 18"
20" is (14W) 22PAR
36 is (27W) 68PAR
24" is 18w.. just go 45..
@18"
Center will scale somewhat logarithmic.

So looking at those numbers, the difference would mostly be in the distribution of the spectrum, not PAR? The planted plus at 36" is 68 PAR at 18", whereas the Beamworks 30" is 60 PAR at 18". For a low tech tank and casual hobbyist, does the difference in spectral distribution justify doubling the cost?

Not trying to be cheap, just trying to balance not wasting money by spending on more than I need vs wasting money on buying crap equipment that doesn't provide value. Trying to find that sweet spot (and learning a bit along the way).

Freemananana

· #12 · Feb 22, 2017

Bunsen Honeydew said:
For a low tech tank and casual hobbyist, does the difference in spectral distribution justify doubling the cost?

No.

Not for me at least. I'm obviously an outlier amongst this forum though. I have used 5000K spiral CFLs in the past with great results and went with the beamswork pent LED on my new tank. I see no reason to spend the extra cash for a low tech setup where you won't have any red plants anyway that would visually benefit from the spectrum difference. The 6500K is great and I've even had success with their 10000K lights. I'd shoot for 30 par out of the lights and you'll have a hot spot where they overlap. I think 24" is fine, you may even find it to be a lot of light depending on your plant growth. A few floaters will help with that.

Reactions: 1

Bunsen Honeydew

Discussion Starter · #13 · Feb 22, 2017

Freemananana said:
No.

Not for me at least. I'm obviously an outlier amongst this forum though. I have used 5000K spiral CFLs in the past with great results and went with the beamswork pent LED on my new tank. I see no reason to spend the extra cash for a low tech setup where you won't have any red plants anyway that would visually benefit from the spectrum difference. The 6500K is great and I've even had success with their 10000K lights. I'd shoot for 30 par out of the lights and you'll have a hot spot where they overlap. I think 24" is fine, you may even find it to be a lot of light depending on your plant growth. A few floaters will help with that.

Thanks, I appreciate the input. I have had past success (easy plants grow) with just old school T8s or a DIY hood with as many CFLs as I could fit into it.

Reactions: 1

Kubla

· #14 · Feb 23, 2017

jeffkrol said:
1 beamswork for the back.. One Finnex stingray for the front..

Fugeray is planted plus. Stingray will be lower PAR..:

Planted plus has more red pop.. Beamswork is fairly crisp white (though some se the 6500k as a bit yellow). Stingray is like the planted plus but weaker..and a different spectrum of red (plant plus red arguably better)
Beamswork is stronger than the planted plus but probably not as much as the above esp. for a larger model 24 plus inches
Another chart.
for the sake of argument consider them equal-ish w/ the pp being more balanced in color thus the reccomendation of BW plus stingray (or pp):

you want fancier w/ timers/dimming ect.. changes the playing field..

A Stingray on a 24" deep tank? Is that really going to be enough light for anything? I have the same tank which I'm using 2 Beamswork and 1 fluorescent fixture. I'm using the EVO Green Element fixtures but those might be more light than you're looking for. I like them because I can get them 6" or so off the water and still get some light to my substrate. I'm not thrilled with the visual color of the spectrum, but I get decent growth with most of the medium light plants. I own a sheetmetal shop so I mad a custom hood that's about 12" tall. That gives me the opportunity to hide a lot of ugliness with fixtures and hangers. (And it's ugly under there!) I think with a deep tank you're better off going stronger lights mounted higher up for a more even par through the entire depth. I've been looking at angling some lights to get the corners better, but I've got both of them filled from top to bottom with anubius, (zip ties and suction cups) and they work really well there. I move my anubius a lot and sometimes I have driftwood in the corner with anubius nana.

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jeffkrol

· #15 · Feb 23, 2017

I would like to have some plants, but do not want to get overly involved with ferts and CO2

A Stingray on a 24" deep tank? Is that really going to be enough light for anything?

Just for color in the front of the tank..It's questionable..

cost and power wise all 5 row beamsworks would be better..

I think with a deep tank you're better off going stronger lights mounted higher up for a more even par through the entire depth. I've been looking at angling some lights to get the corners better,

Certainly a good workable option..
you can substitute lensd depth penetration (within reason) w/ a large amount of smaller diodes..
It is "only" 24"...

Beamswork needs to "up" the quality on their 3W emitter units soon...
going $200 plus for lighting many alternates pop up..
One 36" Quad.. w/ possibly popping the lenses off the back row..raised till it is visually filling is another..
Hard thing about suggestions.. too many choices and both technical and personal variables..

One of the new Radions may even suffice.. but suspect the cost is $400-ish..

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Dragonfish

· #16 · Feb 23, 2017

Just to throw this into the mix, get an old 150w HQI metal halide in 6500K. It will be dirt cheap and look fantastic.

Bunsen Honeydew

Discussion Starter · #17 · Feb 23, 2017

Thanks again for the info everybody. I am leaning toward the Beamswork pent in 36" for now. I can always supplement later.

The guy that sold me the tank offered a metal halide light (he used it as a frag tank), but I declined because of the heat generated. I have 3 small kids at home, so LEDs sound safer.

Bunsen Honeydew

Discussion Starter · #18 · Mar 6, 2017

I got my BW light and am pleased with it. One question that I have (though probably silly) is there any advantage/disadvantage to raising the lights on the supplied legs? I have a glass lid, and the light has a little edge that lets it sit about 1/4" or so above the glass. Is it just better coverage that is the advantage?

jeffkrol

· #19 · Mar 6, 2017

Bunsen Honeydew said:
I got my BW light and am pleased with it. One question that I have (though probably silly) is there any advantage/disadvantage to raising the lights on the supplied legs? I have a glass lid, and the light has a little edge that lets it sit about 1/4" or so above the glass. Is it just better coverage that is the advantage?

Yea normally w/ rect. tanks it is just to get better front/back coverage..

Bunsen Honeydew

Discussion Starter · #20 · Mar 6, 2017

jeffkrol said:
Yea normally w/ rect. tanks it is just to get better front/back coverage..

Thanks, I thought as much. I think that they look better lower on the tank. I suppose I could build/buy a hood for it too.

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