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Update with huge success!

But first another possible dissapointment. I ordered a burple light so I could do some color mixing once I get my 4 light test rig up and running. I bought a light that advertises itself as an 27W bulb. It seemed to have the right stuff, but when I put it to the test its clear that this 27W is almost certainly not accurate. My guess is that it's closer to 8 or 9 Watts.

This is the bulb I purchased.

At 18" directly under the bulb I registered 20 PPFD.
At 3' directly under the bulb I registered 7 PPFD.
At 4' directly under the bulb I registered 3 PPFD.

Ahh but that brings us to the success. @SpringHalo was spot on with his information!. I got in my new COB chips (I ordered 2 incase I messed one up) and installed one into my Night Chaser. Taking it apart was not an issue. I am worthless when it comes to figuring out things like volt meters or ohms. But I can tell what side of the soldering iron is hot. I actually did not have any thermopaste on hand but I was able to literally scrape off what was on the old chip and slather it on the new one. Still if it fails in a day/week/year I know where the blame lies ;P

Here is a picture of the inside of a light bulb:



And here are both bulbs I tested next to each other... for completeness mostly ;P



I wasted no time in putting the newly made bulb to the test.

At 18" directly under the bulb I registered a whopping 290 PPFD! At 1 foot removed I registered 42 PPFD.
At 3' directly under the bulb I registered 80 PPFD, at 1 foot removed I registered 53 PPFD.
At 4' Directly under the bulb I registered 52 PPFD, at 1 foot removed I registered 41 PPFD.

This is awesome for a 95 CRI light. Its also one of the cheaper options. The night chaser light goes for around 17 dollars. The chip goes for 7 dollars and the shipping was another 9 dollars. But the shipping price is the same for any reasonably amount of chips (they send them in a GIANT box for the size of the chip). So at 35 dollars for 1 bulb, and less for multiples this is a very nice deal. I may just use modified night chasers as my only lighting solution for my future 120 gallon tank. But I still want to try mixing up the bulbs I already own to see how they change the depth of colors and ppfd at substrate.

funny what a 40 degree lens can do.............:)
 

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,,,,,but then... where is the fun that :wink2:

Agreed.. :)
Anyways, that's one heck of a lens on that thing..

Oh.. in case you want to dim..
The lamp is compatible with Lutron Dimmers. Series: Maestro
Item #MACL-153M
Item # PD-6WCL
If like most it won't "dim to zero"..more like 10% then off..
 

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Update with huge success!

But first another possible dissapointment. I ordered a burple light so I could do some color mixing once I get my 4 light test rig up and running. I bought a light that advertises itself as an 27W bulb. It seemed to have the right stuff, but when I put it to the test its clear that this 27W is almost certainly not accurate. My guess is that it's closer to 8 or 9 Watts.

This is the bulb I purchased.

At 18" directly under the bulb I registered 20 PPFD.
At 3' directly under the bulb I registered 7 PPFD.
At 4' directly under the bulb I registered 3 PPFD.

Ahh but that brings us to the success. @SpringHalo was spot on with his information!. I got in my new COB chips (I ordered 2 incase I messed one up) and installed one into my Night Chaser. Taking it apart was not an issue. I am worthless when it comes to figuring out things like volt meters or ohms. But I can tell what side of the soldering iron is hot. I actually did not have any thermopaste on hand but I was able to literally scrape off what was on the old chip and slather it on the new one. Still if it fails in a day/week/year I know where the blame lies ;P
.
Just a note for next time, anti-sieze compound works every bit as good as thermopaste.




I have used it for CPU processor heatsinks and works great. Just redid one on an old laptop that was shutting down due to the fan not working and overheating. Stupid fan was part of the heat sink :frown2:. Whats better is its available at every auto parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So the whole thing has been solved but I ordered a bulb before the solution and it just came in. I tested it and the results are worth sharing so without further ado: The last bulb!



The last bulb is called a PAR30 LED Flood Light. This bulb has optics limiting it to a beam angle of just 25 degrees. It also has a fan and is a pretty small bulb. Not much bigger then a regular A19 bulb.

Anyway screwing it in I was impressed with its brightness and the low sound of the fan. Its definitely noticeable but its not super loud or rickety sounding.. it sounds smooth if that makes sense.

When I put it to the test.. well the results were impressive.

At 18 inches directly under the light I detected an insane 700 PPFD! At 1 foot removed I detected 25 PPFD.
At 3' directly under the light I detected 160 PPFD. At 1 foot removed I detected 35 PPFD.
At 4' directly under the light I detected 100 PPFD. At 1 foot removed I detected 40 PPFD.

These results are VERY impressive, essentially double the brightness levels of my previous best bulb. I don't think I will use it in my final build simply because I prefer to go without a fan if I can help it. But if I find myself needing the extra boost to light levels... well I know where to go!
 

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When I put it to the test.. well the results were impressive.

At 18 inches directly under the light I detected an insane 700 PPFD! At 1 foot removed I detected 25 PPFD.
At 3' directly under the light I detected 160 PPFD. At 1 foot removed I detected 35 PPFD.
At 4' directly under the light I detected 100 PPFD. At 1 foot removed I detected 40 PPFD.

These results are VERY impressive, essentially double the brightness levels of my previous best bulb. I don't think I will use it in my final build simply because I prefer to go without a fan if I can help it. But if I find myself needing the extra boost to light levels... well I know where to go!

https://store.marinebeam.com/beam-angle-calculator-1/
Spot size is 21" approx at 48"
 

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Anyway, one thing I have been wondering for a while is whether I can use regular light bulbs to give me high light levels in a high tech tank. The reasoning for this is that am planning to go DIY for lighting but I also want the final result to look good. The tank I want to use this on will be in the living room/entry to my house and thus will be one of the first things anyone coming to my home will see. If I can use regular lighting fixtures / chandeliers the amount of effort and skill required to DIY something that looks GOOD dramatically lowers. For aesthetics these light bulbs would be 3 to 4 feet above substrate. That means 1 to 2 feet of air and 2 feet of water.

Sure.. Track lighting is prob. the best and from cheap to uber expensive.
You could go 2' to 10' off the water line w/ the right lens/bulb combinations..
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Anyway, one thing I have been wondering for a while is whether I can use regular light bulbs to give me high light levels in a high tech tank. The reasoning for this is that am planning to go DIY for lighting but I also want the final result to look good. The tank I want to use this on will be in the living room/entry to my house and thus will be one of the first things anyone coming to my home will see. If I can use regular lighting fixtures / chandeliers the amount of effort and skill required to DIY something that looks GOOD dramatically lowers. For aesthetics these light bulbs would be 3 to 4 feet above substrate. That means 1 to 2 feet of air and 2 feet of water.
This is the same reason and circumstances for this thread. So ya, anything over 50ppfd at substrate is going to work for you.
 

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This is not a bad idea! I very well may do this. For a while now I have been wondering if there was some kind of kit I could buy where the base is a lightbulb and then add my own parts to it. I haven't found it, but it looks pretty easy to take off that chip and replace it. I would need to be very very careful to make sure I replaced it with something that used the same specs of course. This is the main issue to overcome as I would need to figure out what the driver is supporting.

Anyway Update:



I got in my Raya Photography bulb and it was sadly another disappointment. This one was my best hope for a high cri bulb powerful enough to put down enough ppfd to make this work without mixing spectrums etc. No such luck. The Here are the results:

At 18" directly under the bulb I detected 75 ppfd. At 1 foot off center I detected 45 ppfd.
At 3' directly under the bulb I detected 25 ppfd. At 1 foot off center I detected 20 ppfd.
At 4' directly under the bulb I detected 15 ppfd. At 1 foot off center I detected 14 ppfd.

This bulb allowed for the diffuser to be removed fairly easily and I did take it off. I got around 10 extra ppfd at the 18" mark but less at the other differences. To lose that bit of water resistance is probably not worth it.

I should know better then to doubt Jeffkrol on anything lighting related but I do like to experiment. Oh well it was very informative for me.

Thus what Jeffkrol told me several days ago is correct, I need to consider only lights with 40
degree lenses/reflectors, anything else will spread the light myloweslife too much for this to work.

I still have not gotten my SATCO bulb in, I suspect they haven't even shipped it yet. Possibly the place I ordered it from is not currently open due to the virus. I think I will try to cancel that order and get the other bulb Jeffkrol found.
Its pretty cool and awesome.
 

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PAR stands for Photosynthetic Active Radiation. What does that mean? Well, let's break it down: In scientific terms, light has properties of both photons and waves and in the spectrum of visible light. The usable light that plants can absorb is used for photosynthesis. In simple terms: grow lights (that mimic the light of the sun) gives off tons of wavelengths (colors) of light when it shines. However, plants will only absorb some of those wavelengths and use them to eat.

shareit pc installvidmate.com Vidmate APK
 

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I’d be interested in seeing a PPFD test for the bulb I bought on Amazon, because there’s zero information out there and PPFD meters are expensive. It’s a Canagrow 35W daylight-like LED bulb. The graphics on the product listing show an array on values but using a lux meter I’ve found that the centre of the beam is over three times as bright as the outer edges. I ended up making a diffuser for it so I don’t burn my plant but now I’m wondering what the new umol values would be. Too bad nobody’s done any real testing on this bulb.
avast driver jiofi.local.html
 

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I’d be interested in seeing a PPFD test for the bulb I bought on Amazon, because there’s zero information out there and PPFD meters are expensive. It’s a Canagrow 35W daylight-like LED bulb. The graphics on the product listing show an array on values but using a lux meter I’ve found that the centre of the beam is over three times as bright as the outer edges. I ended up making a diffuser for it so I don’t burn my plant but now I’m wondering what the new umol values would be. Too bad nobody’s done any real testing on this bulb.
Ok that light gives oar readings most likely in the center ( this type of light will always hotspot more than panel types)
Measure highest lux at 12" .
Their par measurement is 1045.
This will crudely calibrate your lux meter.
Should be around 65000 lux.

18" 450 par or 28060 lux.

Bare bulb, no diffuser btw.
 

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have been searching for this type of information for weeks now ,i will look into getting some equipment myself and running some tests i heard you can use a volt meter with those sensors to make a cheaper option ,very impressed with what was accomplished with the 14w led would love to see a video on best performance you can achieve with varying shades or focal lenses and perhaps even spectrums if you were interested or if you havnt already done one shareit vidmate
 

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have been searching for this type of information for weeks now ,i will look into getting some equipment myself and running some tests i heard you can use a volt meter with those sensors to make a cheaper option ,very impressed with what was accomplished with the 14w led would love to see a video on best performance you can achieve with varying shades or focal lenses and perhaps even spectrums if you were interested or if you havnt already done one
With the new Apogee sensor you can't use a VOM directly. Signal is too low.
May be a version but ???.
...


Dud find a deal in the usb one.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I think apogee used to sell just the sensor with a bare wire connection that was supposed to be a replacement for broken sensors on their hand held units. It was something like 120 dollars (from memory) and thus paired with a cheap multimeter was the cheapest way by some 10s of dollars to get a par meter. To my knowledge that sensor package is no longer sold. You can still buy the same sensor I own (the SQ-420) for 220 dollars and it has a usb connector which works with any windows laptop. It sadly does not seem to work with the apogee app for my phone (a huge oversight in my opinion ;P )

However the lux meter and divide by 80 trick also works pretty well for something that is literally free to anyone with a smart phone. Sooooo yeah I'd just suggest doing that to get rough approximation of ppfd.
 

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I've been using 1500 & 1600 Lumen, 5000K, 15W, LED Bulbs with the diffuser cut off. I have been saving money and seeing good results. The Bulbs are some generic brand, Generic Eagle and some are the GE, LED bright stik bulbs. Electricity bills lower, they last a long time. Been running now for at least 2 years without a replacement.
 
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