The Planted Tank Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,557 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This might be better asked in DIY but I thought I'd try here in lighting..

Has anyone ever tried adding little bumps of clear silicone to individual LEDs to focus the light spread from 120 degrees to closer to 90 degrees? I have a pair of Current Satellite Freshwater LED+ and the spread is too wide for the tank I want to use them on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,078 Posts
This might be better asked in DIY but I thought I'd try here in lighting..

Has anyone ever tried adding little bumps of clear silicone to individual LEDs to focus the light spread from 120 degrees to closer to 90 degrees? I have a pair of Current Satellite Freshwater LED+ and the spread is too wide for the tank I want to use them on.
Example only since no idea of your leds "shape"

.... ok peaked. Look to ve standard 5x5mm chips
Looks to be a lot of resistors ect in the way
Oddly seem to only gave 30 and 60 degrees.
They do make them.
Expensive example:

You know where to go
LED Lens Reflector Collimator For 5050 SMD 90 Degree 11x6mm Convex Optical Lens
$1.70+ $2.50 Shipping
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,557 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They're about the size of your basic 5050 foot print SM chip, but the have less intensity in the RGB chips, which I'll probably leave unlensed.

I bought a friend's old custom built stand and 55 gallon TruVu. First big aquarium I've own in 30 years and he threw both of his Current's in because they're not working well with the remote. (That's a topic for another thread..)

I just want to bump up the punch of the 6500K LED's since they're an older style chip with 3 light emitting elements per chip, and the spread is way too wide. I know these are weakling LED's for the state of LED technology but they're the 48" ones and they seem pretty bright on "full spectrum".

Concerning the resistors: If I put an individual "blob" on each chip, I should be able to avoid the resistors.

I have been building my own DIY nano tank lights with LCFOCUS's 4100K sun spectrum 3 watt chips and they come with about a 2mm thick blob of silicone over their lens and they do punch down a fair narrowed beam of light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,078 Posts
They're about the size of your basic 5050 foot print SM chip, but the have less intensity in the RGB chips, which I'll probably leave unlensed.

I bought a friend's old custom built stand and 55 gallon TruVu. First big aquarium I've own in 30 years and he threw both of his Current's in because they're not working well with the remote. (That's a topic for another thread..)

I just want to bump up the punch of the 6500K LED's since they're an older style chip with 3 light emitting elements per chip, and the spread is way too wide. I know these are weakling LED's for the state of LED technology but they're the 48" ones and they seem pretty bright on "full spectrum".
ACTUALLY but with some risks you would be better off tweaking the power supply voltage.

You just apply >12v.
Small voltage increases will yield more output
Or do both lenses are on flea bay.
Meanwell adj power supplies at
Ledsupply .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,557 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ACTUALLY but with some risks you would be better off tweaking the power supply voltage.

You just apply >12v.
Small voltage increases will yield more output
Or do both lenses are on flea bay.
Meanwell adj power supplies at
Ledsupply .
Since both of these are "stuck" at full spectrum, how much further beyond the 12 volt supply can I push them without killing the RGBs? I've been looking at an Amazon voltage adjustable power supply that goes from 9 volts to 24 with a 3 amp overhead. it has the same polarity 5mm plug as the little Current wall wart. The Current power supply seems to run awfully warm. And since it is running quite warm I'm assuming there's a bit of a voltage drop happening I'm not sure how far I want to dig into rebuilding, these as the LED boards are coated in a bit of silicone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,078 Posts
Since both of these are "stuck" at full spectrum, how much further beyond the 12 volt supply can I push them without killing the RGBs? I've been looking at an Amazon voltage adjustable power supply that goes from 9 volts to 24 with a 3 amp overhead. it has the same polarity 5mm plug as the little Current wall wart. The Current power supply seems to run awfully warm. And since it is running quite warm I'm assuming there's a bit of a voltage drop happening I'm not sure how far I want to dig into rebuilding, these as the LED boards are coated in a bit of silicone.
Most designs around these were tailored to "automotive" uses w/ surge voltages past 14V
You would need to slowly increase voltage and monitor heat output to the board.
I prob wouldn't go past 13V.

As to rebuilding.. depends on where the control circuitry is.. Only need to get to the "ends" of the 4 channels. Never really need to mess w/ the entire coated board.
You can wire in a TC-420 or 421 at that point.

ONE catch depends if + is "common" or not. Should be w/ dimmable ones since the MOSFET is usually on the neg side.

Wouldn't matter if you just dim the entire unit and not individual channels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,557 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah I would like to boost the red channel a bit but the reviews on Amazon for the Freshwater LED+ is the red LED's die early. Since they're 2.3 or so volts versus the rest of the LED being around 3.3 something volts. I might build up some LCFOCUS sun spectrum pucks to run as separate spectrum boosters. It's a shame Current added so many goofy dynamic lighting effects in their own controller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,078 Posts
Yeah I would like to boost the red channel a bit but the reviews on Amazon for the Freshwater LED+ is the red LED's die early. Since they're 2.3 or so volts versus the rest of the LED being around 3.3 something volts. I might build up some LCFOCUS sun spectrum pucks to run as separate spectrum boosters. It's a shame Current added so many goofy dynamic lighting effects in their own controller.
Diode voltage doesn't matter that much since the terminal resistor "drops" it for the design.
If the reds are dying easier just means the resistor is too low for the design.

Thing w/ the silicone is the shape is critical and unless you have say a template (mold of one of those plastic ones built) I woudn't even know where to start in "caculating" the shape much less applying it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,557 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I figure that since the lights are free it's a reversible experiment. I'm not shooting for precision just trying to focus the light a little more. I'll try out several on the ends and see how it goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,078 Posts
Well I figure that since the lights are free it's a reversible experiment. I'm not shooting for precision just trying to focus the light a little more. I'll try out several on the ends and see how it goes.
There is always china.. ;)
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top